Kiwi Dave

I'm hoping that someone has found a better location for mounting the Power Commander rather than under the rear cowl. This location does not allow easy viewing of the LED indicators and the buttons. Much earlier in the forum I can remember Al describing an alternative location for the PC III. Perhaps there are other ideas too. Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Can anyone tell me the difference between the Bridgstone 012's and the 014s? I fitted a pair of the 012's which I was told was the replacement for the 010's. Seem to work well with no evidence of cupping on the front tyre like the 020 originals. But a couple of days ago, somebody mentioned that the 012's were a different compound to the 010's (and presumably the 014's). True?

I posted a query regarding this issue on the forum about 18 months ago, and then reinforced it Feb 02 this year. (see Low-fuel Indicator, Dull Low-fuel indicator c/w other lites, 28 Jan 2003). I tried replacing the sender unit four times now, the last time was due to fuel leakage, the first three in an attempt to cure this problem. I agree shorting the wires will give a bright indicator. My 2003 EV Touring also suffers this same problem, but I haven't tried to do anything about it. Suspect that MG have changed the design from a simple reed switch as Carl describes in the 1100i California models to something more sinister like a solid state unit. As all my replacements were warranty related, I did not have access to cut one up and confirm this. If you come up with a practical cure, I'd be interested. The LED idea is a good one, as it will not require the same amount of current which is obviously being limited by the sender. I think you will have to fabricate your own LED and resistor in a lamp base. Varying the value of the resistor will vary the resistance as long as you stay within the current limits of the LED.

The only way for this to happen is for your gearing or tyre size to change. No amount of engine tuning is going to alter the engine speed verses the road speed. Try taking out your spark plugs and run it down a steep hill in 6th gear @ 70 mph. You will observe your engine revs to be the same.

A good idea to check speedometers is to find one of those roadside radar displays that reads "Speed Limit XXX; your speed YYY". After all, it's probably the same technology the man is going to prosecute you with. I've found that prior Guzzi speedo's I have owned were about 10% optimistic, but the current '02 Le Mans and '03 EV Touring are surprisingly accurate. You can also get a fair idea by travelling at slightly above the speed limit (but not too much) and gauging the reaction of the police with their radar travelling the other way. Fun, but a dangerous game!

I thought the difference between an Imperial gallon and a US gallon is 20 ozs verses 16 ozs. If this is the case, then the figures above should be 40 mpg to 32 mpg. Better idea to have pint of beer in an English pub than a US one (and it tastes better, too!).

Brian, R U a policeman? Legal speed limit in Kiwiland is 100k open road, (unless you're chasing a darling lil' sheep). I tried to stay on 120k all day, and honestly, officer, I didn't go over 140k many times (well, perhaps even saw 150k). Not me, it's the bike!

Last Sunday I managed 353 kM (220 miles) on a tankfull, riding at higher than legal limits but watching out for the ticket writers. I was pleased with this result.

On my '03 EV Touring, the fuel line connects on the inside left hand side of the tank, at a rather forward position. But this is the output of the fuel pump, and I have no idea where the fuel pump scavenges from, or if there is any fuel left in the tank when the motor dies from fuel starvation. Still gingerly experimenting with the fuel range -it's always brave to ride it until it drops, but rather frustrating when you finally establish your range a long way from any gas stations. When I find out, I'll post the results. In the interim, I ask those with in-tank fuel pumps, have you found the fuel filter yet?

Look for the crease in the seat after a hard ride. That'll tell you just how stable the bike is.

This was my suggestion way back October last year. My theory was that once the LHS ran out of fuel, then by leaning the bike over you could slosh the trapped fuel from the RHS over to where it could be accessed. Sorta a poor man's reserve. Unfortunately, it stayed at that -theory only. You have to admire Al, who gets up and does something. I'm starting to get that guilty feeling ......

Al, I can confirm that there is only one line from the tank to the Y, then to the injectors. Just come back from the agents to order a replacement plastic coupler for the fuel line to the tank (it looks rather fagile, and as I expected, there's none in the country), so I saw the exploded diagram on their screen. I hear you regarding vapour lock, but it's something I've never experienced, even on my '02 Le Mans (fuel pump at the front of the motor version). Mind you, temperatures here in Kiwiland don't get as drastic as I've experienced in the Mojave desert so that might be why. Incidently, there's only two cables connected to the tank, too. I'm reasoning one for the fuel level sensor, one for the pump. So perhaps there's no petcock at all, the pump sorta acting as one, with no volts supplied. Some fuel does escape when the tank was disconnected, enough for me to place a short piece of hose temporarily on the outlet to contain it.

My '02 Le Mans came without cannisters or anything connected to the left vent. Since this is just a water drain, I guess it does no harm dropping down over the motor. Of course, I never overfill the tank -methinks a Y-setup might be a good addition.

Al, your comments intriged me, so I whipped off the tank for a looksee. There is only one fuel connection to the tank (not some sort of fancy coaxial dual fitting), that is connected to a Y-junction, and then to the injectors. The only other pipe connecting to the tank is a breather right in the center. Certainly cleans up the plumbing compared with other models I own(ed). But this investigation is now making me wonder where my fuel filter is hiding?

I've got a similar setup on my '03 EV Touring. It's interesting that on my '02 Le Mans, the fuel is returned to the tank via the pressure regulator, whereas this latter design with the fuel pump in the tank doesn't have a fuel return. This implies that the pressure regulator resides in the tank (perhaps as part of the pump) and regulates the feed line to the injectors (since it is the only fuel line available). Rather than returning the fuel to the tank in the older design, I'm wondering if there is a pressure regulator available that simply shuts off when the pressure exceeds the prescribed amount? If available, then I'm speculating the return feed to the tank could be dispensed with, providing another outlet for the RHS of the tank and that elusive remaining fuel.

My low fuel light doesn't come on until approximately 230 kM (>140 miles), and I run out a fraction over 330 kM (> 200 miles). Tested the latter more times than I care to admit! So I'm keen to extract that remaining fuel out of the tank, and I'm grateful for Al's pioneering work.

I'm curious to know why the advanced safety course discouraged you from using engine braking (in the quest of better safety?). For most street work, I try to avoid the use of brakes, chosing instead to use the throttle to control my speed, changing down gears if necessary. It's not the fastest way to get around corners, but it gives me the most pleasure. Am I a dangerous rider? (Those who know me, don't answer that!)

One of the reasons why I elected to take the free leather jacket in lieu of replacement cases. My motor is running so sweet I don't want to disturb it unnecessarily.

Are you trying to clean the motor or remove the remaining black paint?

This has just started happening to me, I thought it was my relays until I tried what you suggested. However, my connectors look fine, it's gonna take a lot more diagnostic skills for me to track it down. Wrrrrrring is fine, just (sometimes) won't turn the starter motor until I move the bars. I want to keep my clutch and sidestand switches operational, and my neutral light one too when a replacement finally turns up. BTW, where is this connector #57 located, Carl? Under the ECU relay?

I've got one of these engines, but despite this I had to double check be I responded! How do you manage to crank the starter with the cut-out switched to stop? None of my Guzzis past or present have managed to achieve this. I've got a lot of respect for Greg Field, but surely he would try out his tip before committing it to print?

Is your neutral light coming on when it is in neutral? The switch is known to fail, and will cause the symptoms you describle. Mine has failed in both senses, i.e. same as your situation and also failing to kill the engine when I left the stand down and slipped it into gear. You can confirm the switch is faulty if the light doesn't come on in neutral by removing the wire on the switch, and shorting it to the frame to confirm the bulb circuitry is O.K. I'm waiting (and waiting) for a replacement switch.

I reckon tires (tyres?) in the USA are overpriced compared to what we pay in New Zealand. Although not as much of a difference as it was when the US$ was stronger, I could buy two tyres here in New Zealand for one tire in the USA. Same ty(i)re was made in Germany (Metzeler). Go figure.

Rich, no disrespect for your obvious ability with your craft, but I wonder why you say the latter model seat are not rebuildable? I purchased a 03 EV California Touring, the one piece seat was pure hell after coming off a 1100i. But a local upholster here in New Zealand reshaped the seat for me, moving the ridge forward to give my wife more room on the rear, and lifted the front to stop me sliding forward on to the tank. I supplied him with some "Tempur" foam which provided much more support than the soft foam the seat came with. The result is 400% better (before the get off and stretch becomes a necessity). I would supply a picture, but have nowhere to upload it to.

Yeah, others have posted their lamp behaved like that too, but I'm yet to see it on any of my machines. I thought that perhaps I had to travel a certain distance on the reserve before the light would glow brighter, but how much further past completely empty do I have to travel?