luhbo

No, no, it's not HD bashing, never. It's not because of the bike.

What do you visit before you move over to Scotland. You're then not on the ferry since NY, are you? Hubert

Zero Amps. My15M Hubert

I'm sure all of you know about HOG. Did you know what it means in Gemany? This is the basis for a very inspiring thread on world-of-guzzi.de. The pix were taken at their X-Mas party Enjoy! http://www.wiesbaden-nassau-chapter.de/200...s/PC100194.html

Gas Cable Mimic? All the moving parts on top of the left inlet duct. (no picture at hand actually, sorry)

I've mine completely removed. Saves fiddling time and also the risk of a closed hose. So far without ANY problems. When I remember right the hose was on the overflow connector. I had it bended once. The result was that the rain water couldn't be drained. So when I opened the tank a really very good portion of water got inside. Somehow it went through as well. I think I was lucky then. Hubert

Who cares? Seriously, what is the difference whether it starts glowing 50km or 80km before exitus? Never mind. I've been looking under my tank today and I think the pressure valve will probably interfere with the gas cable mimic. Hubert

So the fastest way to reach an improvement would be to just switch sides for fuel indicator and reflow valve, enough space for it assumed. Should one strand because of any missinterpretation of the yellow light, this way he could at least effectfully lean over the bike to drain the right part. Maybe it's a good thing if he removes all the luggage before doing so. Hubert

I once paid 50 USD for a new Duc 750 unit. Is it a good friend of yours? hubert

I like the petcock idea because I don't like this idiot lamp going on and off everytime I break or accelerate and even more than this I misslike the cables that are connected to it. I already had to replace the silly electric valve with an old cubic aluminum petcock when the cable fell off one day. It's just the wrong procedure. Enter the bike, open the petcocks, press the start button with the left hand while supporting your body with the left ellbow on the tank. That's what people expect. Fortunately Guzzis still don't have a "wheewhee" starter. It's a question of how you've been conditioned... Hubert

David, this is definitely one of my favorit ideas that I could read on this forum. As soon as I have two conventional petcocks at hand I will try something like this. Another, probably more complex solution that I once had in mind was to somehow add a piece of tube to the pressure regulator, so that all that backcomig fuel is blown over the top right into the left part of the tank. Hubert

My favorite is the words for "drop-head coupe". Second comes "Shooting Brake". Hubert

Do you have the correct color number and the manufacturer? My neighbour's son went into his Ford shop and looked after Guzzi Green. The next day he showed up with a perfectly matching color card and number and manufacturer. But, it's not perfectly matching to all the green parts on my bike, just to the front fender. Fender, tank, seat parts, side parts... each shows a different green when in sunlight Hubert

You can't say anything until he's challenged. He's been born onto a fast bike. Hubert

Last time I contacted him he announced an autotune-option for both cylinders separately and also the possibility to log lots of megs of performancedata to an onboard SD- or whatever card (like in digicams). However, at least such things are in his pipeline. Hubert

Slowly this seems to turn out as an Adults Only topic, especially when we talk about pulling sparks out of screwdrivers used to bridge solenoid contacts. Nobody mentioned this method so far, but that's what probably most people would do if they try to make contact between terminals that are not explicitely designed for every day's connectors or connectors they have at hand actually. And yes, starters do jump when they get activated. Sometimes quite surprisingly! Hubert

Try this. Remove the green starter cover, press the starter button, hold it, and when you here the solenoid click then give the starter a boost with your favorite hammer or at least the one you have at hand. This cured mine once. Hubert And for sure you made sure that your battery is good, didn't you?

If you can hear the fuel pump, then it should be something different. Hubert

That's basically exactly the same as how I think things work. The V engine always has this 90° offset that makes it impossible to tune the cylinders properly. But, IMHO the very small volume of a 1 in 1 system probably would be more counterproductive to noise and power then the above mentioned 90° angle. Hubert

Breaking the rev wall makes not very much sense without either bigger injectors or an other pressure valve with 3.5 or 4 bar. Both will negatively affect the driveability at low revs and low loads. MV Agusta e.g. choose instead of big nozzles a second one for every cylinder. So they can precisely inject small amounts at low revs/loads and also give the engine the full load at WOT. Hubert Rereading the initial post I saw the word "carburetors". In this case it's different, of course! Sorry...

It was everythin stock (airboxwise), only the snorkels were removed, cause one fell down and got soldered to the pipe. I did test it with a probe, going closed loop with a my15m. Removing the whole upper half of the airbox may be something different, but you must love the resulting noise to bear it. Already without the snorkels it is too much for dayly comuting. You must love poh-plumbing as well to bear the look of that on your Guzzi. Especially with tape fixing. Besides, these PVC tubes are technically absolute nonsens when used as air intakes. This just cannot work the way some hope it would. Hubert

I had the snorkels removed once. It will give you more annoying noise and less air, means less power. You can proove it. If someone has an O2 probe installed he will see that without the snorkels ARF is richer. Hubert

My understanding is that removing the steel wool will not reduce the tendency for any resonance frequencies. Au contraire, you removed the damping elements, so any resonancies probably will become even sharper. If you take a closer look at the mentioned dyno results and investigations you will find that the stock crossover is not the worst solution. It seems to be better than the Mistral or Agostini x-over at least. Personally I really appreciate the mellow tone this part gives together with open cans. The other solutions are sounding to hard for my ears, to much Ducati. I'm happy with my standard x-over and can't find anything wrong at it. Hubert

Before you connect them, do check where they go. I'd not rely on colors and schemes and such. For me the terminals don't look as if they should be mated. Hubert

Yep, in carneval. Normally they are filled with honey (in fact it's rose marmalade) but sometimes you may get a mustard one. Nice surprise...