Desdinova

As long as the bike WAS/IS running fine, except for the idle.. there are a lot of common possibilities that at least from what I've read so far, you have not addressed. In no particular order. Fuel (different octane, different brand,etc) Ambient temp, humidity. Anything out of the "norm" since you last rode Air Filters !!!!! Fuel Filters !!! (not as likely) The throttle cable itself. (this is tricky, but if it's fairly new... or really old, they can stretch that little weee bit. There is an idle set, that may just need a pinch higher idle. What is your normal idle RPM ? Air leaks.. (go around with a torque wrench, and check everything that air passes thru. Intake, exhaust, crossover, In fact. If you have the torque wrench out, hit everything that has a bolt or nut. You'll be surprised, with the amount of torque we get from two cans, it can sure rattle stuff loose.

I've had a Ballabio and a I have a LeMans. Mis-Shifts for me are 90%+ position of my foot. In fact my lever is setup for the boots I wear, and if I wear shoes instead, it's all sorts of problems. Yeah!! I know !!! but seriously. Asjusting the lever position can make a world of difference. The other 10% is when I start to "find" nuetrals, it's because it's either time for an oil change or not enough oil in there. YMMV

While I haven't done this in a while, my #1 tip is disconnect all cables and make sure bottom is bottom. There was a tiny of tiny small burr on my cable mechanism and so one carb was never actually 100% closing. It tuned and ran great... with an occasional cough, but figured that was due to Stucci crossover, FBF pipes, intake, gas, PCIII map, etc etc... nope... that darn bur through everything off. Once I found it.. it was like a got a new bike. I cannot stress how infentecimally small this bur was. As I recall I only found it because the TPS dropped lower with the cable off and I only noticed it by accident.

In spite of themselves, they are a quite reliable machine. My favorite reads were of those by the guy from Seattle that used to make the "Alaska" run and he'd post about all the parts he came back with in his saddlebags... that just kinda fell off, but weren't really needed. I guess it's a matter of with a little love, they will get you home. My story is a Convert I purchased, rode home from PA to MD, then to VA to have it looked at because it wasn't running right. Imagine my surprise when they showed me I was only on one cylinder !!!!!! I mean the bike was sluggish, and barely made it up to highway speeds... but it got me home and out to a mechanic.. That was when I really started taking a serious look at Moto Guzzi and I finally "got it."

Honestly the best people to ask are Dynojet themselves in my experience. They know their products and know which product for which bike. I have a Power Commander on my 2002 V11. It's been so long since I've touched it, I don't even remember which PC it is. Once I dialed it in, it's been flawless.

There are a set of Buell mirrors that are nice. I have them on mine, but it's been so long I don't remember any of the info. I hope this helps.

Yeah.. it was a burr... nub, bit, edge, I think it might have been where the cable end hooks into the cam. The only way to know for sure is to read the TPS with the cables connected and everything (idle etc) backed all the way off. turn the throttle a few time to make sure it always comes back (by TPS reading) to the same spot. Doesn't matter what the TPS reads at this point, just make sure every time you twist and let go, it comes back to the same spot. Then take the cable off. The TPS should still be at the same spot. Manually run the throttle cam open and closed... the TPS should always fall to the same reading.. The problem with mine was now that I remember was there was a little burr on the cable end ball. It was preventing the throttle from closing 100% which isn't really normally a big deal, except when you set the tps because the Tps is expecting you started at 0% open.

YES YES YES !!!! Now it's all flooding back.. "adjusted to 0.157 v at closed throttle idle stop screw backed out & not touching " but even with everything backed out, the bur on the mechanism was preventing it from being really fully closed.

I may have some input on this. I'm so glad a still follow this forum even though I don't participate much anymore. I had this very issue on my '02 Le Mans. Now forgive me that I don't remember the exact spot because I solved this over 10 years ago, but either on the ball of the throttle cable where it attaches to the cam, or on the cam there was a bur that prevented the throttle from actually closing 100%. It was closed about 99.9% but that causes EVERYTHING to do with tuning and the computer to be off just a little because the TPS is at 0 but the throttle isn't. I don't remember exactly how I finally found this, but once I knocked the bur off, of course it ran like garbage, until I re-adjusted the TPS to where it's supposed to be when closed (I said it's been a while) and reloaded a map for my setup, and I essentially haven't touched it since. Hope this helps.. An easy test is get everthing setup as best you can. Measure the TPS with the throttle closed. Then take the cable off and measure again. It should be the same.

Wanna go right, push to the right... wanna go left, push to the left.

I have the Moto Guzzi Argal Adjustable Pegs and I'm 6'4" and pushing 60... and... pushing 300lbs.. and.... well that's that.. I like them and I think they look good too. http://www.baronaudio.com/lemans/

My two favorite places to look for this issue is the interrupts/switches on the clutch lever and the kick stand. Be VERY careful with the one on the lever. There is a tiny spring and ball bearing that pushes against the micro-switch. The other is on the kick stop.. It could have backed off... I bypassed mine... I wouldn't recommend that.

Check the clutch safety on the handlebars. Somehow the little "pin" in mine got wiggled around and it was the same issue. It's accessible from under the cluster on the clutch lever side, you'll see the wires going into a micro-switch. Just be careful not to loose any parts. There is a spring and a pin that engage the safety or disengage depending on your thought process when the clutch lever is pulled. It could be the micro-switch, but the way the did it puts very little wear on the switch itself. I'd check the little device the lever used to trip the micro-switch. Again... TINY spring and TINY pin. To fix mine, when I finally couldn't get a start... I just too off the switch (two screws), saw the issue with the pin.... re-set the pin back the way it should be and put switch back. Done... less than 15 minutes total.

Not exactly an answer to your question, but I found the wind lips to be like extending the shield. I've used them on just about every bike I've owned because I'm 6'4" and even extended windshields weren't enough. I don't remember who makes it, but every time I search on lip now I get a plastic shield thing... so maybe they don't make it anymore? Hard to believe, but maybe someone else knows who makes the stuff.