luhbo

No myth, just pneumatic central lock systems, at least twenty years ago or so.

I think, nobody was talking of using an idle-mixture screw for final TB balancing. Look and you won't find such a screw on these bikes. Opening the bypass screws just gives a little bit more air flow, it's more or less exactly the same as slightly opening the flaps. The main difference here to carbs is the fact, that opening a slider gives a linear increase of flow or duct area. Turning the throttle flap gives a very non linear increase of the flow area. One or two degrees opening are a lot more difference as from 75 to 90. That's also the reason for the very fine solution of map index steps from 1 to 30 degrees compared to that between 30 and 90. In other words, 66% of the TPS signal are used for the first 30 degrees of opening. You need these bypass screws to eliminate tolerances, because these tolerances have such a big effect. Hubert

Understanding a carburettor, not to mention a carb/points combo, is way more difficult than understanding a motorcyle EFI/ignition system. If one wishes back these parts, then it seems as if he's not familiar with either of these systems. Hubert

The right stuff is built in. It comes in perfect condition right from the factory. It makes absolutely no sense to get any angular displacements into this place. This rubber blocks shall take the brittleness out of the rear end of the drive train, not more. Keep the revs above 3000, use a heavy flywheel, pull the clutch only when you really need it, and you're most friendly to all your splines. Or go and buy another bike, a high reving 4, or even better one of the new upcoming electro bikes. They are spline friendly. Hubert

What we are looking for is the temperature around the combustion chamber. Therefore the OEM used plastic part, properly assembled, is perfect (as long as it doesn't brake, of course). The brass replacement may be rocksolid, but it transfers more heat off of the NTC, cools it down. I'm not sure of how much effect this has, but the hotter NTC is, for sure, in the plastic housing (again - as long as it's properly assembled!). BTW, on my bike I can monitor the head temperature on Cliff's Optimiser. After about 3 miles it shows 75°C (ambient 10°), operating temp. is about 95°C (ambient 20°C). Interesting is the fact, that at idle it rises rapidly to 120° and more. 125°C I can see also when I show off the Quat-D while cruising between all those Coburg street cafès The temperature rises fast, but goes down only very slowly and never in city traffic! Hubert

At this point the procedure is worth to be discussed. As you cannot be sure whether 1 turn open for the left screw means the same as one turn open on the right one (tolerances, wear, debris ...) you would better balance the flaps with both screws closed. Closed is closed. After having reached a good balance at 2000 or more, turning the white knob, you can open both screws the same amount (you prefer 1 turn) and adjust the left set screw to get an acceptable idle. At this point you will probably notice a remarkable misbalance between left and right body, if you have your TwinMax still attached. This misbalance should not be adjusted with the right set screw, use the bypass screws to achieve a good balance. That's what they're meant for. At such small opening angles the influence of tolerances of the duct or flap diameter, sharp or damaged flap edges etc. is remarkable. It's the bypass screws that help to compensate these effects. Hubert

As I do not always change the filter when I change the oil, I actually can't remember whether I tightened the filter enough the last time. I think it was in autumn 2005. Remember: Never touch a running system! Hubert

To me it seems as if removing the tank would be a minor problem compared to those that a cracked and stumped plastic housing might induce. Hubert

Working OEM system meant the standard temp.-sensor, mounted with a sufficient amount of heat transfer paste so that it can work as designed. You should compare such a system to the one that MS is selling. Are you sure about the stories you mention for the Breva? Such a system would require a wide band probe with special controller and would be really very advanced for a motorcycle, especially at this price level. Maybe that the big Beemers have it, but Guzzi...? Hubert

Compare the MS thingy with a working OEM solution. That's what counts.

Perfect answer. My V11 now has 72.000 km on the clock, K+N for 60.000km, and guess what: oil consumption goes against nothing, power is enough etc. etc. Hubert

If you don't get reasonable readings, then you have probably mesured between the wrong points. Put minus to a solid ground on the bike or battery minus, then check the outer cables (1 or 3). One should give a constant (+-) 5V reading, the other cable is the signal, going from about zero (or 400 or 500 mV) up to nearly 5 at WOT. This must work, or the bike wouldn't run at all. Kevin, if you're sure and it seems that you do so, then the TuneBoy software in its actual state is probably not state of the art One other very good moment to mention of how happy I am with the My15M Hubert

I see your point. I have several reasons for my above mentioned opinion. - the head-temp. sensor is for head temperature, not for oil temperature. - head temperature is the basis for how much the mixture should be enriched. Think of your old Guzzi, immediately after it ran you could close the starter valves, despite the fact that the oil still was at ambient temperature. The same should be valid for EFI systems. That's probably the reason why the engineers at Guzzi placed the sensor at exactly this location, very close to the combustion chamber and close to the inlet duct. Opimal location if seen from the above described point of view, I'd say. Now, this MS homebrew solution a) is sitting in a very periphere region of the head, and b ) the sensor gets cooled by the relatively cold oil coming from the cold front of the engine and being further cooled down in the open led hose. This location is not the spot where the music plays (that's how I'd express it in German). The heat comes from the combustion chamber, reaches the outer end of the uppermost cooling fin, part of it goes into the oil, the rest squeezes itself through the plug threads, has to pass through an also in this case necessary layer of heat conductive past, before it finally can give its information to the NTC element. Moto Guzzi is still in business only because they don't develop in every direction the one or other mechanic around the world may find interesting while looking at a customers Goose, cigarette in one and beere in the other hand. Hubert

Probably not 100%, but most things are better than air. Heat-conductive paste is specialy designed to connect sensors to surfaces or to connect hot electronic items to cooling devices (processors). Connecting means getting rid of all insulating air between the two elements. More of it here Anyway, with HC-paste or without it, the sensor will always have the same temperature, it's only a matter of time. There is such a huge amount of heat coming from the head and only so little going away through the sensor cables, that you will see not very much difference between the several solutions. The worst solution I've seen so far is the one from Moto Spezial. Hubert

A bit of heat conductive jelly would have done the same job, just better and cheaper. Hubert

Now that's one interesting post. Are you sure about that? If so, then it's a good point for TuneBoy owners. How do we adjust the idle trim?? Hubert

What makes you think that this was a better solution? What you really want to see is the temperature around the inlet valve or inlet duct. It makes no sense to measure the temperature of the cooling fins, nor is the oil temperature a realy relevant value to trigger the ecu. Hubert

Don't let him sell a regulator to you

Spoiled!! Why? Hubert

Before you go out to drill these holes, are you sure you have your rubbers lubed? Hubert

Here they recommend a static sag of 28-33/5-10 for sportsbikes and 25-30/10-15 for comfy chairs. Sportsbikes are mostly ridden solo, touring bikes with two passengers maybe. Ladden should be one third of the total stroke, sports or touring, this would make 40mm for the V11 front and rear. They say you should go for the correct ladden sag and then try to adjust the preload a bit to get the static figures, probably not without new springs. Hubert

71.000km or 44.000 Miles. One TPS (now HD), one set of wheel bearings (too much cleaning), Oil Pressure Switch, Tach. That's it. Tranny recall ignored, Siemens relais and original gearbox springs. Hubert

Put your fingers elsewhere. Hubert

Another reason why this mod is not a real good idea: these "springs" are mounted without any preload. No sag discussion here, but without preload one side gets compressed while the other side floats around, totaly bored and unloaded. The moment the load changes its orientation it should definitely be possible to hear it "smack". Merriam-Webster says: slack - not tight or taut . If that aint spot-on... Hubert

Mike, that's not so much a problem: take a piece of metal or rubber, clamp it on one side, stretch it with a certain, in this example preferable heavy load, measure the elongation under this load, and then drill a good hole through the probe. Depending of the load two things may happen: one is it will be stretched for some more millimeters, the other one is you will have two of them. There is one other problem. Let's assume the hole was small enough so that you can repeat this stretching often enough, then you may notice that the piece of rubber gets warmer and warmer, hot maybe. Why that? It's just the work that you apply. These rubber parts as they are delivered by Moto Guzzi work as designed. Drilling them is not a good idea. They are not designed to work as soft springs with relatively big elongations, it's just the wrong material and the wrong shape. If you make the geometry too soft, not rigid enough, the geometry will disintegrate. A hole here and one there may do no harm, at least it gives you the good feeling that you were kind to her, but these cheesy pix and the 50% reduction of cushions are something very worth a controvers discussion, to say the least. You can probably see what I want to say with the above, hopefully also behind the one or other wrong word or grammatical construct. Maybe that we have a member here with some engineering and anglo-american background and willing to jump in and give a better understandable explanation about the relation between load - elongation - shape - stress - inner damping - heat - proper material - failure. It's no help if you put a Webster besides your ratchet. Hubert