BrianG

It looks like all the shafts will stay with the middle "plate". You will have to remove the "internal body of the clutch" (it looks like a "gear" but it engages the clutch friction plate hubs) from the input shaft. It is secured with a ring-nut with tabbed washer under it. You also have to remove the shift forks. And remove the odometer transmission, and keep the striker washer positioned inside the gearbox. Then it looks like the "case" will lift off of the plate-and-gears assembly. I just can't figure out how to get the front ring-nut off!! I can build a "holder" for the "internal body of the clutch" out of an old friction plate hub.

Good luck with that.... I'm at the same place and am stuck....... Let me know how you get the ring-nut off of the input shaft..........

It's definitely NOT silicon RTV sealant! It's much like a Permatex product that is called a non-hardening gasket sealant. Yamabond 4, Threebond 1104, Honda 4, Kawasaki semi sealer and Suzuki sealant are all the same. If you can find it Threebond makes a sealant 1 step better called 1211. In aviation they use a 2-part sealant called pro-seal, but it's wicked to get off if you have to do something inside again.

Mounting what tires???

Geeeez, Louise!! I was SURE I'd be the only one OLD enough to recall the days of one-tire fittment where the front tire mounted in reverse rotation to the rear. You might note that the modern sport tire "V" groove pattern is usually pointed opposite, on the front vs the back, so maybe things haven't changed all that much over the last 5 (hahaha) years!!

OK, with 18,000 miles showing on the clock, and God knows how many since the trannyrecall was done. With the transmission in my hands, I can see that there were 3 points of leakage: (Redline traces leaks well!) -the transmission output shaft seal -the lower left corner of the transmission cover-to-gearbox cover plate interface -the lower right corner of the transmission cover plate-to-transmission case interface The gearbox cover comes off easily enough......... I can't make out the guidance on the Service Manual about removing the transmission case, howver. It appears as though you support the transmission cover with the input shaft pointing upward, and lift the case off of the cover plate, leaving the gear shaft aseemblies in the cover plate. Is this correct? Does the input shaft just pull out of the transmission case after removing that ring-nut? If so, which size is it?? the Service manual specifies 3 sizes: 01 91 34 30 Tool for tightening the ø30 ring nut on the gearbox main shaft 4 01 91 38 30 Tool for tightening the ø24 ring nut on the gearbox main shaft 5 01 91 37 30 Tool for tightening ø22 ring nuts on the gearbox secondary shafts I measure the: - input shaft at 25mm - space between flats on the ring-nut at 33mm - OD of the ring nut at 38mm Plus... the other ring-nuts on the transmission shafts (on the other ends) are of two sizes, both smaller than the input shaft ring-nut. That might imply that the o30 tool is correct, but there is nothing there that measures 30mm.............. AND who makes sockets for these things?? Not Snap-On...... Not Craftsman

I am just about to start the same project. My 2000 Sport was oozing tranny oil last year as well. Now that I've had to do the clutch this seems a good WYAI project. It's good news that no special tools are needed. Are there any gaskets in there that I should have on hand? YamaBond is the stuff! It can even seal Norton engine cases!

I have replaced a similar type isolator with a polyethylene sleeve that I turned out on my little lathe. I just reuse the center-sleeve from the OEM rubber unit. Automobile racer-types are always doing this with suspension components to sharpen up the suspension and steering.

Check your PM's. The game is afoot!

Fancy that....... Jim, out working!! What is the world coming to? Perhaps you can ship me the lot he wanted, and I'll send them out from here.... It's close enough to Jim. How many was he wanting? Will I have to mortgage the house??

Thanks for the comments, Peter. A knowledge resource such as found here is, indeed, invaluable. So, how about your wisdom on......... 1. is there any OEM indicator for location of the ring's gear clock-position on the fly-wheel? I did mark it on disassembly but after this I'm not so trusting........ I found a stamped "D" by one drain hole on the flywheel, but no corresponding mark on the ring gear.... 2. Any thoughts on replacing this dual-plate clutch with a Roso Mandello single-plate type unit?

There are 2 theories that I've heard. The first relates to the sometimes used moniker of "GP shift pattern", and is in reference to the foot position when up-shifting from a hard-over position as one comes accellerating out of a left hand corner on the track. In a left-hander the GP shift pattern provides more ground clearance for the left foot by preventing the need to place the foot under the shifter to upshift. As you know, the downshifting is all done before you throw her down, into the corner. The second theory relates to early shift patterns found on the various marques of the 60's and 70's, whereby anyone not riding a Norton was obviously a wanker.

Did the batch going out to Jim, in Canada, get launched as well??

OK..... now I've done it! I marked every bit that i thought might be a "replace exactly as disassembled" issue except this one! So... what are the real assembly parameters for locating the swing-arm between the pork-chops?? I didn't measure their original protrusion measurements.....

This will do it. It does require ever so little Dremmel or grinder work to the transmission-shaft heim joint to clear the frame weld down at the bottom.

Great catch Pete! I looked closely at the 2 friction plates splined hubs and the pressure plate and, in fact there is definite witness marking. This would have been immediately evident in the preceeding pictures had I not inverted the friction plate that was not rubbing. Looks like the field-Luigi was unfamiliar with proper assembly process. Speaking of which... is there any OEM indicator for location of the ring's gear clock-position on the fly-wheel? I did mark it on disassembly but after this I'm not so trusting........ I found a stamped "D" by one drain hole on the flywheel, but no corresponding mark on the ring gear.... I think I'll be ordering the new Griso/Breva friction plates together with some sundry fasteners and back it goes. Any thoughts on replacing this clutch with a Roso Mandello type unit? By the by........ gentlemen, PLEASE use some kind of anti-seize compound on the steel fasteners that thread into the aluminum castings!! Some of my extrications were NOT PRETTY! and I have a great number of allen-head fasteners to replace, here!

It's immaterial........ I'll order the new plates right away. What is the best source for these, in the USA? I doubt I can get them any easier in Canada. Shall I replace the springs while I'm at it??

Well, there's good news and there's bad news.............. The good news is that I can't identify an "issue". It looks good.... no notches on the splines....... the fiber plates look good and so do the friction surfaces. Nice and dry..... no oil from any source. No loose bits...... I'm not sure what the part numbers on the friction plates means...... if it's a factory assembly notation or if it indicates a "field repair". I did notice one thing about the clutch-pack assembly, though.... The two "fiber" plates were assembled with the inner spline "flange" facing away from the middle "steel" friction plate. I thought that each flange was to face the transmission side (rear) of the assembly?? Anyway...... here are some pics.... comments are appreciated.

Well, I decided to open the inspection cover............. This is as far as I got today. Boy there are a few "while you are at it" issues to attend to!! Maybe I'll split the transmission cases and seal them up, too!

I don't know what these stupid insurance companies are up to here in Canada, but they are basing the cost of insurance on the PRICE WHEN NEW, for motorcycles. I imported my USED 2000 V-11 Sport from the USA, so I have NO IDEA what the Price WHEN NEW might have been. Anyone know the answer to this? Even USA price might help!

Thanks Greg........ but here at -30 C with 2' of fresh snow on the ground, I think I'll just split the bike and have a look.

I guess we'll see what we see when we split the thing....

My sentiments.......... so......... what else could result in the specified symptoms??

Is this reasonable at 20,000 km??

Last season, I experienced a strange feeling that I'm thinking may be actual slutch slippage. Once the bike was up to operating temperature, I would get the occasional strange feeling upon normal clutch engagement. This feeling was a cross between engagement slipping and rear-end squat. I have never experienced such a sensation before, and I've experienced clutch slippage on any number of motorcycles... from '70's Nortons and Triumphs through Yamaha RZ series 2-strokes, through modern inline-4 sport bikes..... albeit none were shaft-drive bikes. Also, when that sensation was absent the engagement was not "smooth", but rather more like the pulsatile feel of a slightly warped brake rotor. Once engaged, there did not seem to be any further slipping. I am in the throes of splitting the drive-line, but I'm wondering if anyone else is familiar with this sensation? Any ideas of what I'm likely to find once I get in there? Also, I cannot get a clear understanding of which clutch system is in this (2000) model year of V-11 Sport. Is there a clear preference as to which clutch product one should be seeking as the replacement unit?