Skeeve

Hi Dimitris! [What's a good greeting in Greek?] Two things for keeping air in motorcycle tires: 1) All Schrader style valves leak. The faster you go, the faster they leak [assuming the normal "vertical" style valve stem] due to centrifugal forces depressing the valve. Get metal valve caps with the o-ring or rubber gasket inside them to seal the valve stem, preferably hex shaped caps so you can tighten them with a wrench rather than pliers. Even finger tight is good w/ the hex style, since you can get better purchase than with round ones... 2) Almost all motorcycles & cars come with rubber valve stems. They're crap, but they're cheap & easily installed, so that's why the manufacturers use them. The 1st time you change tires, swap out the rubber valve stems for metal ones. They'll typically last the life of the vehicle, and won't develop leaks at the interface with the rim. Since you'll be spending a few $$ [or drachmas, rubles, euros, whatever] for them, you might as well spring for angled metal valve stems & resolve the access issues at the same time, so future air pressure adjustments are simplified.

I dunno about "totally beyond any affordable solution:" lots of folks seem to find the price of a Dynojet PCIII affordable, and the Tuneboy isn't much more expensive than a PCIII but gives you access to changing the timing curve... As for "how much is a little," there's a ready answer to that question, if presently unknown. Let's access the "dealer data" subroutine to see if that will work: Hey, Greg: is there any data on the advance curve [max advance] used on the "track kit" for the V11 Breva Sport? Supposedly there was one available when I read reviews of that bike a couple years back at its introduction, and if it was anything like the Ti pipe kit for our spineys, it came with a replacement ECU (or at least a custom map to upload...) If so, that's the 1st iteration [& perhaps only one needed] for a map for any earlier 1064cc Guzzi that has been dual-plugged, since the motors of the CARC models didn't change the bore & stroke specs significantly but came with dual-plugged heads ex-factory... If we dig deep into the archives here at V11LM.com, I think we'll find the topic of reducing the max advance covered in topics about dual-plugging the V11 back in the day. IIRC, it was something like 8deg less? [Reduced from approx. 37deg to 29, if memory serves. It probably doesn't], since I'm showing signs of the early stages of CRS, but whatever... ] Anyway, I'm not certain the "silly high-domed FBF pistons" are necessary to see beneficial results from this sort of mod: the ability to run on regular [with appropriate timing changes] or obtain the significantly higher mileage claims supposedly seen by the CARC models, or even just making passing smog testing easier for those who might live somewhere that bikes get tested could all be beneficial enough to justify the expense, depending upon the individual. Let's let Golem decide that for himself, shall we?

Don't forget you'll need to have the timing advance adjusted (slightly less advance) as well...

Bad ground(s). Remember that most of the idiot lights depend on grounding thru the headstock bearings [iirc], so if the bearings were/are properly greased, you inherit electrical gremlins. Run a ground wire from the instruments to the engine, & make sure that the battery ground doesn't just to frame but also has a wire to the block. I am the last person to ask for help when it comes to controlling the magic smoke, but this set of symptoms arises so regularly here & over at WG & other classic moto-related forums, magazines, etc. that I'm fairly confident in my diagnosis. It is quite simply, what I'd do in your shoes [& I'm unusually lazy, so I always take the easy solution 1st! ]

Hey, I resemble that remark! [important data point: I'm a graduate of University CA - Irvine. Mascot = anteater. You do the math... ] Or maybe that's only in my dreams? Anyway; thanks Pete for another riotous write-up! You really need to collect all your stuff in one place a la' the "Word of Gord" website. Might I recommend a publisher for the inevitable book deal?

Mmmm... Supermono!.. Only one thing handicapped that bike: a lack of excess! Really should have gone with a 1000cc single for that design... HEEEYYYY! Now that's an idea! Have Terblanche redo the Supermono as a literbike for Guzzi, call it the "Super Falcone" or something & laugh all the way to the bank! [All ideas copyright 2009 Bruce Brodnax, all rights reserved. C'mon, Piaggio, put me in charge of development! I'll deliver this baby on time & under budget! ]

OHC; you had it right the 1st time. All Harleys made since '74 ['73 was the last year of the WL ServiCar] have been OHV. Our Guzzis are OHV too, ya know... (OH V2? )

I like games.asobrain.com [no "www" in front of any of that!], but then I'm a nut for the board? table? game it's based on... The nice thing is, you can play against bots or humans, so when you're sick & want to take your time btw moves & doze off for a bit, the bots are patient as can be!

I don't think so: isn't it based on the new QV engine? That space is too small for an effective radiator; it's the oil cooler, if I don't miss my guess. Which makes sense, really: the faster you're moving, the greater the vacuum effect to pull air thru the cooler, and the engine really only needs the cooler when working hard pushing the bike at speed. At idle or noodling along in traffic, the heat will mostly go out via the cylinders, where it's less felt by the rider. Blame it on John Britten, it was his idea...

That's... different. On a technical sidenote: does that funky swingarm encompassing the shock mean he's turned the entire mass of the shock, spring & mounting into unsprung wt.? Not exactly what a Guzzi needs, is it? That's... interesting. Going for the Hypermotard look there, is he? Still, I have no need for a motorcycle w/o a passenger seat: a Guzzi isn't likely to ever be a track bike, so what's w/ the nonexistent pillion perches on these things? Guzzi (Piaggio) can't afford for Terblanche to be putting out "styling exercises" only; they need some real product, not concept bikes! BTW, what's the ugly finny contraption up by the headstock on these things? (I hesitate to call them "bikes," since I fear they're likely only mockups.)

Unfortunately, air-only springing on motorcycles is an abject failure: to maintain anything approaching proper sag, you've got to pump them up so much that by the time the shock is half-compressed, the effective spring rate is already heading for the stratosphere. Air-only springing works better on cages because they've got the space to hide big air reservoirs so that the full compression of the shock makes the volume run from 1/1 to 1/2 or 1/3, instead of 1/1 to 1/infinity, if you get my meaning. Believe me, I learned all this 1st hand. Still working on making the tools to install the Prog. Susp. spring kit on my GL1200 shocks; anyone seen that circular TUIT hereabouts?

That's the trick I use to allow me to keep my specs on when donning/doffing my helmet. Love the modulars; just wish they could be quieter! Ah well... You mentioned that you liked how AGV's 1/2 helmet fit; they make a modular now too. I loved my old full-face AGV that I used before I went modular, but I haven't seen their modular anywhere that I could give it a test-fit. Living in Lo-Cal So. Cal., if I ever get the time & motivation, I can always ride out to Chaparral in San Berdoo and test ride a buncha helmets in their showroom, but that takes all day so I only do it every couple years or 3. It's good for a chance to compare how different brands vary fitment tho' [like the Schuberth running super small, Shoei running slightly loose but giving me a headache until the foam in the forehead can break in, etc.] Personally, my biggest complaint about modulars so far has been the fact that while I'm by no means "blessed" w/ a Leno-esque jawline, they all seem to run to too little clearance btw the chin and face protector. Que sera sera.

What a fabulous part-time job! Hey, do you think you could teach me how to do that? I'm going to be temporarily unemployed next spring [involuntary furlough from the job]: mebbe I could engage in a little body artyfication myself over that period? How much do you have to pay your models, anyway?..

Only if you insist on running straight-rate springs... (sorry, couldn't resist! ) But yes, all else being equal, shorter travel will require stiffer suspension to prevent bottoming over the same bumps...

Schuberths are notorious for 3 things: Being HEAVY! Running incredibly small [as in someone using a Medium in a Shoei or Arai needing an XL in a Schuberth...] Being expen$ive. Dunno if any of that has changed lately, but since no modular is as quiet as a regular full-face, might I suggest a 20 cent pair of foam earplugs? Comfy & effective... And as Schuberth no longer has a lock on the built-in flip down eyeshades, there's really no reason to go beyond Shoei, HJC or Nolan for a quality flip-up helmet.

Actually, you can beat the Nolan N100 rather easily as the N102 finally solved that idiotic "chin bar release on both sides, but only the left one works" nonsense by going to a center release [like pretty much everyone else already figured out was best.] But you already knew that... Between my $90 Zeus and $200+ Nolan N100, the Zeus [while of doubtful safety] was the better choice ergonomically. The Nolan's build quality was far and away better, but I have sidelined it lately in favor of a KBC modular. Neither the KBC nor the Nolan possess the Zeus' capacity for use of the chin bar in the open position as a sun blocker and for ventilation in slow traffic, and with a flip of your head, close up once traffic picks up again. [sigh] Too bad DOT is a self-enforced [ie: "not rigorous"] standard... I'd be tempted to go w/ the Zeus again if I thought they could be trusted! It was certainly worth the trial to see if a modular helmet would be worth it as an eyeglass wearer. [short answer: hell yeah!]

Yup, racers sure have it easy: no expansion joints, no frickin' potholes, just nice, smooth asphalt with the occasional gentle ripple... Of course they only use straight rate springs; it eliminates the variables to make dialing in the fork for the utmost performance on that particular track possible. Of course, if tracks weren't utterly smooth in comparison to real world roads, or if they had to run the same equipment all season, then maybe they might opt for progressive springs. Ah, that'd be the life: having a chase van stocked w/ spare front ends so I can swap out the forks for a trip up thru Big Sur, and then BAM! slap on a different set for the run out Carmel Valley road! Woo hoo!.. [in case you haven't figured it out yet, I'm solidly in the progressive wound springs camp for motorcycles that aren't simply track queens...]

There is one, minor, downside: increased idle rpm leads to increased fuel consumption. Obviously, unless you're stuck in traffic a LOT, the difference between 1200 rpm and 1500 rpm isn't going to amount to a heck of a lot, but if you live somewhere that the fuel costs are much higher than here in the U.S., it may be a consideration.

All that ended with the VTEC model. In fact, the 2001 last of the line model has a higher used price than any of the VTEC models 2002-5, iirc. Honda really stubbed their toe on that one. I don't think the new VFR12 is going to be saving the company: with the same puke styling as the DN-01, the same pursuit of technology for technology's sake, and a sticker price that I'm certain will scare away anyone who can live with a little chain maintenance & non-matching luggage, I don't foresee a bright future for this bike. Soichiro-san continues spinning, as he has done for most of the past decade...

Cosmetic. It actually slightly increases drag, not that that matters much in the day to day world, but you wouldn't want to run one if you were engaged in LSR activities...

That almost exactly parallels my experience with the Griso when it was first announced: the pics of the concept/prototype bike were pretty hideous, in my opinion, & I couldn't fathom the exclamations coming from those who'd attended the Milan(?) show where it had been displayed. When they finally brought the cafe au lait prototype over stateside & displayed it at the CWIMS show in Long Beach where I could see it up close & personal, I realized that it was truly a magnificent wart: you know - it grows on you! Anyway, I became a big fan of the Griso's styling, despite my initial aversion. Still not a fan of the Buell, but it is less objectionable when seen up close in The Big Room.

I don't think anyone has done any major mod type parts for the 8v engine yet: it has only infinitesimal parts commonality w/ the old 2v engines [why did Guzzi jump from "valves per head" to "valves per engine" nomenclature? That was stupid! henceforth, the new engines are QV ("quattro valvole") to distinguish them from the old 4v V1000 engines...], and it's still too new to have built up a large enough owner base for someone to take the risk of developing expen$ive aftermarket parts for it that may never sell. Best of luck, but I think you're just too early to the field to find what you're seeking.

Geez, Greg, what a great ride report! You've definitely got some writing skillz; ever consider writing a book? Maybe something Guzzi-related? Oh wait...

Whoeee! Someone about photo-chopped a MGS-01 to death! Fuh-gleeeeeeee...

The "race" ECU that came with the Ti exhaust kit needs a Power Commander [or similar] just as much as the stock ECU, unless you're using it w/ the Ti pipes it was developed by the factory to match. If your bike has the Ti pipes and the matching "race" ECU, then you'll still benefit from getting a PC3, but only if you go the full route and get it Dynolink-tuned to match the PC3 map precisely to your specific bike. In answer to your question in the post that started this thread: No, the sensors don't make any allowances for changes to the stock set-up - any changes you make require changes to the fuel map. Guzzi used "alpha-N" fuel injection [aka "open loop'] on the V11s; even their latest models are only closed-loop at low rpms, going open-loop at something like 3k? rpms [which is where the engine starts making enough power to start to move the bike...] If your V11 runs well, why don't you just go out & ride it before worrying about making any changes to it? It may turn out that you love it just the way it is & won't want to spend money chasing any kind of hp chimera!