rossoandy

Shame my V11 one wont last that long...corners splitting aready... I gonna take good look at my intake rubbers in the morning cause as I mentioned earlier tonight the bikes idle is not as reliable as it was before I stripped her heads off and of course my inlet rubbers are cracked and now have been disturbed so may now be leaking.. They been perished/cracked pretty well since new but are getin worse.

Bodge point !! yip I agree wholeheartedly, but at the time it was the easiest way to fix!! Easily removable when I get the time to adjust everything as it should be....odd though cause never has worked even from new, idle speed went up about fifty rpm with me leaning as hard as i could on the lever..

On subject of insufficent cold fast idle i found that a small nylon cable tie wrapped around the little wheelie thingy worked a treat...simple fix!

Anyone got baglux tank cover they wanna sell?

Well folks all is well in Rosso land again... All back together and after a 10mile run and then an oil change/tappet check/head re torque I wet for another run this tme using many more revs....but..not found the rev limiter yet! Runs fine although idle at times a little erratic,even stalled on me at one junction. I guess I need to re set the injector bodies.linkages etc so will pay a visit to see Baldrick at Corsa in London...He got it as smooth as silk last time he tinkered with it. Idle seems a tad slower than used to be... Now...wheres that fireblade.................. Intereresting the comment on valve seating...I agree factory valve lappng went out yrs ago but unless the valves are coated with someting during pruduction I can see no harm in a light lap to confirm visually it is seated ok. I actually poured some gasoline into the ports and looked for seepage when I finshed as a way of double checking the seats seal and flushing any possible residue grinding paste outa the port. I happy with result but a little concerned shimming under valves may not b spot on anymore.. I looking forward to maybe joining run out to Hastings this weekend... Thanks to all my pals on here for showing interest in my drivel on here... Special thanks to the sites owner for creating it.

wwell done!! join the club of bevel box specialists!!

so wat we saying here is..DO NOT use an Optimate or similar batery tender with a Hawker Siddely battery? I've often hooked mine up when bike unused for periods and battery seems fine...

Nige i stil need a ferry ticket.......can you help? like to get 7-10 days in island...

Don't worry Pete, there was a nice grey ring around both lalves and seats after only a few second with fine paste,and in the middle of seat too!. I more worried about the valve spring packing, I put it all back whence it cam e but I've got new valves now so will poss need adjustment. But..its all back tgether now...hmm maybe I can dissmanle valves with heads on if needs be....Anyone know about this packing in detail? As for the pin it def didnt shear and I cant remember pulling it out and even if I had I wouldnt have laid it in the bottom of timing cover... I have carefully cleaned the thread for this nut and loctited it on! Its done up as tightly as I dared... Hubert can you enlarge on this please? I thought it may have something to do with spring rating/length/and ensuring they do not become coilbound? I reckon I can get vavle collars off and back on with heads on with a little imagination and a tool made up for the job.

Heads both been off and four new valves installed, intersting to see the 'packing' Guzzi place under the valves...almost like they didnt have the right length so looked around and found some washers to stuff under emm! hmm wondering if this packing is related to the length of the valves .... Anyway, gave valves a light lap in and reassembled the heads so ready to go on perhaps later today. Any one got the head torque to hand? guess it be in the manual if I can find it! tappets? oh long as the heads tight and valves got lash..... oh, must look for a stocking to strain the bits outa the oil so I can put it back too...

Nige, I just done loadsa work on rosso by using my rear paddock stand then using my little jack under front of sump to lift front wheel off ground I put blocks of wood under edges of sump,after I lowered bike ont o them I found I could safely remove the paddock stand to remove the swing arm et. ps this was all on my hydraulic bench and it was pretty steady although I did for safety add a ratchet tie down around the headstock......this cost me ZILCH Just off to put heads back on it.....4new valves...sigh

aww, let me run it in? Thanks jrt, it coulda been worse.....its a shame its happened to me twice on two different Rosso's. Makes me wonder how close the engine no's are.....hmmm I wonder if I have that info..I may have. Maybe Luggi left his torque wrench at home that day? But I will admit to riding the bike to within an ich of its life on accasions.....but hey its a big lowly stressed lump....isnt it?..... I love it, the way jap bike owners keep looking in their mirrors and that big ol tracter is still there! he he just this time Rosso ran outa breath....

Top marks Pete, I meant to say...pin was'nt sheared off, nut was at end of threads and I pin was laying in bottom af case, pins has to come out to loose valve timing,but only enuff to loose drive through cam and gear. shit happens and in the scheme of things coulda been loads worse!

All stripped out.....took less than two hrs to get heads off and check / rest valve train. Pin on camshaft was fine, found it laying in timing case! All four valves have hit the pistons! oops... Shall order parts tomorrow from Italia Corsa. Hopefully will rebuild over weekend.

cheers pete, thanks for info, nut was very loose! I havnt seen the pin yet but have horrible feeling it has sheared...remember the engine stopped..so timing must be a way out. valve or ignition...or both. Both times its happened after a real fast rev limit bouncing thrash with engine braking down through gears too. I wonder if the nut works loose when engine hits limiter as the crank et will be subjected to abnormal stresses as the ignition cuts in / out. Or is it due to high rpm when changing down/braking through gears.. Both times failure occured at / or a gear or two after a junction. Still think other people must have had same failure.. Oh, can you enlighten me, do heads come off wiv engine in situ? Manual talks of removing the engine...will make job twice as big if I have too. And...just confirm valve timing is the two marks adj to one another when crank/cam correctly positioned, forming line through centres of both.

ye ratchet I am pretty sure its an 'interference motor' but jus wanted confirmation. thanks. I havent yet pulled the chain and sprockets to see what locates the cam drive sprocket...can't recall from my last one! It may be a pin, yes. Has this failure come up before on V11lemans ? Surely I not the only one to suffer!! hmm,wonder if its something to do wiv my err..style of riding! Still, I not too bothered, it looks like being a relatively easy fix even if I throw a few valves in the equation. Still wouldnt change the bike....its called character!

Well guys...I got it partially stripped today, and yes, it was the camshaft nut come undone! I am going to reset the timing in the vain hope it hasnt touched the valves? Does anyone know if they fail safe? There is NO lock tab just a wavy washer to lock it done up. loctite threads I will... oh and then do a comp test..

Pah.....I just like pouring water on their fires.. Thanks Ratchet, if its what I think it is it'l be the camshaft or crankshaft nut that holds the timing gears/chain come undone thus loosing all valve timing and bending a few valves too. My last Rosso suffered the same failure and the symptoms are identical. Is this a common fault with this engine or do I jus ride it to 11/10ths too often! Why is there a timing gear conversion available I wonder.. I need to get it fixed quickly, just hope parts available here in UK. I will add to this thread soon...

Hi all, Got the rosso back on the road today, two hours later it was off again.... Took it out for a run and a couple of those Honda fireplace things had the audacity to overtake me! I cogged down and flew after emm....took one of emm round the next bend and then we braked hard for a junction, into first and wheelied up the road, into second and hit the limiter and....it died on me with an ominous rattle....oh shite Spins over on starter but with no sign of any comperession...reckon the camshaft nut came adrift.... oh well out with the toolkit...

Hey guys!!!! I've solved it!! Upon inspection of the manual and the tips here.....I had ommited the spacer between the bevel box and wheel! It was later found residing in the box of displaced bevel box parts! Upon fitting alll was well! hooray! Quick ride around the block and all is well apart from the steering feels wierd....spose better check those tyre pressures huh...last done around seven months ago...

Hi , thanks for info. Got it all apart ok but the wiring did not have the connectors I was expecting to find there. The fault was later found inside the loom itself just forward of where it is cable tied to the coil pack. I had to strip away the covering to find a soldered joint on the brown high beam wire had broken! I resoldered using a heat shrink soldered connection and all is now good on the lighting front. I found upon reassembling the instruments that the holes in the black pod are barely big enough for the studs to pas through for the retaining nuts so I ran the 6mm drill through them to make assembly so much easier. It was so good to finally wheel the bike off the bench out into the sunlight once again. First time in about 6 months!

Like to say fine but.... I struggled to remove the old uj from the gbox end which was showing signs of possible failure. The design of the yokes the joint cups sit in does not allow you to push from one side the cross and other cup out. I found the cup would only protrude about a mill or so which wasnt enough to get a grip with the vice jaws and so twist/pull the cup right out. So I had to resort to holding the shaft in one hand at around 45' angle whilst tapping (hard) the top of the yoke next to the cup,this jars the cup upwards and outwards so it can be gripped and removed. However, be warned the shaft itself is a hollow tube and dents VERY easily should you miss your aim! The yoke itself shows a few bruises but nothing to worry about. Once I had removed all the cups I fitted the new ones and pressed it all together in the vice,replacing the circlips with new. Howeve, the joint still had a tight in one spot and not being happy I removed it and carefully filed/emery clothed the interior of the yokes where the cups sit before pressing in another new joint. This time it was perfect! I could see upon closer inspection a perfectly straight line in one of the bearing surfaces on the new x piece from the first u/j,I suspect it was faulty as I could not imagine how I could have caused such a mark upon assembly. So...I have one new u/j fittd to the front end of the shaft and thats how its gonna stay as the rear one is easily greased and is showing no sign of wear. IF IT AINT BROKE...DONT FIX IT! So to finish..the joints jack supplies fit fine,just carefully inspect before you fit!

Help! Anyone know how to strip down the tach/speedo pod? I have traced an electrical fault to being the connector shown on the wiring diagram as inside the pod. I have no dip beam and the fault appears to be located there. However having removed the speedo cable and the four 8mm nuts on the base the thing would not come apart so I removed the three allen screws on the top...still no go! How does the trip reset come out? How does the speedo come out ( the tacho has lifted clear now). Anyone help? It looked like there was a panel to come out of the base but it doesnt move so guess not a way in...

Wonder if its cause we can't tighten the castle/pinion nut as tightly as at the factory Pete?

And the moral of this sad tale........ IF IT AINT BROKE..... DONT FIX IT!!!