luhbo

That's the basic misinterpretation: if it feels cushy, then it's elastic, things move relative to each other, you have more slack as Dave says. Simply drilling these hard and cheap rubber blocks 'till they look as a swiss cheese is just bullshit, anything but brilliant If some are afraid of closing the throttle because they think this will destroy their Guzzi, then a drilling machine won't help them. Besides, taking an axe and having a good time behind the shop for some hours can also cure a lot. So why not...

Seems as if your dealer just hasn't the right believe. Go and show him the "Soft Cushion" thread and he'll see the light. You must feel the pain physically when you close the throttle and think of all the splines beeing tortured by your misbehaving. Then you are on the right way. Show him the solution with the perforated cushions and he'll perfectly understand what sort of solution a Guzzi owner wants, a Guzzi owner needs for his problems and he'll probably find a solution for this pressure thing as well. I could think of a temperature compensated 32 bit PIC solution for instance. Something like that... Hubert

I'd be carefull with this. I know, Greg has written it down and you Ratchet have given your Amen, but that wouldn't bring me spares when I had spoiled my cushions. Hubert

How much experience does Greg or others have with so heavily drilled cushions? How many miles? I can see a big risk that all these holes will totaly destroy the cushions in very short time. The reason is that making them "cushier" does directly result in very large elongations for this stiff and hard material. I can imagine that these cheap rubber parts can't stand these elongations and the herefrom resulting stress for a remarkable time. I'm with Jack, few but carefully positioned holes are probably better. Or a lot of holes but then only in combination with a high quality material as Dave has mentioned. Hubert

I see the same on all my Guzzis. The light is on on idle and goes immediately out as I touch the throttle. Especially on hot days. My bikes idle at about 1050 and lower. Hubert

He's an interesting person, indeed. More pics here Hubert

Enter the corner decidedly and unhesitantly, then the rest comes automaticly. That's my understanding of Mr.Tenni's words. Hubert

I've got mine, too. Nice watch, indeed. Thank you for the prompt delivery. Hubert

Yes, you are right, Dave. Sorry, GJ. I indeed overread the small but important 8mm washer detail. Hubert

Cat, I once had a similar problem. I just informed PayPal, they asked the seller what happened, I think he didn't reply to them either, so after 5 days the money was back on my account. Hubert

No, not , it's technical nonsense. The spring works against the brake main piston. Hubert

I'm glad that you've found the manual. These Holland bikes are quite rare outside of holland. There are parts of Germany, up in the north, which are a bit like The Netherlands and there they have those bikes,too. Bend the chain guard a bit outside so that it touches the right pedal lever and loosen the rear mudguard. Then you'll get the right feeling when when riding it. I've recently read an article about our former capital. It's a real lovely town, indeed, and also the people there should be worth a visit. Hubert

Thank you Tom for the input. The front on my KR is adjusted to nearly the same values. I think the rear is not properly adjusted. Unladen sag = 10mm, laden = 40mm. 10mm unladen is probably not enough. It seems as if the spring is a bit soft also. Besides that I want to mention that it was witten in nearly all test reports that the chassis works perfectly with a passenger, much better at least as when ridden solo. Hubert

That's what I like most on the Quat-D, besides its look and sound. You can run the engine perfectly lean with it. Actually I have the map tuned to AFRs between 14.4 and 15.4. At higher revs and wider throttle I let it go down to 13.5 . No pinging, of course! I really do like this setup (you would probably say you love it ) Hubert

With Quat-D and Cliff's My15M (running closed loop) my KR actually betters 53/44 Imp/US mpg (5,4 litres/100km). The engine now has 43000 miles plus on the clock. No problems with it so far. These are very good numbers IMHO. Most of my fellow riders overhere never better 40/33 mpg. That seems to be quite common. Hubert

Please mail me pictures and I'll get my son looking after it. We have some good pusher shops around here, just in case you needed any spare parts. Where have you been in Germany? Hubert

At NotRight and others What suspension sags do you have on your bikes? I followed the various links, to and from, and all I could find were rough numbers, 20% here and 15 or 25% there. They never give any hints for shaft driven bikes e.g. So what sag rear and front is proofen, at least for you? What ladden and what unladden. Thanks in advance... STOP! I do know about the difference between static and dynamic sag. Just keep it simple, it's just to give an expression of what should be the goal. Hubert

How do you check the initial gap? With something like chewing gum, or can you see the gap? Or do you measure from the hole down to the wheel and compare this with the length of the sensor? Hubert

Loctite is an anaerobic curing glue. This means, it wont cure 'til you mount the plug. Actually I'm back from my garage, having changed the oil within roughly 10 minutes. I just changed the oil, not the filter, also I was not really interested in what I might find inside the pan. Then it goes easy. I used the rear axle nut and only removed the manhole plug. I did this the first time this way and was quite impressed of how much oil can fall out through that hole in less than 2 seconds If you want to try it, make sure that you can deal with all this oil. I decided to go this way because I also don't trust the rear plug's thread. Last time I worked on it the plug already startet to give a somehow soft feeling Hubert

Crooz, before you go, from where did you get your avatars? I always liked them I have to say. Who's that women or, better, the fotografer? Hubert

Was it interchangeable with the Bitubo part or did you need a special mounting kit? Hubert

Your addressing two problems. One is the bouncing lever, this can be solved the way I described above. Look also on the two pictures below: The other problem is solved by adjusting the moving bits below the throttle body. Use a mirror or get down on your knees to find this mechanism. Its selfexplaining, more or less. Hubert

Don't mind, it's a bodgers' thread anyway. Probably step one for finding solutions for problems with italian bikes is the assumption that "Luigi" is dumb. That's so on every Italian Bikes forum, funny enough. Besides the fact, that most of the assembly work was and is done by Gina, Sophia or Paola, that's just nonsens. So in this case, why do you fiddle with springs? Wouldn't it be a more natural approach if you opened the fast idle lever, find the slot in the friction disk, feed this slod with a bit of rubber, reassemble the whole thing "proudly where you live" and finally enjoy the now perfectly working fast idle lever, working as designed? Hubert

Thanks for that Hubert

Please don't forget to keep us informed how it worked! And don't try to open the two posts on the downside of the housing. They come loose as soon as you turn them. Hubert