luhbo

That's not for TX. I recognise a suspension problem once I see it. Hubert

If you end up between gears this is no big problem. Just act as if you'd shift any older lorry or car with an unsynchronised gearbox. Release the clutch, give a short throttle impulse and let the right gear slip in. It sounds a bit complicated and for a newbie not familiar with such oldfashioned things trying this is complicated as well . I'm afraid even military trucks have lost this feature in the meantime Hubert

Did anybody say there was a reason for not optimizing the suspension?

That's more or less exactly my point of view as well, Brian. What I like most is the sentence "I did it myself and it feels perfect" or so. I'm still strictly against the saying, not fiddling with the springs and sags would be a somewhat suicidal behaviour. That's nonsense because it's so far off of practical life. I can also read nearly every day about someone who blew his mind out on a bike. And I'm quite sure, nearly 100% of those people had the wrong weight for their non adjusted fork springs. What sense should it make to combine these two statements? Hubert

Fiddling with springs and frames (and ecus) surely can and will satisfy the one or other. Especially after X-mas - every spring the same spring issues. Honestly, how many bikes running all over the world are suspension optimised? What do you think. My guess is: much less then one percent. You go to a shop and buy your bike. In 100% of all cases they will sell you the bike you point at, regardless whether you look like a racer-kid or more like the HOG presi. In the automotive industry there is something called the 90% male and 95% female (or vice versa). Maybe for bikes the numbers are a bit different. But for this group the bikes have to fit. And they do fit. Buy them, check the oil, RTFM and ride off! There is an aftermarket spring and damper industry and their products can in most cases improve your bike. But talking about safety issues if you want to or have to ignore their products is a bit over the edge in my eyes. Especially when we are talking about modern Italian bikes. They aren't 70's Kawas, are they? If all what Ratchet said really was so important to be done, then the KR of course whould be a bit dangerous. The devil in such a nice disguise. But, as already said in some posts earlier, can you prove all your "I'm sure I'd probably had..."? Hubert

If it was an old bike and if it was a result of 50,000 miles maybe. On this new one there should be reason for this failure that needs closer inspection, at least in my eyes. But I do not run a shop. Hubert PS: I'd be surprised if the crank should need grinding. At least the old ones were more or less undestroyable.

Make sure that you have the correct version of the Titanium ECU installed. There is one for O2 probes and one that runs without them.

I just bend the filler's tube (when the owner isn't looking)! BTW, nearly all filler tubes at German gas stations are properly bent. Hubert

The nice thing with TuneEdit is that you can have it as easy as woth PCIII, just apply and download the proper map. Or you can use all of the advanced options. It's totally up to you. Hubert

I found this part to be of absolute no use, so I just removed it. The sidestand is big enough to be reached even without this feeler. Hubert

That's the one, yes. In my eyes it's a good offer, although it's not the best quality. It's quite heavy for it's size, the screen is very small. Mine was green, this year it's black, and black looks better. So maybe you don't need to get it sprayed. Hubert

I bought TuneEdit from Wayne McDonald instead of the PowerCommander. Not that this PCIII is not a good product, but I'm quite sure it does not offer the oportunity to alter spark advance and other things. The additional weight would be no problem either, as I have removed the right mirror TuneEdit instead gives me total control over the entire mapping, plus the possibility to use PCIII maps and more. All the details on his homepage. To make things short, I have it and with the help of it I converted a Ducati 900SS ecu into a perfect Titanium version for the V11. Just downloaded the proper map and that's it. Hubert

You'll love her anyway. And guess, she won't age! BTW, most of the V11 I know don't show all those issues, or at least have overcome them. Sorry, know no prices. As long as you have warranty the price for the service should be fixed, and any issues got sorted out for free. After that time just make the service alone or with a friend. Hubert

At work we actually have a project running in which a sensor shall stay awake even when you lock the car but let the roof open (insurance policy ). One requirement is the max. current in watch-mode, and this is more or less the most challenging task for the hardware engineers. Maybe we see a similar effect here. If you shut down the engine, the ecu not just dies but just gets a signal to shut down the engine, store the last parameters and maybe faults and so on. You could say "close all the windows". But for this it has to stay connected to the battery of course. If I find the time and nerve I will check at an opened ecu whether the cpu is alive when the rest is dead. Hubert

Don't disconnect anything, it's not worth the time. Do you have winter already? Hubert

Why in mm ? I found this: Main Entry: stic·tion ... Etymology: static + friction Anyway, the bike alone sets for 10mm, me and the bike make 20mm. Hubert

All you need are two of these tiny carburetors, and your motor may live for ever.

Those who're thinking seriously about buying will grab both of them.

The bearings are completely different. The old conic ones can hardly be mistreated, the ones on the v11 are different here. Ratchet's procedure sounds reasonable, albeit you'll need a bending torque meter. Or you believe him and take the values as he wrote them. Hubert

Of course not! It's been the 50 USD one.

Thank's for the details I thougt that maybe you're visiting Germany as well. Enjoy your hollydays Hubert

I'm back from measuring. Guess what?! Mine shows 8.6V ignition off and 10.3 or so ign. on. Funny, ain't it. Anyway, I never had any probs with this. I know folks that let their V11 stand over the winter without removing or even loading the battery and in spring they press the start button and drive off. Personally I can't complain about my battery, it's still the first one from 1999 and it's still doing a good job. When you measure between the two fuse socket pins, F1 removed, ecu attached, you probably measure between two different potentials. The difference is 8 or 10 V as described. I think it has something to do with the polarity of the semiconductors/diodes in the ecu. Maybe one of the electronic pro's could explain this better. I'm not sure whether it's an issue.

In german downtowns, of Berlin, Frankfurt e.g., they've actually started projects to learn german pupils the german language!! They can talk to each other, in german sounding phrases, but they're not able to communicate. They make exercises like "three sentence stories", introduction - climax - ending, and that's really a very hard job for most of them. If people can't comunicate, their society is dead... Hubert

Don't know what you are doing or measuring, but 10V sound quite odd to me. The F1 fuse is or at least should be directly connected to the battery! You def. should see 1:1 the battery voltage! Regardless whether you pull fuses or not, a good battery assumed you will see 10V only under currents the starter could produce! This would mean your ECU is buzzing some solid 80 Amps or so. What is wrong with my point of view?