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Don't think it's a bodge anyway. I feel it's just Jaaps contribution to the actual ongoing lent. Brave he is. Have you noticed the subtile hint to the now gone days of carneval with its mustard filled pies? Hubert

I assume fixation is pertaining to the flash frequency. Search for Wayne Orwigs stuff. He has a DIY solution on his homepage. Hubert

Normaly bad batteries show a higher internal resistance than good new ones, so if ever than the voltage at the clamps should be higher with bad batteries than with good ones. IMHO The TPS sees approx. 5 V, produced by an internal V-regulator in the ECU. So it should also make no difference whether you have 11 or 13 V at the clamps. What could be affected is indeed the mixture, because of the relation of injector opening/closing time to injection time. With lower voltages and especially at higher RPM your mixture could become leaner, as the nozzles open and close slower. Hubert

This is probably just a translation of a MOTORRAD article in one of the last issues. Written without to much phantasy, in deed. Reeding it twice you could even say silly. The author found the Guzzi would somehow just work, and this was the only reason for his conclusion. Some copies before this an other author complained about the Griso that he couldn't find the sidestand in the dark, so what can you expect ?! Hubert

Sorry, can't really help you with your starting issue, but it should be not to big a problem. But, do reinstall the sidestand switch! This sidestand isn't comparable to what you may have had before on other bikes. The constellation you ride actually does kill! Hubert

There are new black ones in ebay actually for about 350,- Euros. Maybe it's an option. Hubert

If it's that easy you can have it everyday. Aprilia did it already, just changed the color and a bit plastic and, voilà, ready was the new Laverda. At least they thought so... Hubert

That wasn't as simple as it should be

Mine was not opened also. The dealer of the previous owner told him it would not be really necessary so they left it closed. Gears like it dark, he said. Now that I own the bike I ask me whether it would make sense to look after this anyway. Can anyone point me to where I find a detailed description of what parts should be changed, please? What was the quality issue that lead to the recall? Hardening fault, bad tolerances, or what? Thanks for your input. Hubert BTW, the box worked absolutely flawless for 55000 km so far. Thats why I'd like to know what the fault was. Maybe there is a chance that not all bikes suffer from that.

Unfortunately not! The biggest problem regarding this probably is the assymetric spark sequence (90° offset), so the filling of the right and left cylinder should be seriously affected by the resulting assymetric ressonance effects both in the airbox and the exhaust system. Just try to calculate the optimum length of the exhaust for a given RPM and you'll notice this. Next have a look in the airbox (so you still have one). Caused by the longitudinal cylinder offset it looks as if one snorkle gets less air then the other. BTW, the OEM map of the WM-ECU has a very differenciated offset map, so they see the need of such a possibility. And what about differences between the injectors? It would be interesting to see how they perform. All in all this is probably not overkill, it's just a must!

Yes, my rear brake has a fatal tendency to get stuck when used as a dyno simulator Hubert

Colder or hotter plugs don't really affect the spark itself! Hubert

Personally I see not that much importance of WOT runs over the whole RPM range, although some others do. You can start with about 25% throttle as well. Or 50 or 75%. Just make sure the gas grip position corresponds to a certain map cell. A WOT run in 2nd or 3rd would be just a bit quick. For perfect tuning results I think it is important that the engine runs more or less static while you manipulate the actual map cell. On the road or on a dyno the engine sweeps through a certain RPM range. 6th gear and going upside a hill flatens this sweep rate. It depends also on how fast your gas sensor reacts. Hubert

Exactly! Take a piece of ascending highway, put in 6th gear, "Wack" the throttle and let the controller do the rest! It's all that easy. If you want more but a WOT curve, then return, open the throttle only up to the next throttle break point and repeat the ceremony. If you want more but a (one point lower) curve, then return, open the throttle only up to the next throttle break point and repeat the ceremony. . (No dyno cooling time to look after! Just go on here...) . . What I forgot is the selection of the proper O2 targets for every cell. 13 everywhere is not a bad value to start with. I'm glad I bought mine! Jens, you'll like yours too Hubert

A good book couldn't explain it better, could it? My Schulze "Computer" regulated R/C model charger goes up to 5 Amps. An empty Hawker takes these 5 A at a very easy 13.4 V. Fully charged I see 150mA at 14.7 V Hubert

Stop riding it and open your box! What you describe is exactly what I once had. A lifetime experience, having caused it all myself! Opened a perfect gearbox just because it was winter '83, the box was out and I was curious. Of course I missmatched the shims (three in front and three at the end seemed reasonable). The result was boiling oil, blue gears (the groove) and lots of silly speech. A well and especially tight shimmed 5-speed box is a dream and would suite the V11, too! Hubert

All my personal experience says that this is a typical problem of proper shimming. Guzziology explains a very easy way to do it yourself, way better then any measuring and stuff! It could also be fact that the related claws are already worn out, but then the gear would also have a tendency to jump out. Hubert

It should be the same principle. The rubber sandwiched between two bolts. That's why I am so thankfull for the hint with the urethaneglue Hubert

The ECU is held with similar rubbers, but I'm not sure about the size. How does the other side of it look? Hubert

Look here: http://molotok.ru/catalog/view_item.php?id_sell=9588632 I wonder what they burn. Hubert

No, it's not the Watts, it's the Volts (you cannot separate them anyway). As soon as the voltage goes higher but 14.6 V the battery starts bubbling, in this case the Hawker will blow off the gas and so become dry. The concept of the Hawkers is different to common car batteries, but the chemistry is the same. If I have to use my uncontrolled car charger I add a bulb parallel to the clamps after some time. This helps to keep the voltage below 15V. But it's always a dangerous thing to use cheap chargers on such pricey batteries. Hubert

It always makes me wonder how those guys manage to climb vertical walls with these trial bikes. I never could see this in reality, but the pix in my books are quite unbelievable. Would be impressive to see one of the oldtime UK heroes on big 4-stroke twins doing such things. Hubert PS. All I can read about and see myself abroad makes me a strong believer that the promissed land for bikers actually is Germany. Nowadays they have radar pistols even in Italy, and those fellows there - they have fantasy prices if they get at you!

It's one of the reasons I now live in France 74058[/snapback] The stories one can hear about France and about how the Flics behave sometimes in traffic controls makes me wonder whether this is really an advantage. Isn't it the only country where you have "Motards en Colère" or so? Hubert

Not really. What caused his actual probs was more the disconnection (or shortening) of part 37. Hubert

I think this sounds reasonable enough, doesn't it? Hubert