BrianG

What did you end up using for sealant between the cases?? Let us know how it works out for leaks.

Mine does not use banjo's. I hope there's clearance!

A shot of the stock installation from the left side, with the side cover off would be good!!

Can someone post up a picture of the routing of their rear shock reservoir line. I'm swapping in the Penske, but I'll be darned if I can recall or figure out how this goes on!

Not much!!

There seems to be a vast difference in bearing "pre-load" depending upon which type bearing is in use. It appears to be related to the size of the "contact patch" of the elements. Rollers having larger contact patches than balls. That said, in the environment of the steering head, there is not much radial load, but mostly axial load. In this circumstance, one would suppose that zero-lash would be the goal, as opposed to significant pre-load. I have liked the practical results provided by an old Honda specification. The old VFR specified 4 lb. ft. resistance to steering head motion. That's a whole lot less than 20 lb.ft. torque on the stem bolt! I use 20 lb.ft as the initial set torque to satisfy bearing race seating. I then back off to zero-lash (by feel) and just add very small amounts of turn to the headbolt nut until I get the 4 lb.ft. turning resistance. You don't want to see my system of stick-strapped-across-the-forks / string / pulley / coke-bottle-filled-with-4 lb of water.......

Nice stuff! My German sucks, but I didn't see the levers anywhere!

Indeed, they are both......... and then Buell goes and copies the idea last year with their Ulysses!! Not quite riding season yet, up here!

I had the CRG Hindsight Mirror on my 2000 Sport for a while. Didn't provide me with enough information so I replaced it with the stockers.

Correct! and in the bevel-box as well!

Check your PM's buddy.... I have sloppage plates!

I need it ALL...... every bit related to the fairing......... I want to convert my V-ll Sport to the Lemans fairing. I have a "new in box", complete Magni fairing kit to trade.

That's SWEET!! I gotta find me a Lemans fairing!! I have the 3-pce Givi bags mounted but I need that fairing! I have a Magni unit but that actually makes the riding position lower than stock, and that's not what this old back wants!

Looks to me like that dial reads 1.00" per revolution................. by 100ths" on the outer scale and by 64th" on the inner Very strange unit!! I'd say current reading is somewhat shy of 0.190" or spot on 12/64ths" (3/16") 0.19" X 25.4 "/mm = 4.826mm ~ 5mm as shown on the metric scale.

A good day in the garage........ Clutch is reassembled and mounted. Transmission is reassembled with new sealant and mounted........ that went WAY to easily,,,,, something's wrong in there! Maybe I should drop it out just for gigles! ..................and see that I put the cltuch plates in properly!

1.5 it is......... but do you think anyone in this town has the right all-thread????? Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! Luckily I have a lathe to stretch out the 50mm bolt I found......

Does anyone know the size/thread-pitch of the theaded hole on the clutch side of the crankshaft? It does not seem to be 12mmX1.75 (the standard pitch for the 12mm size) I'm trying to make a clutch-centering tool........

I hate oil filters that don't have a safety-wire lug!!

OK... the parts are here...... anyone know how this goes back together??

I strap the front wheel in a "wheel chock" and lift the spine to an overhead rafter. Catch the spine above the transmission. Or just let the engine rest on a milk crate.

OK you pirates! At least we have the suspension specs in one place here! I found a great place for nuts and bolts for the restoration of this thing. I managed to rip up a lot of socket-head (Allen key) fasteners in this adventure because Luigi forgot the anti-seize! There is nobody in Canada that can source the metric sizes and varities of heads that the Guzzi uses. I found this place in the USA http://www.boltdepot.com and they have all of the sizes and varieties that the bike requires, in steel or stainless, and in unit or bulk quantities!! Ya, I'm going glitzy with all stainless steel fasteners, just to go with the new powder coating of the porkchops and frame bits.

Careful with that edit!! The tool is to release the input shaft from the CASE..... not from the transmission cover! All of the shafts remain captured in the "transmission cover" and should NOT be removed for purposes of re-sealing the transmission. It is not necessary. There are no seals or gaskets that need attention in the "transmission cover". FYI there are 4 of those "ring-nuts" at that "transmission cover", one securing each of the 4 shafts. There are 3 sizes of "ring-nuts" in total so the tool I used is only one of 3 needed to totally liberate the shafts. I got the output shaft from the dealer along with the gaskets. I am looking for the input shaft seal at the local bearing dealer.

Anyone know of a source for stainless steel fasteners for the re-assembly? There were too many fasteners assembled without anti-seize coating that many of the allen-sockets were damaged.

Got it apart! The issue was getting that ring-nut off of the input shaft. I borrowed the right tool from a friend and it spun off without big effort. The underlying "internal body of the clutch" pulled off by hand.... no puller needed. Once the shifter forks were removed the case lifted off cleanly and easily. I used 4, 8mm X 60mm bolts in the 4 threaded holes of the output side of the transmission plate that carries the shafts, as a "work-stand" to keep things upright and level. Now I just have to glue it back together.......

Great! I'm a tool nut anyway... Who is Rolf and how do I get ahold of him?