luhbo

You might find interesting the fact that this TPS crap is genuine designed (made?) in the USA, regardless what may be engraved on the top of it. The company is called CTI, you will find this TPS together with its ridiculous specification on their homepage. The engine redline is quite irrelevant for the TPS itself as the throttle flap makes about 90° here as well as there. Contact them and tell them what crap they sell, maybe they will give a few samples to this forum as a good will action. More likely they will answer that usually you get what you pay for. So it's interesting to see that a company like HD, actually making quite good profits with their products, also feels the need to use such 5 cent articles in such important places. Hubert

That's great, indeed! I'm afraid I'll never get behind the secrets of this PC stuff. If one has already double cheated the ecu by dynoing the PC on the basis of a non-spec TPS setting why should he then cheat the whole construct again by shifting the basis the third time? I always thought the PC allows it to enrichen or lean out the map exactly as needed? Hubert

Trade it for shiny aluminium fluid container caps (if some one lets you). Hubert

That's how I have mine wired, too. I'd try to disconnect single connectors and look what happens. So disconnect the bulb/yellow first, then cut or remove the black housing ground (without turning loose the post), and so on. What do you mean with "disconnect the tach"? All wires? It could be this is worth its own thread then. Hubert

Gary, thank you for the hints. On mine these were ok. Anyway the circuit seemed to be broken. Instead of just resolder all the joints I completely disassembled the whole thing, only to find that even the thin wire was ok over its entire length. Rewiring the coil has something of Zen, I tell you! So the funny thing now is that that the tach now works again. So much about the theory with the dried caps. Maybe the fault on mine were just one or more weak solder points, who knows. Or it is indeed a problem with the connectors. Wait a bit and I will post some pics from the one with the definitely f#%§ed up electronics. This one goes up to 11000 as soon as it gets the first impulses from the ecu. In the meantime you can look what Cliff found out about what is send to the tach. Hubert

Yep, seems to be hard to find this one! Thank's anyway. Hubert

Thank you for the link. The stepper driven tach looks interesting, but all what a quick search could bring up was very expensive! The rest of the article, hm. They say the additional cable could cure their problems. Probably we're speaking about different tachometers here. The european version of the Veglia has no connection between posts and tach PCB. The black cable going to one post is needed to ground the bulb, not more. If it gets loose the tach goes dark. Shows you this way that it's time to get home Hubert

I had mine open these days. I couldn't see anything obviously broken, so I had to give up and just closed it again. Time will bring a new used one I hope. At least two things may be of interest to some of you: - you can't remove the mass connector from the housing! As soon as you try to open the nut the whole bolt will come loose. If anybdy wants to remove the tach, just cut the black minus wire that goes to the bolt and resolder or reclamp it later. And open all four nuts of the cover - remove the cover - remove the connectors and then push the tach or S-meter out through the sealing ring. - there is no internal connection between the tachometer parts and the housing! All three connectors are internaly wired through to the PCB. A loose cable is most unlikely! What could it be then? As someone has already said, there are about ten discrete parts, resistors, caps, a trimmer, and one IC. These parts normaly don't fail. One theory is, that the 4W bulb inside is heating the parts. Not very much but maybe enough for the caps to dry out and die. Can anybody help with a data-sheet for this SL494 with *** 14 *** pins? Google finds only the version with 16 pins, or the actual part TL494, also with 16. I think if I could compare the 14 with the actual 16 pin version then repairing a tach could be easy. The TL494 costs 20 cent! Hubert

For me it's the first bike I didn't open the first winter I had it. Now the fourth is coming (10°C this night) and I must admit I tend to give up. But I have an alibi: I'm thinking about a twin spark conversion.

Of course! A very valid repair. Quite common since the invention of Cyano, Epoxy and Cie. It seems to be time for a qualified explanation of what is worth a bodge point. Your exhaust seems to be a good candidate. But then, the last award winner, the windage plate, seems to be something completely different. Could it be that an invention worth a bodge point should not only be a QDOS (Quick and Dirty Onroad Solution) but should as well reach a certain intellectual height in this direction? The plate for sure is not a QD(O)S, but it's been awarded... Hubert PS: I'd cut the bolt!

Yes, but wasn't a Bodge-Point meant for something like using your first wifes bra to keep on or bring back to the road your second? "Gimme that, yes, now, no, they don't look, I need it to fix her" - that would be brave. Hubert

Oh, if things like that would be worth a bodge point I'd probably be king of bodge points. On my other bikes, naturally!! Hubert

Yes, it's probably a profile thing...

I never said it was important to have the crankshaft out of center. I said the bike at all, its mass distribution needs to be off-centered. If it's not the bike than the driver will sit out of the center line (verticaly). There's no need for any gyroscopic effects, they hamper more than they help you. Think of those who want their wheels as light as possible, or of those who don't have any wheels at all, like inline 2-ski bobs. Such things exist and are used much to the joy of their owners. They stay upright without any gyroscopic effects (and without the feet down to the ground). The miracle here is to keep the contact points (wheel/road or ski/snow) exactly below the COG. Have you ever balanced a screwdriver on the tip of your finger? That's it. BTW, its easier to balance the longer ones, beginners should try it with a broom What makes it go straight is the geometry, in fact, but of course not directly. What is working are the resulting forces. An angle or a length of something per se won't hold your tyres on the street. The mechanism is called "Seitenführungskraft", I'd translate it as "lateral applied forces". You need such forces by definition to keep your bike, your car, your self on track. This may sound a bit esoteric, but in winter on ice plates it's quite easy to understand what happens without them. What I was mentioning in the upper posts was the influence of these lateral applied forces. They stabilise the bike, forcing it into a stable equilibrum of forces and reaction forces. Without them you could't go on a straight line, you had to wave around it, always in search of a helping counterforce to lean against. Another example: has anyone ever noticed how "surprisingly" uncertain a car or bike can "feels" if it goes over ice and snow, mud or wet "Cat Heads" (that's how we call the well polished basalt pavement). That's exactly a result of the suddenly and sometimes drastically decreased "lateral applied forces", a result of the decreased friction coefficient. Thanks Paul for your line about the Tontis. Those who felt the need to drive broader tires like 150 or so, they had much more than 10mm offset. Hubert

This has something, indeed. To stay inside this picture: a perfectly centered bike then would behave as if running on the aequator line. It would never know whether to pull to the right or to the left. It's simply the fact that a bike needs some forces applied to the front wheel to stabilize it. If the masses are hanging on the right side for instance, the bicycle reacts with a tendency to the left until a new equilibrium is reached. This is what lets you go straight. The alternative would be riding in drunken style Hubert

Jason, this sounds quite reasonable so far. On the other hand, shouldn't a well designed cam treat the complete valve train more gently as the OEM one does ? This means soft opening, hard acceleration - - - and in the end a soft seating of the valve? This should cure problems, not enlarge them. When I remember right it was Megacycle that made promises to cure the problems the small-block 4-valve engines had. They tried, found no market and then also stopped their activities. That's not normal, right. But you certainly agree that such cannot be the rule for all or all the early v11s sold. To me it sounds as if this was either an extreme example of what Ernst wrote or some other strange thing must have happened. Maybe he or someone else ran the bike into the limiter and then eventualy hit the shift lever. Who knows. Shit happens. Look at the one who got his bike back with a badly burnt wiring harness. There are many possible explanations for this, including: some Italian worker had damaged two wires what then led to this disaster. Maybe. Now, any rules of thumb how to deal with this time bomb? I seriously hope mine is a dud , otherwise the remaining Class-A two disk clutch could make a Scura owner happy again. Hubert

Are you sure this makes sense? What I don't understand: what do soft valves have to do with good quality cams and camshafts? Even on OHC engines I couldn't understand this! I can see only one reason to stop the production of aftermarket cams for the V11: there is no more need for them! No more market, if there ever was one. I mean market, not 20 pieces a year or so. And it could be helpfull to be a bit more precise when spreading such things: what is soft or weak? The shaft? The valve-plate? The guides? The seats? And does your bike already suffer from any too soft parts in the engine or is there just rumour that something like this might have happened somewhere? If you open an engine, an air-cooled high performance engine, after 50000 km then you will always find parts showing a certain amount of wear. That's only natural. Where is the problem? The problems arise when someone opens my engine, shows me the worn parts, says that this is normal for a crap bike like mine, sells me his all but cheap aftermaket parts and when I then go home, sit down behind my laptop and write all this what I've just been told right into the next forum. "My dealer has told me that Guzzi is crap and that's why I now had to spend a lot of money. Can you guess how I'm crying?" Crying about what ?! Enjoy your Guzzi. Others do so since years. There's nothing bad with enjoying a Guzzi every now and then. And let them closed. The internals like it dark! Hubert Do you call this "Info"? This "I know someone who has heard from someone who knows the girlfriend that has talked to someone..."? Hubert

These stories are the same bullshit as those old "Guzzis don't stand unleaded" business ideas. Our self-made Mr.Guzzi from DynoTec, the one who was saying Guzzi valves wouldn't be rotating because the Italians are to stupid to design proper cams, this fellow claimed for years that Guzzis can't be run leadless. Fortunately he had the best solution available to help his customers. Now that even the most naive noob has seen that this is nonsense he had the next idea. The valve seats are ok, but the valves are soft as butter. Guess what, he can help you! He's now selling special carbon treated thingies to further help his customers. I'm curious which what ideas he and others of this business will show up next. KR Green 1999/2000: actually 62000 km, valves adjusted once a year, engine/drive-train no recall, still working fine !

I'm not sure about the early V7s but the 750S already showed this or at least a similar offset. It's important to have such an offset. A completely symmetrical bike with a well centered driver won't go straight. If your bike's masses are centered you yourself have to sit off center, just as a matter of fact. Hubert

And still water tight? How can you say it stands only 3 penetrations when you haven't tried a fourth one? While I had a job as as lorry driver I had a colleague who prefered an open system on his speedometer. Above 100 km/h he put the glass away and stoped the needle with his finger. It's an impressive thing: 40 tons of italian truck on the Bahn at about 140 km/h downhill with a snapped german camionista guiding it one hand in the speedo and one hand at the wheel. If he wasn't smoking all the time he'd probably been singing also to serve all possible clichés. Hubert Good idea. I was trying to do it with a screwdriver only. No good results.

I found a solution that suits me well: I cut open the housing and let the chrome ring untouched. I opened this ring once and never got it perfectly back again. It's just impossible. Cutting the housing carefully 1 or 2 cm above the ground will give you entrance to the internals and after your repair is done you can easily reconnect the two halfes with epoxy and glas tape or similar stuff. BTW, my tach also is tilt actually. Up to 2500 it works ok, then it stops softly waving at 3000. Hubert

Probably HT-Moto, wasn't it? Hubert

To be honest: somehow "Some Like It Hot" comes to my mind everytime I look at her. Has she ever been shot into one of her knees? That seems to be not so uncommon for Italians living in the States. And for Jaap: did you mean "Fat" or more something as "Zaftig"? Hubert

Instead of this HMB I'd strongly recommend HT-Moto in Aachen. I made business with none of them, but all what I've heard so far HT-Moto is the much better reputed shop. HMB recently wrote an article about the 750-S3. Giving Porsches light signals at above 210 km/h and more of such crap. Hubert

Normaly you don't have that much space. The common modification is to deepen the valve seats. Technically spoken that's crap. If you go back with the valves you reduce the flow quality what will cost you a good bit of what you can gain. But that's IMHO and only my personal To make the thread shorter: I love my earplugs Hubert