Desdinova

As long as the bike WAS/IS running fine, except for the idle.. there are a lot of common possibilities that at least from what I've read so far, you have not addressed. In no particular order. Fuel (different octane, different brand,etc) Ambient temp, humidity. Anything out of the "norm" since you last rode Air Filters !!!!! Fuel Filters !!! (not as likely) The throttle cable itself. (this is tricky, but if it's fairly new... or really old, they can stretch that little weee bit. There is an idle set, that may just need a pinch higher idle. What is your normal idle RPM ? Air leaks.. (go around with a torque wrench, and check everything that air passes thru. Intake, exhaust, crossover, In fact. If you have the torque wrench out, hit everything that has a bolt or nut. You'll be surprised, with the amount of torque we get from two cans, it can sure rattle stuff loose.

I've had a Ballabio and a I have a LeMans. Mis-Shifts for me are 90%+ position of my foot. In fact my lever is setup for the boots I wear, and if I wear shoes instead, it's all sorts of problems. Yeah!! I know !!! but seriously. Asjusting the lever position can make a world of difference. The other 10% is when I start to "find" nuetrals, it's because it's either time for an oil change or not enough oil in there. YMMV

While I haven't done this in a while, my #1 tip is disconnect all cables and make sure bottom is bottom. There was a tiny of tiny small burr on my cable mechanism and so one carb was never actually 100% closing. It tuned and ran great... with an occasional cough, but figured that was due to Stucci crossover, FBF pipes, intake, gas, PCIII map, etc etc... nope... that darn bur through everything off. Once I found it.. it was like a got a new bike. I cannot stress how infentecimally small this bur was. As I recall I only found it because the TPS dropped lower with the cable off and I only noticed it by accident.

In spite of themselves, they are a quite reliable machine. My favorite reads were of those by the guy from Seattle that used to make the "Alaska" run and he'd post about all the parts he came back with in his saddlebags... that just kinda fell off, but weren't really needed. I guess it's a matter of with a little love, they will get you home. My story is a Convert I purchased, rode home from PA to MD, then to VA to have it looked at because it wasn't running right. Imagine my surprise when they showed me I was only on one cylinder !!!!!! I mean the bike was sluggish, and barely made it up to highway speeds... but it got me home and out to a mechanic.. That was when I really started taking a serious look at Moto Guzzi and I finally "got it."

Honestly the best people to ask are Dynojet themselves in my experience. They know their products and know which product for which bike. I have a Power Commander on my 2002 V11. It's been so long since I've touched it, I don't even remember which PC it is. Once I dialed it in, it's been flawless.

There are a set of Buell mirrors that are nice. I have them on mine, but it's been so long I don't remember any of the info. I hope this helps.

Yeah.. it was a burr... nub, bit, edge, I think it might have been where the cable end hooks into the cam. The only way to know for sure is to read the TPS with the cables connected and everything (idle etc) backed all the way off. turn the throttle a few time to make sure it always comes back (by TPS reading) to the same spot. Doesn't matter what the TPS reads at this point, just make sure every time you twist and let go, it comes back to the same spot. Then take the cable off. The TPS should still be at the same spot. Manually run the throttle cam open and closed... the TPS should always fall to the same reading.. The problem with mine was now that I remember was there was a little burr on the cable end ball. It was preventing the throttle from closing 100% which isn't really normally a big deal, except when you set the tps because the Tps is expecting you started at 0% open.

YES YES YES !!!! Now it's all flooding back.. "adjusted to 0.157 v at closed throttle idle stop screw backed out & not touching " but even with everything backed out, the bur on the mechanism was preventing it from being really fully closed.

I may have some input on this. I'm so glad a still follow this forum even though I don't participate much anymore. I had this very issue on my '02 Le Mans. Now forgive me that I don't remember the exact spot because I solved this over 10 years ago, but either on the ball of the throttle cable where it attaches to the cam, or on the cam there was a bur that prevented the throttle from actually closing 100%. It was closed about 99.9% but that causes EVERYTHING to do with tuning and the computer to be off just a little because the TPS is at 0 but the throttle isn't. I don't remember exactly how I finally found this, but once I knocked the bur off, of course it ran like garbage, until I re-adjusted the TPS to where it's supposed to be when closed (I said it's been a while) and reloaded a map for my setup, and I essentially haven't touched it since. Hope this helps.. An easy test is get everthing setup as best you can. Measure the TPS with the throttle closed. Then take the cable off and measure again. It should be the same.

Wanna go right, push to the right... wanna go left, push to the left.

I have the Moto Guzzi Argal Adjustable Pegs and I'm 6'4" and pushing 60... and... pushing 300lbs.. and.... well that's that.. I like them and I think they look good too. http://www.baronaudio.com/lemans/

My two favorite places to look for this issue is the interrupts/switches on the clutch lever and the kick stand. Be VERY careful with the one on the lever. There is a tiny spring and ball bearing that pushes against the micro-switch. The other is on the kick stop.. It could have backed off... I bypassed mine... I wouldn't recommend that.

Check the clutch safety on the handlebars. Somehow the little "pin" in mine got wiggled around and it was the same issue. It's accessible from under the cluster on the clutch lever side, you'll see the wires going into a micro-switch. Just be careful not to loose any parts. There is a spring and a pin that engage the safety or disengage depending on your thought process when the clutch lever is pulled. It could be the micro-switch, but the way the did it puts very little wear on the switch itself. I'd check the little device the lever used to trip the micro-switch. Again... TINY spring and TINY pin. To fix mine, when I finally couldn't get a start... I just too off the switch (two screws), saw the issue with the pin.... re-set the pin back the way it should be and put switch back. Done... less than 15 minutes total.

Not exactly an answer to your question, but I found the wind lips to be like extending the shield. I've used them on just about every bike I've owned because I'm 6'4" and even extended windshields weren't enough. I don't remember who makes it, but every time I search on lip now I get a plastic shield thing... so maybe they don't make it anymore? Hard to believe, but maybe someone else knows who makes the stuff.

Oh geez... forgot about the spacer !!!! I just updated the original instructions I posted up top... but YES..... There is a spacer !!!! whew...

Same thing happened to me and it looks like you bent your bracket too just like me.. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE.... It's simple.. but can go VERY wrong if you are not careful.. 1. Look at your picture. You can clearly see where the lower bolt is just in the bracket, but should be going into the engine block as well. The head is just stuck there, the rest is still in the block. You can also see, that for that bolt to reach, that bracket needs to be bent back into shape. 2. Remove the Kickstand. It's just that one bit bolt now. DO NOT use the kickstand for leverage... Removing the stand from the bracket. If you have access to a table vice, you can bend this bracket back to a 90 degree angle. Do it slowly. Use a square to check for.... squareness.. If it breaks, it breaks and you're no worse off... but it should bend, it's kinda designed to. ( I should mention a disclaimer here I guess... MINE didn't break, I was able to bend it just fine). If you have a metal shop around and they can make it true again for a few bucks... do it.) 3. CAREFULLY remove the rest of the lower bolt that is still screwed into the block. There are lots of methods... my tact was to drill a tiny pilot hole into the bolt just large enough for my smallest Easy-Out to get in a grab it. 4. You don't want to damage the threads as there is not a lot to work with to re-tap it or heli-coil it... so you want to avoid that if possible. 5. Once the old bolt remnants are removed, hand fit your bracket back on making sure you bent it back into perfect shape so it sets flush on the engine and DO NOT FORGET THE LOWER SPACER. There is a spacer on the lower section between the bracket and the engine. As yours is missing, you'll have to measure and replace. You might use the bolts and adjust them finger tight to ensure perfect fit. I guess this is the point where I mention... you need to buy a new lower bolt. I forget what size it is, but you'll have the old one to take to the hardware store once you get it out... and you'll need that spacer too.. 6. Put it all back together. FWIW... A Sport Chock is a great thing to have. Just drive the bike on it, and it's upright. I only use my kickstand when I'm away from home, my bike it always in the chock. Kinda fun to just drive in and hop off.

Of course visually inspect to make sure the latch didn't get bent, but I seem to recall on my LeMans I "swapped" two springs on the bike. One on this latch, and I don't remember where the other was.. And a spring from a ball-point pen was involved too. This was years ago, but it was to solve a similar issue with the seat. I'm hoping to jog someone's memory on this..

If I may add to confusion. As stated above and DO ONLY AT YOUR OWN RISK OR PERIL !!!!! I just adjusted the switch on my Kickstand so it never engages. In this way, I can start my bike while it's on the kick stand. I still have to pull the clutch, and it better be in Neutral (I think.. haven't actually verified... don't want to know I just always make sure it is in Neutral), and it will start. I'm not a fan of removing parts to bypass them. If I decide I want the kickstand switch to essentially act like a kill switch, just takes a 10mm open end I believe to adjust the lock nut. Again...DO ONLY AT YOUR OWN RISK OR PERIL !!!!!

I like the grip wraps from Aerostich rather that permanent grip replacement. They are easy to use, easy to put on and take off. Two heating levels as well. Heated gloves are really the best, but these are nice for when you aren't packing for severe cold. They are small enough to keep on the bike and just install when needed. http://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-warm-wrap-grips.html

Sounds like the vent is clogged

Hi I don't post often anymore but I am subscribed so I get alerted when topics come across that I may actually know something about. Because there is some question of previous tinkering, before you go down the rabbit hole... DISCONNECT the throttle cables and ensure both throttles are closing all the way, with no cables attached. Get a good light in there and inspect visually. Ensure the throttles is opening and closing TOGETHER. Check the TPS voltage, then put the cables back on and then check the TPS voltage again and insure it is THE SAME. I had an issue that had your symptoms , and after nearly a year of putzing it turned out that when I came off the throttle, the throttle was "almost" closed, but not really fully closed. In my case it was due to a bur on the cable end .... This through everything else off exponentially. Once I cured that... the bike damn near tuned itself.. Set the TPS voltage and badabing.. nice idle. Hooked up the merc tubes... and balanced them right up. Hope this helps.

As the bar-end style didn't appeal to me, I went with a set of Harley mirrors. Now granted this of for '02 V11 Sport LeMans, but they bolted right onto the faring in place of the originals and they've been there ever since. I think I did the swap in 2004 or 2005.

My bike came completely stock and ran great when I received it.When I discovered a cracked TB boot and tried to " fix"it ,I totaled screwed up it's fueling.Once I got the proper FI tuning procedure down ,the bike runs perfect again.Still have a Mistral X-over and PC 111 waiting to install,but if tuned properly these bikes should run just fine in stock form. I totally agree that they run great stock... but as soon as you start swapping things like the Crossover and Exhaust and change the Air filter, it's a whole 'nother ballgame. In fact just changing the air filter is enough to change the air/fuel mixture. Now, as each bike is a little different, and there are other factors such as humidity and temperature involved, some folks can make minor changes and it still "runs" ok... but are they really getting anything out of the change? that's another story. I have ridden a stock V-11 and owned a Bellagio for a little bit. They ran fine, but I wanted a little more from the Bellagio and my research led me to FBF Pipes and Stucci crossover with a K&N AirBox. As luck would have it, a friend of mine (who may be reading this) had done this exact setup to his LeMans and for some reason was selling it to get a Duc so I jumped right on it... All I had to do was tune it. I have a feeling the previous owner never realized the potential of the bike as the throttle body issue I mentioned above was there from day one. But it's a whole different bike with the changes, especially on the low end.. an obvious amount of torque. Nothing wrong with a stock setup... and I agree, if a stock one is tuned properly, there should be no issues.

Although I don't post much here, I still monitor this feed. I must agree, when you get the PC correct, it's just amazing. This link is to my bike: http://www.baronaudio.com/lemans/ and the Dyno run posted is BEFORE I fixed an issue with the throttle body. I had to redo the maps "manually" as there isn't a Dyno center locally available, but I can say it's stronger now than it was before getting fixed. I don't want to side-track, but I wonder how many people with the "low end cough" that have a PC or not, have the same problem I had? At least for me the throttle bodies weren't completely closing when they were supposed too which essentially makes any stock map "a little off" and any custom tuning less than precise. There was a little burr somewhere, and I say that because I never actually found it. I was just examining the throttle body closely on the bike, with the cables off, I gently pushed on the linkage and there was a "click" and the body closed further. That "click" appearently was the removal of whatever was blocking the mechanism from closing all the way. Magically the TPS was now able to read exactly in the range it was supposed to be and I felt an improvement. Of course I had to go with a downloaded map at this point because the one referenced on the above page was useless. Bike wouldn't even start with that one, but I immediately felt a difference in the low end with the map I downloaded. So I just adjusted from there by putting markings on the throttle at each % and noting each rpm range and using a big parking lot... wash-rinse repeat until I was done. Anyway... congrats... there's nothing like a lemans that's in tune.