Kiwi Dave

Not sure of the pitch of the thread, but I seem to remember they were left hand thread. Which way do you rotate it to reset the odometer?

I agree, and I suspect it might be draining back into the alternator due to a faulty rectifier. Try lashing in an ammeter, but make sure you don't include the large cable that goes to the starter motor, just the others. Use heavy wire, and locate the ammeter where you can keep an eye on it. You should see several amps on normal charge, any massive discharge from the battery will show up as "negative" current, i.e. the needle will go the wrong way. If you don't see any discharge from the battery, but it still dies, I would replace the battery. It may have internal shorts. Does the battery get really hot when it discharges?

Had this symptom on a Cali 1100i once. It just had the clutch replaced, but dealer didn't notice that the bearing on the gearbox input shaft had disintegrated. I wouldn't wait for the big bang.

I've had the ABS working on my rear wheel after hitting an unexpected bump while braking hard. Felt a flash of rapid pumping in the pedal. Without ABS, the result would have been a skidding rear tyre. I'm not too proud to say I like it there.

For the same amount of light output, LED's are much more efficient, requiring less current at the nominal voltage. This equates to the LED's being of higher resistance. You could try adding resistors in parallel with the LED's to increase the load (i.e. lower the overall resistance), but the electronic flasher is a simpler and more efficient solution.

According to the spare parts catalogue, they are identical -01460560. Coppa Italia, Nero Corsa and the Cafe Sports have a different part number -01460580 -I suspect it's the colour that's different. There's also a red one, 01460581. Hope this helps.

I actually use the procedure you posted some time ago, Don. The only difference is the TPS is on the top of the RH injector body. Everything else should work out fine.

I'm even more miserable that this. I use the rear axle nut.

Back to the mystery part, I have an exact same part sitting on my work bench. So seems like mine has fallen off too. Everything seems to be working without it, but now my curiosity has grown.

Be aware that any adjustments that you make to the power commander settings by the three buttons are not reflected in the map that is communicated with the computer, but is effectively "on top" of any adjustments that the map provides. So it should IMHO be seen as a temporary experimental setting, the map should be the final setup as it can be saved and recalled at will. Has the bike been on a dyno? This takes a lot of the guesswork out of all the possibilities. My

I have a pdf page showing the resistance/temperature tracking for the older models (P8 CPU) if you're interested. I imagine they would be fairly similar. But having said that, why would they change 'em? PM me if you want me to email the pdf.

I'm curious. Why is the brake reservoir so much larger than the clutch one? Other than the obvious more reserve capacity in the brake reservoir for safety reasons, I would like to see this one shrunk to the same size as the clutch. Perhaps we would need to watch it more often, but don't we do that anyway before we go riding? Welll, I'm sure you do; me?

Didn't realize the V11 was around that long ago.

Yes, I have four of the lenses for those that ride on the right hand side of the road (to be specific BMW #63121243541) that were taken from my bikes when I imported them from the USA. I'd be more than willing to swap some or all of them for those suited for us left hand road riders (BMW #63121358148)

Yeah, I put a set on my 2002 Le Mans about the same time this information was published, after the original clamp started seeping petrol. Absolutely no problems with them, what a pity the later pump in tank type connectors weren't as easy to disconnect.

Contact Todd at Guzzitech or Mark at Moto Guzzi Classics (Long Beach California). They installed a V11 motor in a Tonti frame a couple of years ago.

400 miles? Sounds like you've owned it for at least a week. Take it back to the dealer, and make 'em fix it. This sort of behaviour is unacceptable.

So I should be looking closer at modern trucks that I overtake, rather than my Breva 1100 arse-end??

This may be a naive approach, but when you support a wheel on only one side, the single bearing must take a lot more load, especially twisting action. And for what, speedy wheel change? Like I need that? My Breva 1100 had its CARC casings replaced today under warranty due to cosmetic reasons only. I did ask the mechanic to check the bearing, but I guess only time and kilometres will tell.

Factory bag, was proud until friends noticed my map was in upside-down!

As a guess, I reckon NZ 91 is equivalent to USA 87 octane.

Fuel in New Zealand is rated differently to USA Octane ratings. You should be using 96 or 98 Premium petrol for your V11 in New Zealand.

Buy one of each. Then you will be able to form your own opinion!

A few years ago, I found that I could buy and have fitted two tyres on my California 1100i in New Zealand for the same price for one tire in Los Angeles (after the exchange rates had been calculated). This was for the same ti(y)re, Metzlers made in Germany (well, true in them days). The price differintial isn't so great now. But I wonder why the huge difference? Bike prices themselves aren't so great, usually cheaper in the States.