luhbo

Nothing special, just a Mk2. I still have the first version running, without probs. Once I had water got in and after that it behaved a bit strange. Drying it thorougly and after that some electronics laquer cured it. Anyway I had the MKII already ordered and ready assembled. The major difference between Mk1 and 2 might be the possibility to add a second lambda probe, but here Cliff probably knows more. As soon as I'll have a matching Optimiser I'll give the Mk2 a try, although I don't expect it to behave very much different. Enjoy your My15M Hubert

TuneEdit can convert it. I have a 900SS ecu as spare, reflashed to a Guzzi Titan version. Hubert

Murphy stands against those cheap car chargers. You can count on that. I'm using my R/C all type microcontrolled charger. This won't help you, but I've tried the cheap version before and everytime I wasn't there when it went over 15V. This charger starts with 5,5 A and keeps it until the voltage reaches 14.5. Then it slightly decreases amperage down to 50 mV, this way keeping the voltage all the time at 14.5V. Besides that Hawker claims that 14.7 or even 15V would be better for the battery. Hubert

Paul is right. There's absolutely no way. To Nogbad and others: this diskussion was led some 10 years ago already, when ABS was introduced for cars. Lots of pros and cons. The truth is that ABS is a definite safety plus, especially when the grip changes. Forget your expensive braking course when you have to react to sudden, unexpected changes of tire friction like sand, wet spots etc in a panic situation. And you don't need to fall, it's often enough if you're a bit slower when the impact comes I'd probably always buy the bike I like, but when I had the option for an ABS system then I'd probably spend this money! Hubert

Maybe it's the english, maybe my imagination, but that sounds not very promissing. Are you sure you can trust them? If the bolt should realy be to hard for the average mechanic then tell him to use the hard metal tip stone drill version. After grinding them to the correct tip shape they make wholes in nearly everything. Hubert

Don't overtighten them. This is what kills them, not so much the ageing. If you see the rubber becoming deformed it's definitely to much. Hubert BTW, a comparison between your now optimised ecu and the Titanium race ecu would be most interesting. Any plans in this direction?

Hi Raz, this should be not so much a problem. Give he head to an engine repair shop. They have the equipement to clamp the head properly and then drill out the rest of the bolt. If you try to drill it out by hand you'll need a very good portion of good luck. Actually you don't really look like a winner, so go searching for such a shop. Over here you'd find one every 50 km, Sweden shoud be not very different. After the bolt is out let them build in a Heli-Coil insert. This will last forever. And hey, spring has only just begun. Don't buy used equipement now. Normaly these parts need also repairment, so I see no gain. Hubert

Don't you look! It'l blind you. - Oh.... anyway, one eye I may risk ... Besides that, your land seems to have become quite a poor land in the meantime... Hubert

You mean something like that? Hubert

I opted for 2, with a strong tendency to 1. Reason 1: I found that washing is not good for wheel bearings, rubber parts and things in common ( don't use the bike in winter on salty roads). Two or three times a year should do. Reason 2: I once decided to strip my 750S and give it a full spray and repair and what else job. It really looked very well used at this time. Well, the result was R.I.P (rest in pieces). But there's still hope. I probably won't move the next 15 years, and then I hope they will let me retire. I'll need a project then. Hubert

Yes, I think I experienced the same. The hesitancy is compensated by a wider throttle opening. There is no gain without some mental training, means you just should accept the weak feeling. Can you accept the hesitancy when you want to correct your corner radius? It may be the same effect that gives a better mileage with dual pluged heads. The engine responses quicker, so you can leave the throttle more closed for the same acceleration. Hubert

If it was my bike i'd just ignore the blue and go on with it. Nevertheless a polishing of the big ends with very fine sanding cloth (don't know the enlish expression) won't make things worse. Just to make sure that no aluminium is left on the surface. Remember, the old Guzzis had no oil filter and all the debris that made it's way through the oil pipes was pressed into the bearings. They very seldom looked as imaculate as you would expect them to look. The whole crankshaft is so what of oversized. Guzziology writes of very bad looking crankshafts that turned out to be in perfect condition after the sanding paper treatment. BTW, to MAN lorry engines we gave the same treatment when they came in to get the engine repaired. And they had to be reliable after that for another 200.000 km As you wrote, what can you loose? The crankshaft, the real expensive part, won't get worse. Hubert

If you don't let her redline from time to time she will probably commit suicide one day. Remember my words Besides that it makes no sense to keep an engine at speed on that sort of dyno. They can only evaluate the acceleration of the dyno's flywheel. As I know they don't have a serious brake implemented, also no serious cooling for the engine. Hubert

Just disconnect the tach and check whether this was the reason. Personally I do not think that all the sensors and the ecu should be changed to fit the new engine. Probably you have some wires jammed deep in the internals of your bike. Try to remember what you had apart and how it was connected to each other. This will help. If not, check the phase sensor on he timing gear. Maybe it's misaligned, dirty or simply broken (after you have knocked the frame on it...) Hubert

There's no need to torture your bike in an extraordinary way. This is from V11Sport.de: Hubert

Yes, I'm sorry about that. My fault. When I wrote "unmodified" I was talking about hardware mods. Mine went nuts once, but this one was equipped with some aftermarket eeprom. Because the shop that did it was (and still is) a bit nooby they had to remove the original one, replacing it with a soldered socket. I really see no way how a software modification should change the ECU this strange way. If this would lead to any pin left high after shuting down this would mean a remarkable higher drain. That's what I guess. Hubert

Cliff, you overlooked that Your15M shows the same symptomes - in his bike! Some weeks ago Nogbad has posted that his '2000 V11 started right on the first click after some weeks of winter rest, with a 6 year old OEM battery. I can read similar stories in the german forum, so the ECU is probably the wrong trace to be searched. One more thing: I never heard of one defect WM15 (as long as it was left unmodified), David thinks to have even two of them. I do not think so. Hubert

It's a German seller, by the way. He speaks English. Hubert

Combine it with an additional relay that controls the rear light and you can save even more, this time without any safety losses. BTW, in Germany head lights ON is mandatory for bikes, nevertheless nearly all bikes have the above switch. How is it done in the USA, is the light on also when the engine is off? Why do you switch the light off in urban areas? Is this a synonym for Stop'n Go? Especially there between all those cars, pedestrians, buses, neon signs etc. a bike is nearly invisible, the more when it moves quicker than the rest of the traffic. Hubert

No, the Tontis all had two joints quite tight connected to each other. That's why they needed an extra bearing in the swing arm. I actually know only of BMW having had the simple and cheap solution. The interesting question is how bad a misaligned shaft treats the rest of the bike. Some have written they didn't notice anything at all. On the other hand Gregg thinks he has a completely new ride now since Pete has reassembled his shaft. Probably the truth lays somewhere in between, and the shit in Pete is at the same place where I carry mine. Hubert

All the older Beemers have exactly the same sinusoidal vibrations, being equiped with only one joint in the drive shaft. Guess what, they just ignore them. No lost mirrors, tortured splines or whatever horror is produced here. So don't let the gurus spoil your day. If you find your shaft misaligned, correct it if you can. If you don't have the tools for it then ride on and ask your dealer next time you see him if he could have look after it. Hubert

That's what I thought, yes. Does it help against getting overlooked when your light shines "warm" yellow instead of shiny white? I'd save my time and wouldn't do that. Hubert

Hey, isn't that an attempt to get more, at least the same output with less input? Making the night brighter with less current and the same voltage? As long as I don't understand the concept behind this, for me this smells a bit like searching volunteers to testplay the first R/C soccer ball. Here they try this every now and then and guess what, they always find two complete teams. Or do you call it road legal when you have two filaments glowing with only have the power each? Remember that you get more light out of one 100W bulb than out of a 60W couple. Hubert

In MOTORRAD they mentioned the same in the first test of the then new Breva. They said the main stand would ground way to early and in a quite annoying way. Hubert

Most helpfull this Guzzi science, indeed. Just think of what these tiny lovely Guzzis are able to cope with and to transport and your gonna start your next trip with a lot more confidence that all will go well than before. Hubert