Kiwi Dave

I posted a query regarding this issue on the forum just over a year ago. (see Low-fuel Indicator, Dull Low-fuel indicator c/w other lites, 28 Jan 2003). Replaced the sender unit four times now, the last time was due to fuel leakage, the first three in an attempt to cure this problem. I agree shorting the wires will give a bright indicator. My 2003 EV Touring also suffers this same problem, but I haven't tried to do anything about it. Suspect that MG have changed the design from a simple reed switch as Carl describes in the 1100i California models to something more sinister like a solid state unit. As all my replacements were warranty related, I did not have access to cut one up and confirm this. The cure? I reckon the only fix is to retrofit the older type sender unit, if they are still available. Not sure of the practicality, tho'.

Not that it will work for the V11 motor, but when I got my first oil filter service for my California 1100i 75th Anni, Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics added a large hose clip around the circumference of the filter. It was positioned so that should the filter try to unwind itself, the head of the clip would prevent further movement. Perhaps dropping the sump on the V11 might allow a similar arrangement, but I'm yet to go there on my Le Mans, my filter spanner works fine.

Interesting! I'm running Red LIne 75W90 "All Synthetic Formual High-Performance Gear Oil" in my tranny along with Red Lne Friction-Modifier Break-In Additive. But this stuff is the normal dirty yellow oil colour -have I been shortchanged? Blue sounds extra cool.

I have to agree with you Carl. Having a bike stored in L.A. as well gives me plenty of opportunity to ride on both sides (legally), and I have to say I prefer right handers when in the USA, and left handers here in Kiwiland. I use the camber on the road to cut tight into a corner which isn't available when taking a curve opposite to the side of the road I'm driving on. All the other factors mentioned by others may also be affecting the situation, but too subtle for me to notice, including torque reaction.

You might like to check out a replacement glass for the hanging jugs model. Part number is 63121243541, and is the same Bosch unit. I fitted one to my '97 California, cost US$27. It is held on to the reflector by a rubber ring (memory) and is easily removed.

I'd be curious to know whether the addition of the relays for the lighting circuits significantly increases the amount of light output from the headlight. Any chance of measuring before and after, docc?

Not so, Ian. My spring is white, and it's definitely a Sache. The name is written on the bottom of the unit, looking above the rear wheel and hugger. Yours could easily be the same.

The only way to know would be to measure the current at the two voltages to calculate the resistance. I wouldn't expect too much of a change. However the life of the bulb is significantly increased running at the lower voltage; not that this is an issue.

Actually, it's the other way around, the filament has a positive temperature coefficient. As the voltage rises so does the current which increases the temperature and thus the resistance (which of course reduces the current). The difference can be quite significant, and this is why most lamps blow on switch on due to the rush of high current through the low resistance presented by the cold filament. Lighting operators in television and theatre often "preheat" the filaments at low levels to avoid the high current rush and the likelihood of a failed luminaire.

On my 2002 Le Mans, I checked the wiring diagram against the colour codes going in to the relays and found the following:- Counting from the front, 1. Start Relay 2. Lights Relay 3. Sidestand Relay 4. ECU Relay 5. Injector Relay Now, I gotta work out some way of labelling these .....

That's what I thought too Ian, before I tried in practice. The only way I could even get near it was to remove the wheel, undo the suspension and drop the swinging arm as far down as possible. You may be able to do it without this procedure, but seeing what you're doing is almost impossible. The zerk (or grease nipple as we call 'em down here) sits in a tunnel within the swinging arm, and I found the only approach was to come in from the rear. Even then it took a bit of fiddling to convince the gun (I used a straight needle on a flexible hose) to sit on the nipple and position itself for the transfusion. Quite a nice feeling when you see the grease finally swelling from the seal. Possibly a hole could be drilled in the swinging arm tunnel to allow an approach straight on to the nipple, but once you've done it the next time's easy, and can coincide with tyre changes.

My New Zealand lemon also has these sequence at the beginning of the VIN, so these numbers are not exclusive to USA machines. I understand that the first two letters (from ZA to ZR) represent Italy, and that the third digit "U" represents Moto Guzzi (for Ducati they are ZDM.....). But what of the "KRAKR"? All my Moto Guzzis (past and present) have included the first "K", but then they differ.... Anyone out there able to decipher the code? This ain't the Enigma (I hope)

I believe (but haven't tried) that the fogging will disappear if the pilot light is removed from the tacho (i.e. creating an exchange hole). Personally, I cannot comprehend why drilling the plastic would affect the fogging unless it provides ventilation to the tacho as a whole, and therefore helps the equilibrium of temperatures?

I had my tacho replaced under warranty, new one is better but still exhibits some fogging. I remember a thread from Jaap who drilled a hole somewhere to alleviate the fogging, but couldn't understand exactly where the hole should be. From what I remember it was in the plastic, but the tacho's are metal (with glass front). Perhaps Jaap will reply, hopefully with photos?

Interesting to compare the VIN numbers. My 2002 Le Mans VIN number is ZGUKRAKRX2....... which is a lot different from the numbers mentioned so far. Anyone know what each alphanumeric represents?

I think you'll find it is actually SPRUNG weight i.e. it's not gonna let your suspension work any faster.

I too found the suspension settings too hard on my 2002 Le Mans as delivered. I haven't tried heavier springs yet, but I did reduce the preload on the rear suspension (spring length now 150mm, delivered at 145mm). Dampening settings are reduced to:- Fork Compression -4 clicks from softest setting Fork Rebound -3 clicks from softest setting Rear Compression: 16 clicks from closed (+) position Rear Extension: 24 snaps from closed (+) position I'm about 200 lbs so in theory should be looking for heavier springs, but I haven't managed to bottom out my suspension yet, and the softer dampening does not produce wallowing when banking hard into corners, even if I hit an unexpected bump.

Thanks for the tip, Paul. The PDFs I downloaded work this way as well, so somehow I must have got around the copy protection. The PDFs total nearly 3MB, so even when compiled and zipped I don't anticipate them being under 1MB, so I guess I won't be able to share them on this site. (Unless I upload them individually.)

Thanks, guys. This (angelfire.....) was the site that I had earlier found. But despite registering, the only file I could find for the Le Mans was the V11 service manual, which I already had. Lo & Behold, today I returned to this site, and there was the parts manual, not as a single file I could download but as 45 individual chapters. So like a robber's dog I was in like jack flash and captured all forty-five of 'em. Unfortunately, I can't find many part numbers to the bits referenced. Despite this, I intend to reassemble it as one pdf file. Jaap, would you like it uploaded to the files section when I'm done? Off to get a set of 012 tyres fitted. Looking forward to increased traction and confidence ......

Anybody know where I can download a parts catalog preferrably in PDF format for my 2002 Le Mans? I thought I found a site with one available recently, but when I looked for the file download area it disappeared, never to be seen again.

Anyone understand the neutral switch action to explain how this could be? My switch is failing when cold, (can't warm the motor on the side stand) but is faultless once the motor/gearbox warms up. Seemed to start this behaviour immediately after a gearbox oil change, but this might have been a coincidence. I was suspecting a faulty switch, but perhaps there's more to it .....

Good news. Armed with this new part number, I returned to the local agent. Still has to be imported from Italy (six weeks!) but a more realistic price of NZ$10. I can only speculate what bit they were quoting on the previous number that Baldini provided......

With all this talk of broken springs, I decided to check on the availability of one (PN04235101) for a spare for the '02 Lemon, especially with the holiday season approaching. I was right, there's none in the country, it will have to come from Italy. But the real partypooper is the price quoted, NZ$171.90 (about US$103). I saw an earlier posting that these springs cost around $10. Should I be suspicious about price gouging?

Visited the tyre shop this morning (Saturday), but only managed to find one item, which has just been posted to you. The guy who sold it to me reiterated that they shouldn't be used permanently on the wheel, but just for filling. He sez that the additional centrifrugal force from the added weight can rip the stem out. I didn't ask if this was conjecture or experience. If you decide you want another one after you see it, let me know and I'll order it in. Cost including postage is about the same as a couple of pints of Sierra Nevada. Perhaps you can compensate me if I make it to the next national?

I doubt if there is anything as sophisticated as a website. I may be able to check the local motorcycle tyre shop this weekend to see if they have any, and perhaps mail you one or two over. Incidently, I don't leave these on my wheels. I only purchased one so I could use the modern inflators at the service stations which are designed for tin cages and approach the valve stem at almost zero degree angle. Almost impossible to use on a motorcycle wheel with twin discs. If you intend to leave them on, then I reckon Al's suggestion of 90-degree stems being fitted a much better idea. At least they'll be included in the balancing.