luhbo

It's definitely the case that with earplugs you hear more of what is happening around you! This includes other cars as well as your own exhaust or valve tickering. It depends of course also a bit on the quality of the chosen product. Perhaps you've seen people talking to each other attending a life concert: experienced visitors hold fingers on their ears while listening to each other. Classical musicians in theaters very often prefer to play with plugs, too. Exactly by the same reason. Hubert

To be more precise: measure and compare valve lift on all four of them. Remove the alternator cover and the plugs to turn the engine. Anyway, my old LM3 has definitely a bad camshaft or worn lifters or something like that, but the lift is still okay. It seems that also minor damages make a lot of noise in the engine. Mine really sounds as if I have forgotten a tool under the valve covers. Hubert

I think that I'm using the same brand or type as Waspp. Soft foam, expanding after insertion. We have them at work in dispensers. I use mine for 4 or five days, seems that I have quite dry inner ears. The funny thing with them is that since I wear them I have a lot of talk with people that see me removing them. First they look at these most colorfull plugs, then at the open cans and then at me, asking why I have these loud cans and then earplugs. Somehow they don't really believe that I need them against the wind noise. In my eyes earplugs are not only... ahm, I think that earplugs are not only just for comfort, I'd recommend them as some sort of safety equipement. I don't feel isolated with them, no, I'm sure I hear more of what is happening apround me when I have them in. Also it's very fatigueing to be exposed to this wind and storm noise one hour in the morning and one in the evening. Schubert e.g. claim to have the most silent helmet on the market: 82 dB(A) at 100 km/h! A standard exhaust emits 83! Hubert

As long as he's riding under the warm and blessing shine of Todd and GuzziTech all will become well in the end No, just improper kidding. But in fact my question was meant differently. I just thought that if it was my Pal I'd tell him to come over with his bike and we'd sort out the issues it suffers from. Probably just a misinterpretation of buddy and Pal. Sorry for that.

Your Pal and again Pal and Pal and Pal and my buddy and my Pal... But somehow neither he nor his bike seems to be touching you in any way. What do you call "Pal" in your language? "Enquiring minds just gotta know! " Hubert

Roofer1, something new in the meantime? Are you still hopping your bike? Hubert

They probably know him and about him. Maybe that's the reason...

Guy, that's what I meant. Thank you for this information. Standard rods with heavy big ends make it difficult to find a proper balance. Compare the actual crankshaft shape with that of older versions and see what Guzzi has learned over the years. Hubert Alex, sorry for missunderstanding you. I thought you've bought them. Hubert

Ti-rods are absolutely useless in terms of strength. I've never heard of any broken standard rods. The only usable advantage for street Guzzis is that Ti-rods could be remarkable lighter, especially at the big ends. So in order to get some profit out of the money you've spent for them you should rebalance the crankshaft. Have you done this? Hubert

Yes, that's the point. It's the proper set up that makes the difference. What he did was reduce the roof height instead of overstretch the piston dome height. If it was rising the dome height only it might eventually work, but usually you cannot make them higher without enlarging the valve pockets. That's the point where the crap begins. High domes and deep valve pockets make everything else but a compact combustion chamber. You can top all this only by one thing: trying to drown the resulting ping and knock centers. That's like drowning all the little kitties your cat might bring home every year. That's not an intelligent solution and only the real dumb minded butcher will find some satisfaction while doing such. Hubert

Because he (the Pal) already has them. What Guido says is exactly the same what I have experienced 20 years ago. A friend of mine decided to enlarge his LM1 engine with plaine simple 1000 SP pistons, although special aftermarket LM1000 pistons with high (highest) domes already were available. He also built in another camshaft, the inlet valves of a SR500 and mounted 40er Dell'Ortos. The result was the most pleasant Guzzi engine I've ever seen. Never pinging, as powerfull as the 3C-Laverdas and the Ducs, consuming around 5l/100km and less, and all that with standard LM3 cans. Really silk smooth. I believe that was mostly the result of the very compact combustion chamber formed by the LM heads in combination with the cut-down looking piston domes. Besides the very positive and short flame paths such a combustion chamber also gives the advantage of a definitely smaller surface, so the piston stays cooler, the gas stays hotter and the explosion forces are working more centralised over the piston bottom. I think what I call advantages could be seen as disadvantages for any high compression pistons sold for Guzzis. A very nice example of a high CR system can be found on Buell engines. Reshape the Guzzi heads to something like that and it might work better. Hubert

I once had a similar problem, too. The solenoid clicked, but no turning starter. I also thought that it could be a bad contact in the starter relais/solenoid, the more as knocking on the starter in most cases brought it to life. This is a typical fault that could be seen on all Bosch Anlasser that I ever had to do with. Here it was a completely different story. One day when knocking on the starter again I noticed that the starter had become really hot, hotter as valve covers sometimes get. As it is placed somwhere where such temperatures are not to be expected I dismounted and opened it. I found that again one of the mags had come loose and was already broken in two big and many many smal parts. The culprit were the small parts. They stick to the back of the anchor and there they shorten the commutator. Knocking probably made them move a bit and the starter starting. After a complete cleaning and the reglueing of the big parts the problem was solved. No more aching knuckles. And a new battery on the shelf. Also I found that you can easily hear whether the starter is ok or not. A good example can be heard freewheelin' for nearly a second after releasing the start button. Hubert

Just see it as a Run In. They'll never fail after that. Slug, how does it come you think your probe is overheating? I think I remember to have read about recommended 30 cm behind the valve somewhere. Nevertheless, I've found this position to be one of the most elegant possible. It's hidden a bit below the starter, the cable goes right into the chassis and last but not least the probe sees not only one cylinder. In fact I could imagine that at this position the two exhaust flows have already completely mixed up because of the turbulences I expect to be there. Placing the probe on a pipe could be a real disadvantage in situations when one cylinder is leaner/richer than the other. The ecu will lean out the richer, so the leaner one gets even leaner! The OEM maps show remarkable differences between left and right. These wideband probes are run on a controller that should be able to cope with varying probe temperatures. Hubert

Hopefully not! But if so this would surprise me.

After two evenings of busy comparing color codes, bending pins and soldering, my My15M_MK2 is almost ready. Only the connector is still missing. On the pictures you see the tools I used for that, nothing special: Here the PCB a bit bigger: Another option for placing the O2 probe: Hubert

V11 KR, green, short, well springed all around 57.000 km, no gearbox failure, even the recall was refused. Also couldn't vote therefore. Hubert

Try to get a FIAT or other car version. The housing and connector should be or even really are the same and those probably are very much cheaper than any Guzzi version could be. I think that's exactly what Graham did. Hubert I will post some pics of my maps this evening / this weekend. This will make things clearer. I forgot to mention that you may have to buy two probes for the new My15M MK2 because it can handle left and right cylinder separately. Hubert

Actually not at all. Under this aspect it's not really closed loop in the meaning of how this expression is used in theory or perhaps for car applications. IMHO this 100% pure "closed loop" would make not much sense on a bike. Just because the transition time between WOT and idle and also the response of the engine is so quick and lifely that a proper map is a must. BTW, the automotive applications also are map based. O2-, Knock- and MAP-sensors are used to do some fine tuning, not more. I think you know about these things. To get a proper map is no problem with My15M and Optimiser. I can make changes to my O2 table and after just one day commuting (60km one way) the ecu has auto-adjusted all the changed cells. I think that's exactly the same what a O2/ARF based dyno tuner does. I can have this every day, with the additional advantage of up to 6 different O2 targets for the optimisation. Under load I can go rich, at idle lean, when it pings I reduce the spark advance and so on. The usable benefit is: optimised OEM 6.3l/100km - My15M with my own map 5.4l/100km. Don't get me wrong, I had a lot of fun with the OEM unit, too. Until I lost the resoldered eeprom So, those who like such possibilities will enjoy it. Hubert

Search for LC-1 or under WBO2.com. Actually the sensors and controllers are surprisingly cheap. Hubert

Hi Graham Congrats to your My16M. It's fine that you like it probably as much as I like my My15M. I bought mine in 2004 and have it on the bike since this time. As I was used to a rechiped WM15 I could not notice such remarkable improvements, 'cause the WM15 is not a bad ECU I think. What I like most is the fact that I could build my own ECU with the kit supplied by Cliff. I just followed Cliff's assembly instructions and things went together without any problem. That's the thing for my Ego. The most appreciated practical advantage is the capability of the My15M to be run in closed loop mode with the help of a wideband O2 probe. This in combination with the possibility to choose different O2 targets for every breakpoint or region of the map makes it 'unbeatable'. The My15M/WideBand O2 combo is even capable to cope with a corrupt TPS. All I noticed when mine went nuts was the fact that suddenly the Optimiser showed correction factors from over 15 to 25% as soon as I had opened the throttle more than to a certain degree. At full throttle again all was fine. Probably alone this diagnostic feature saved me money and shop time worth the price of this really nice enhancement to my bike. I don't need one, but it's so much fun to have one. If you have any questions about how mine works feel free to contact me. Hubert

I have solid results as my onboard lambda meter tells me that my engine runs more on the lean side when the snorkels are removed. Going lidless is not really an option for those wanting their brain not to be blown out by the ill noise related to this modification. I have stock x-over, stock airbox, open cans and this combo I can only recommend.

The main difference is "with O2-probe" or "without O2-probe". Nevertheless, on Anima Guzzista you can find this interesting graph showing the differences between models with front crossover and without it. Should this be true, what I doubt, then probably there is more difference between the ecus than just the O2 probe. Hubert

I'm afraid they won't even reach the status of an early 180° Laverda. The point is IMHO that all V7 onward Guzzis are somehow timeless. If I park my 750S between other bikes, the same if solo, no one besides the real connaisseur will have a look at it. And then, what would he see? People often don't recognise the real class something has. Hubert

That's it, Dave. I don't think that anyone will say that sag is more important but the correct ride height. The absolute height is what counts for the correct chassis geometry, and not what percentage of stroke it stands for. Hubert

Yes, that's the same, probably. But then this implies also that all the ladden/unladden relations as percentage from one or the other value, maybe relative to overall stroke as well, are more than "relative". Hubert