Kiwi Dave

God speaking ..... Available in New Zealand for a few dollars.

The measurement should be done at a tangent to the arc that the wheel axle describes on the swinging arm. Methinks measuring at the reflector won't achieve this.

Actually for a Kiwi we prefer blow-up sheep!

All suspension systems (IMHO) have some preload, even at their minimum setting. Otherwise the springs would rattle.

It's my birthday today, 57 years young! Do I win any prize?

As I understand the mechanics, changing the preload doesn't alter the rate of the spring, only the amount of sag and therefore the available range of the shock absorber before it bottoms out (assuming the coils of the spring don't bind first). By swapping the spring for one with a greater rate will allow you to reduce the preload because the sag will be less, and it will not jack the rear up so much which should make for slightly slower steering. All this is in my mind, I'm yet to experiment with different springs, the only adjustment I've done is to reduce the preload (yet to bottom out)

Apparently, the way to set tyre pressures is to measure the cold value and compare it with the value after a good romp through your favourite twisties. The values shouldn't differ by more than 10%. If they do, then incrementally increase the cold pressure until the variation stays in the 10% range. I've been running 34/43, but think it's time to recheck whether I can sustain the variation at lower pressures. I want to stay upright!

Try this posting November last year. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...07a0b8fc0f16193 I ordered mine from Gordon at MG Cycle, cost US$169 + shipping. Works a treat, and provides a good base for adding pannier bag racking.

Must be all those quality beers you've consumed, KB. How many fingers am I holding up? One plate or two?

My new EV Touring also has a single plate clutch according to the specifications. Interestingly it rattles when the clutch lever is released, whereas the Le Mans rattles when disengaged. Both are quite smooth, no hint of grabbing.

Agreed. 141mm on an '02 Le Mans.

I've also just backed off the preload on my rear suspension. The specs in my handbook sez the preload range is from 8mm to 14mm from a free spring length of 165mm, i.e. a preload of 157mm minimum to 152mm. I measured mine as delivered at 145mm, so after removing the seat, tank, side panels, air cleaner and battery I got access to the castle nuts. I reduced the preload by increasing the spring length to 150mm, but I could have sworn that the castle nuts moved more than this. I'm yet to evaluate the results in anger on a twistie road. But I'm confused about seat height. Surely if the spring is under some compression at rest, the overall length of the suspension unit is governed by the limit of the extension of the shock absorber, and independent on the amount of preload applied. Where am I going wrong here ....?

Only guessing, but I think the headlight would be controlled by the starter relay (i.e. a relay that is closed when the starter switch is activated). This would allow all the juice from the battery available for the starter motor. My headlight on a New Zealand 02 Le Mans definitely stays on, regardless of the sidestand switch. My understanding is the sidestand switch in conjunction with the neutral switch and the clutch sensor controlls the ignition circuit only. One day I might investigate further, but I leave well alone that seems to be working fine.

Yes, except that when tilting the tank over you can regain that fuel to the LHS and the recirculating fuel pump will return it to the same side. Some might inevitably be sloshed back over to the right, necessitating further tilts. I only see this as emergency procedure when that gas station you were relying on didn't appear on the horizon, or some other miscalculation. I miss my reserve petcock on the range of Triumphs I rode many moons ago, and the miserable warning light on the Le Mans is too dull and cries wolf far too early. (In my case about 240kM for a range around 300-320kM.)

I accept the shortcomings of my earlier thinking. However, not to be beaten (yet), perhaps what is required is an internal pipe on the return feed that favors the LHS of the tank. It would work as normal until the division starts when the tide goes out, at which point the fuel would be returned exclusively to the LHS and available for the supply pipe. If this was successful all the available fuel should be able to be consumed, but my "poor man's" reserve would disappear. I might have a look to see how easy it would be to add the internal pipe next time my tank is off and the fuel is low.

What's the issue with the remaining fuel in the RHS of the tank? In desperation after running out of fuel, just lie the bike over on its LHS to relocate the trapped fuel to the inlet pipe. For those fastidious types who aren't keen on lying their pride and joy over too far, unbolt the tank and tilt accordingly. Or have I missed somethin'?

For those who doubt, here is a scan of the back page of an official Le Mans brochure (yellow highlighting mine). I can say that I'm not unhappy with the Sach-Boge unit, perhaps I don't know what I'm missing, but it suits my riding style fine.

Here's an example of White Power specifications for the 2002 Le Mans http://www.motorsports-network.com/MotoGuzi/#Le%20Mans

When I purchased my '02 Le Mans, I was informed it was fitted with White Power rear suspension. Now rumour has it as Sach-Boge model. With a casual glance, I can't see any markings on the unit. How do I tell the difference?

Look under "Cross posting a serious problem from MGNOC list, Loss of oil pressure under accelleration" on June 10. I've spotted the oil light on my 02 Lemon flash a couple of time, but try as I may, I cannot make it show when I want to. Since an intermediate oil change, and filling to the top level indicator, the problem hasn't reappeared. Fingers crossed!

I'm scoring exactly 7 litres per 100 km which equates to 34 mpg (US gallon) on an absolutely standard 02 Le Mans riding town and country mixed. Seems about typical, but I wonder why my California 1100i performs better despite being slightly heavier and naked. Surely the valve overlap ain't that much greater? What other inefficiencies could there be?

Try this posting November last year. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...07a0b8fc0f16193 I ordered mine from Gordon at MG Cycle, cost US$169 + shipping.

The low-fuel indicator bulb on my '02 Le Mans is very dull compared with all the other indicator bulbs. The dealer changed the sender unit and checked the bulb but the problem exists. There is talk that this might be deliberate. If it is, does anyone know how to adjust the reduction in brightness?