luhbo

It may look so, Alex, but it works fine. The first row just is for naming the cells, the same does the upper most row (in combination of course). Spark Advance 00 (flap closed resp. at idle) up to 14 (WOT) Hubert

At all, who's selling them? On the www I found only mufflers for planes and muscle cars, no Twin option or any hint for a bike line. This company seems to be US based anyway, or at least one with the same name. Hubert And this back brake thing is probably just for bling. If you want this brake saddle to be moving and proper working you must do a lot of work more but only move the anchor from here to there. You must hollow out the anchor, insert a bushing thick enough to stand the tightening of the axle nut, you must seal the whole thing against mud and water, probably ad a grease titty and so on. But I can say, I like both ideas, this brake and this exhaust.

Here is my actual advanc map. I was running an ignition table based on the one Marelli/Guzzi is using, which has a lot more of advance, but I could see no advantage in power or efficiency so I went back to this one. This one is probably like the one Cliff is providing, also it looks quite similar to the standard points based ignition advance curves. The engine now does not run remarkable smoother or more or less powerfull. It does not ping now as it didn't do so before (high loads not under 2500min-1, of course). Hubert

Al, the one in the background, is it for the Granny?

Those hard core tech thingies aren't really sexy, not round enough, bones protruding out here and there, only muscles the rest. I've voted for the V11 before they got anorexia. Hubert

Here's one of mine, taken this year in august. Unfortunately that's not me in the saddle - or should I say fortunately cause he's to wait another 5 years, at least, to roll her out? It's still the old cans mounted, actually I have an Ex-Box bolted on. Hubert

Rob, the point is that all what you find so marvelous and easy to be done can today be achieved without any additional peace of hardware with all its possible risks and downsides. You buy a cable and a key for your personal ecu (in this case it's your personal map) from TuneBoy and after that you can apply every PCIIIusb or older correction maps in the same easy way as if you'd have the PC installed, just by reflashing the OEM ecu. That is for those who really think they need a PC map to get their bike going. You could as well just enrich the map here or there about 5% if you like, or lean it out, or reduce spark advance instead, or all together and so on. If you're in doubt about your improvements or if your friendly epa agent recommends it - just go back again. I just find this PC idea a bit oldfashioned nowadays when reflashing has become so easy. I don't think the PC is a silly device, there's probably a lot of professional work behind it and also its case' styling is more but charming with those big gold letters and so, it really can enhance a bike. But I do think that actually there are better solutions on the market as maybe 3 or 4 years ago and I do think that it is silly to negate this fact. Hubert

Others say lambda as rich as 0.8 for max torque, lean up to 1.1 for best economy. My experience is also what Paul said already, 0.9 is fine. Lambda 1 is tricky, leaner is almost useless as you only very seldom run the engine steady at low load. That's for my single spark, 2-valve hemi-heads A tuneable acceleration pump emulation in the efi software would be great for experiments with lean running big V-twins. Hubert

I'd let my fingers off this PC stuff. "Get a good map from a friend" is bollocks if you cannot 100% copy his entire setup. You definitely need a dyno to get what you spent your friend's money for. Not that it wouldn't work, but it works now also, without a lot of money spent and a lot of space wasted. My recomondation would also be a My15M 'cause I'm so glad with it, or for your faint hearted friend, as you wrote, a Tuneboy cable with software. Tuneboy means a state of the art solution, reprogramming the OEM ecu, compatible with any TuneLink dyno, and also capable of reading and applying every PCIII map you can lay your hands on. I forgot, the PCIII unfortunately cannot solve timing issues, it has to make wonders out of fuel and more fuel only... Hubert

What happens when you remove the PCIII?

This way I pronounce french words, too. At least those I don't know what means many. A bit through the nose and all sounds perfectly Parisièn

O.k., then this leads me to "Trennscheibe". No pronounciation hints this time. Hubert

What do you lazy and laid back guys think about "Stummellenker". I'd really like to hear you saying this classic. Think of it as some sort of linguistical aikido. Concentrate on the S, in this case it sounds as the SH in Shine, stop briskly but only for a very short moment on the T and then let the rest flow out. One softly flowing verbal landscape with some rough peaks here and there. Hubert After the T you should not start the 'ummellenker' with something like 'humm..'. Drop the H, that's the trick

Paul and Jaap on the picture Paul posted the cans don't look symmetrical nor parallel, albeit it's not the worst look at all. The Titaniums should come out very tight below the rear end of the seat, nearly interfering with the indicators. Then they look good. Actually some copied this look for the back of the Aprilias. At home I have a picture from Jaap's meeting in 2004. One dutch fellow had them attached perfectly, on a green short frame V11. Wait a bit and you'll see what is possible. BTW, actually I'd not use tape to protect them, as I've written. Now I think a good solution would be the use of a piece of a inner tube, strapped over the cans where the clamps are. If everything fits you can mark the clamps and cut the rest off. This would also further improve the fitting and the problem with getting them tight. Hubert

I switched over from a well used LM3 in white, to a green 2000 v11, and I missed the LM3, really. It was my second bike, after a 750 S bought in 1981. I still have them both, btw, so nothing unforgiveable happened. After 2 weeks I had completely forgot the Tontis. Go for the short V11, it's uncomparable! And maybe buy a Quat-D ex-box to complete it. Then this combo will do for the next 15 years or so. Hubert

If you touch the spikes it's probably only small flakes and metal powder. The magneto and the Moly build up such nice spikes, at least on my 66.000 kms used v11. Besides that, it probably won't live for ever... Hubert

You've either got a very clever mechanic/shop or you missunderstood something. No regular remapping, of course. Maybe it was at 10.000 because at this time there was an update available from Guzzi. This could make sense. HUbert

Is she fund raising for starving children or what? David, are you sure with what you said that centering the wheel would be the problem? Can't see your picture Hubert

Rear shock adjuster? Sometimes they move forward and then can block the throttle. Hubert

I for instance do not think you make this shit up. Anyway, you know, things can be made public in various forms and styles, and some postings of some people sometimes and under certain circumstances could be looked upon as a being a bit more frightening as they should be, I think. My point of view is that a system as crucial for the main functions of any engine could not exist if it was not proofen to be 120% reliable under all circumstances. The OEMs like GM, Ford, Moto Guzzi, DC and also the minor ones would never rely on parts of small suppliers like UFI, Mann&Hummel, Champion etc. if they weren't absolutely sure of being on the safe side. Just think how you would look at it if you were to make a FMEA for this. It will ruin your engine, it will kill people driving behind your car, it's hidden under the hood and you have no real chance to check whether it's mounted properly. 10 points each, I'd say. All those filters are based on the same system, since 30, 40, 50 years, don't know. It is fool proof! It must be! So, why does it happen anyway? - If it was a weak flange design then there should be more failed ones actually but only 4 or 5, the more as this engine (and parts) was used already in the 1100 sports and Daytonas and others. - My personal opinion based on personal observation is that the small hole in the oil pan could be the reason for the failing filters. If you don't remove the pan you can touch the filter only with the finger tips. This gives a totaly different feeling of what "handtight = 12 Nm" should mean! I did it last time and was more but unsecure of how tight the filter really was. - Realising this problem you could think it's a good idea to use a tool to tighten the filter. Now again this may be the first time for one or others that they mount a filter this way. Fearing to overtighten it may lead to too less torque, being less scrupulous easyly can damage the seal. So my opinion is, if you loose an oil filter or its seal on a V11 it probably was just too difficult for the operator to mount it properly under these difficult circumstances given at V11's. Hubert

I must say I like the can. Nice stuff. Reminds me of the oldtime model engine race fuel cans. Nevertheless they were equipped with skulls and bones also. That was saying "confidential horsepower". But if you realy want to unleash the true potential of your engine and your fuel additives you definitely need this first: The Fuel Molecular Ionic Accelerator!

Tell you why this inner tube looks bodgy: it needs the Main General Ultra Bodge of original hugger as carrier to be bolted on. Everything that relays on this silly part has good chances to be called a bodge. Hubert

He knows that it'll be not so easy to find a replacement that says the same to him I think.

Thanks, Slug. It's a rock solid engine, isn't it. Would have been a nice shot if his left cylinder would've had popped instead of the tire. "OMG, what's that?" Hubert Ah, Slug, you know, looking at your posting I must say you're looking really silly, OMG! Ratchet has so funny eyes, but you, you're too much.

No chance! Only "The url contained a malformed video id."