Kiwi Dave

Best I've achieved is 320 KM, approx 198 miles. There was still a bit of gas left in the tank, but I wasn't game to go any further and was thankful to make it to a gas station. Since adding the stucchi crossover and mistral mufflers, I don't think I could still achieve this mileage.

I have similar exhaust setup as you with the FBF airbox mod. When you get your PC, I can supply you my custom map if you would like to try it. Would recommend eventually you get it dyno tuned as they all appear to be individual (like us!)

Down under, it's the opposite, i.e. winds spin clockwise about a low pressure. So why is the gyroscopic effect opposite in the southern hemisphere if indeed this is the reason?

Could it be possible that the right cylinder ignition timing somehow has becom retarded (perhaps via a faulty ECU)? This would mean that the combustion hasn't completed, and would make the header get rather hot. Just a thought outside the circle.

BMW part number you want is #63121358148 for those of us that ride on the left hand side of the road. In case others are interested, the part number for the USA and rest of Europe is #63121243541.

The voltage should be read between the top wire and the bottom wire, avoiding the midde wire (well on my Le Mans, it is). The DVM should be connected between these two points, not between any one and the chassis. I pushed a sewing needle in each to take my reading. They're still there about 18 months later, but I haven't been back with my DVM. The motor is running too well, so why tweak?

Perhaps we should be using gauges that are calibrated (and accurate) in Bar(s) rather than p.s.i. Then tyre pressure settings would be compensated for altitude.

I have three EV Tourings, one with a single plate clutch, one with an original dual plate clutch, and one that the single plate has been replaced with a dual plate. Although not a V11, the comparisons are easy to make. The single plate is much lighter to operate (all are cable operated), and does appear to spin a little more readily. But can't say I appreciate the difference otherwise when riding, even in an aggressive manner.

I have a manual in PDF of the electronic fuel injection system for a Guzzi, which has a lot of detail for the ECU. Although not stated, it appears to be of the earlier P8 version, but a lot of the information could be applicable. It's around 2.5MB in size, and I would need to know where to email or FTP it if you're interested.

Access to the neutral switch is easy, and it can be quickly determined whether the switch has gone faulty (quite common), or something more sinister. From memory, I recall that oil escapes when the switch is removed, so be ready for this.

Something that mightn't be obvious is to copy the extracted zip files to your hard drive with the same directory structure that is in the CD1 or CD2 zip file. Otherwise the access to the PDFs will not function. Thanks, Paul!

Not sure if it's the same issue, but I had difficulty removing my axle when I recently renewed my rear tyre. Similar symptom, tapping on the nut end of the axle tended to push the swing arm on the right outwards. I managed to free mine up by using a hex drive on the other end of the axle and winding it back and forth as I tapped. I had just assumed it was a lack of grease, but looking back (I have a degree in hindsight!) it might have been something more sinister. Best of luck in your endeavours to solve this one, Brian. Please post your results once you find out what has happened.

I made a similar stand using two Nissan scissor jacks (Wot's with the Nissan scissor jacks, I wonder). They are merely attached to a piece of wood, and are spaced to lift under the frame near the footpegs. In theory, the jacks should be raised together, but a little slop with the battery drill doesn't make the bike tip too far over. The frame can be fastened to the jacks using removable cable ties or similar if tip-over security is an issue. I've used this jack to remove both wheels simultaneously for tyre replacment, and I'm about to do it again. I'd be keen to buy the proper TLM jack, but I'm not willing to pay the shipping. One of these days I'll make a proper one ......

Anyone tried the Bridgestone 014's? I'm considering these along with the Diablos, the 014's are a lot cheaper.

Actually no, I've removed entirely the RH one, and with the linkages removed the LH one shouldn't have any effect. I also removed the circlip and fast idle mechanism (choke) from the RH throttle body to be totally sure. One thing I haven't played with is the "throttle bypass screws" as I don't seem to be able to find them. I'm assuming they affect the idle mixture, and I would like to richen these slightly. Any directions?

My 150mV was set with all linkages removed. This morning I returned this setting to 475mV, which produced a voltage of 540mV with idle just over 1000 rpm. I used the SM-V11S map file from the Guzzitech site. Things are back to normal, and I guess any fine tuning will occur when I can get on the dyno. Won't be able to make your "Tech Day" Todd, as I've returned to Kiwiland. Summer is now in the southern hemisphere.

I believe it will be a screw fit. Try winding the knob opposite to the normal way to reset the odometer.

My stock V11 Le Mans was running so sweet before I started meddling with it! First of all, I added the Stucchi crossover and Mistral silencers plus a Power Commander; downloaded the appropriate map and noticed a benefit. Then I installed a FBF airbox eliminator kit. Again I downloaded a map close to my setup (I couldn't find one that matched exactly), and noticed further gains. So far, so good. I then booked in for a dyno test to fine tune the system, so before the test I decided to check the TPS setting as I'm sure it would have an effect on the dyno results. The setting was very high (475mV verses 150mV) so I backed it down to the 150mV recommended setting. I even temporarily removed the fast-idle (choke) setup to ensure that it was not influencing things. The dyno test has been postponed, and now in the interim my bike runs like a bucket of bolts! It spits back, hesitates, and explodes occasionally out the exhaust. I richened the "low" setting on the Power Commander with only limited results. Question is, should I return the TPS setting to 475mV before the dyno test, or perservere in the hope that dyno run will sort everything out? Thanks for any advice you can offer.

O.K. Antonio, I'll bite. What sensors are these?

My Le Mans also suffered this problem. There are connector blocks around the steering head where the loose connection will be. You will have to remove the tank to get access to them. Plug and unplug them a few times, and the problem should disappear. If this doesn't cure the problem, then you might have to trace out the circuit from the wiring diagram to find exactly where the volts are stopping. After you fix it, go and give your dealer a swift boot up the a**!

I trust you checked your gearbox input bearing when you replaced the seal? I had a Cali 1100i that had a shagged bearing, the seal was serviced along with the clutch and the bearing was not checked. It started to leak a little oil, and then a lot from the gearbox.

Haven't checked my odometer, my GPS sez that the speedometer is reading about 8% optimistic. Since they're both from the same drive, then perhaps the odometer is similar. I filled up with 19.1 litres of fuel, which gives an average of 16.75 kM/litre, or 39.4 mpg (US) or 49.3 mpg (Imperial). Which is good, but not excessive especially if you dilute these figures by 8%.

Speed cameras and Hawk radar remind me that speeds in excess of 110 kph on major highways (speed limit is 100 kph) can get rather expensive on the pocket. But this particular tank full did include a back road excursion where speeds much greater than this happened to sneak out. That same run, the Ducati machines were way behind. I dare question your accuracy Brian, I said 320 Km, not 330 Km. Where did you get the extra 10 Km from?

I can report slightly better mileage by adding a power commander to an otherwise standard (so far) V11 Le Mans. Previously, I had run the tank dry at 313 kMs, last week I made 320 KMs, and still had some sloshing around in the tank.

Thanks Brian, I'm impressed with your quick reply especially with photo. Your location is where I have it for the moment, the tools will have to stay at home until I'm done tweaking (over-optimistic?). If there's no other cunning place for it to hide, it will return to the cowling space to allow the return of the tools.