luhbo

Looks promising, doesn't it? Maybe two OHCs? In the right direction? The pics will come now, I'm curious

Youtube - don't go there

You probably wouldn't make that much overseas business. Here we have that through already. It's been the 'Gerd' Feder - Gerd being the only one in this universe being able to roll proper springs and highly prised for that. Until the first stories of broken Gerd's rolled in at least. Sic transit gloria mundi (or so). Best cure so far seems to be having a spare one under the seat they say. BTW: the KR I fetched from Italy 2 years ago as replacement for my old Greeny had this "Japanese Mod" installed already. Needles to say that, of course, between a lot of other crappy made things on this bike, the cover was leaking at this point. Edit: just reread the mentioned thread and it seems as if the 'under seat spare one' charm didn't work for you, Scud

And maybe someone could make a forum search. I remember a lot of threads and pics and solutions, though no details (happy ignorant KR owner). Belfast did a lot of research I think. He rode a Scura btw

I'd be interested in why nobody can tell why they don't break on the early models. You can read of different diameters and how to fix this and that. However, they still keep braking on the later ones ...

Very much for over here.

Chemist's shops, drugstores. Or at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PSGWHIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1509816380&sr=8-5&keywords=glycerine&dpPl=1&dpID=41zn0IigAfL&ref=plSrch# 1 galleon. Don't ask me why it should be kosher, any ideas?

Glycerin. Very good and most compatible to all sorts of natural rubbers. Water-soluble, too, so the treatment is reversible.

Did you theck the pinion support bearings? That's a weak spot and known for failing. Radial play there and you need special tools and sometimes really expensive parts. As you have changed the big gearing you should also check the contact pattern between crown and pinion, the more as your end drive might have been a Monday after Siesta example. That's why Dave asked you about reshimming.

Strong ones are bending the heads, so after being down you'll have a leaking cover. I've seen some using plastic sliders as crash guards. They support a bigger part of the cylinder. While that may help it still looks a bit strange in my eyes.

You obviously found a theory that comes after your expectations

More a sort of asylum rather than a shop. One has to call up high prices there to keep the flock together. Then the trick is to survive as a shop anyway.

The standard Young Timer tyre comes from Bridgestone, the BT45. I know, that name hurts in italian context, but I have no good experiencies with Conti in this segment. The BT45 works perfectly.

You say you're no Kenny Roberts - though your tyre looks definitely different. So either you are Kenny Roberts and just to shy to confess it - or you have practically no reserve on the flanks even with your decent riding style.

I forgot: ever seen a modern race bike without an air box? MGS01 without air box?

RAM effects can give positive effects at speeds over 250 km/h. 200hp rockets like Ducs or Kawas can make additional 4 or 5hp at such speeds, 200hp they have anyway. The advantage of a big enough airbox is that it provides calm and maybe slightly pressurised air to the engine. The airflow behind cylinders and rider's knees, near the gap to the rotating rear wheel, under cross wind effects etc. is totally different to the above mentioned calm and maybe slightly pressurised air, consistently delivered to both cylinders. Oh, and a nice welcome to another Green keeper around here. Be nice to it

Porn enough

Wild mixture. Looks like a silver KR tank and a repainted seat base without stickers. Another resurrection project I'd say.

My opinion and AFR based experience is so that without airbox the engine runs rich. It goes that far that even removing the snorkels makes things worth, not better. BTW, "dangerously" is definitely completely overboard in this context. I cannot speak for other colours, but Greenies usually sport a rather healthy nature.

The crown is supported by the rear wheel, on this don't know how you call it greasy spline thingy with the cushions under it, one side, the other side goes on the axle with bearing 36. The crown feels perfectly well without any housing at all (lateral/axial forces neglected here). Go out, jog it and see how loose it sits. The other 3 bearings, the big balls in the housing cover, the small needler and the ominous 12 only carry the housing. The big ball bearing takes also the reaction forces coming from the pinion which act in axle direction. You see that the crown is shimmed only from one side, that's the direction in which these forces go. Please ask what I meant in case you find any silly words in the above

Needles(s). I have them laying here. None of the bearings is overstressed when 12 is missing, no enddrive prone to grenading because of that. Wobble they do anyway.

Ok then, different approach: Imagine the crownwheel being welded firmly to the rear wheel. This unit would need only two bearings to the axle, namely the one at the brake disk and one on the other side, this being the number 36 from the schematics above and also shown in one of the pictures previously posted (inside the crown). Next we add the housing, put it over this combo. To support it and to allow the crown-rear wheel combo spin freely in it we need another two bearings, these being on the spinning rear wheel side number 26, on the opposite, non spinning side that's number 30/31. This would be sufficient. Now when we add a third bearing (12) this system becomes over-constrained. To get it working you have to keep rather tight co-axiality tolerances for the inner and outer bearing seats. To complicate things further you have to make sure that the cover goes into the housing with as little play as possible, also just a matter of costs. Obviously it's not a really big disadvantage for the factory if they just forget the number 12 from time to time. We don't know what happened, could have been no bearings available, could have been a batch of poorly made housings or crown wheels, could have been a tired Luigi just as well.

I'd be glad when in 20 years I'd still remember this forum at all

edited my post above. It's hard to keep track with such fast moving threads. edit again: a missing 12 would not be much of a problem for 30/31. It's sitting on a long lever and it sees not much movement. next edit: get rid of 12, there's no need for it.

Sorry if I ask a bit silly, but which bearing is missing now? Number 12 or number 26? A missing 26 would mean hard life for 27, a missing 12 would be not so much a problem because you still have 30, 31 and 26. Again, is 12 really missing or just unnecessary weight and money? For Docc: 36 is inside the crown, on the axle, 26 is inside the cover 23. That means, the crown is running on 36 and the rear wheel, the housing is running on 26 and 12. 30/31 is needed only for the suspension movement. That's why it's always rusty and that's why it's enough if you keep the rust away from it. It doesn't really move.