BrianG

Ah yes.......... the wonders of the man-machine interface!! All I can say is that I'm glad it wasn't something like this at 10,500' over the Rocky's in the Comanche!!

+1 Cough up!!

My thumb slipped off the starter button and nothing in the start sequence would work. No fuel pump charge cycle, no noise form the starter, but all the accessories worked. Only got as far as checking all the fuses and swapping out all the relays before it struck me to look at that obtuse kill switch...... That really sucks, in the rain!!

Switching to the GP shift pattern is simple on the V-11...... just flip over the shifter-shaft arm. There's a bit of a tight fit at the lower frame piece, but that's easily addressed with a very little file action to the shifter arm. Be careful to maintain, as close as you can, a perpendicular angle between the linkage rod and both the shift pedal arm and the shifter-shaft arm. I cut my teeth on a '72 Norton, and while I managed to switch sides, I could never convert patterns.

I'll get on it as soon as it snows! Riding season is tragically short enough here in the Great White North, as it is. I don't need no wrenchin' gittin' in da way of da ridin'!

The manifold/tank interface will be the same diameter as the tank-entry hole. I doubt that purged air would be sucked back, but it'll be something to watch for.....

Yes, that was my concern....will the return-side end up significantly higher (fuller) than the other side due to the constant FI system flow?? If this is a potential issue, it might be worth it to have the source and the return on the same side........ which is doable, but a plumbing challenge.

No.. this "manifold" of mine is the regulator mounting point.... regardless of which side it goes on. It is simply a block with 2 holes opening into the stock fuel tank opening. It is essentially a "T" between the return-fuel and the supply fuel using the fuel tank as a plenum for precisely your reason..... mixing cool fuel with the return fuel. Also, the regulator requires a solid mounting point..

One last consideration in this "T"ing of the source-fuel line concept.............. Does anyone have any concern with the possibility that the fuel pump will suck air from which-ever side the return-fuel is NOT returning to, once that side is depleted? Obviously, the FI return-fuel side will remain the fuller of the two. This was not a problem with carb'd set-ups because it was all a gravity feed system with a very low flow rate. I'm not quite so confident about the FI low requirement.

Perhaps I am missing something that's more simple than my idea! I hope so! Where would the third leg of the "T" go? In my proposal, the "T" fitting would be between the left petcock and the fuel pump and the right side petcock which takes the mounting point of the fuel pressure regulator. This would source fuel from both side compartments of the fuel tank. That leaves the fuel pressure regulator without a mounting point. If mounted to this "left side mainfold", FI return-side fuel is placed in the left side compartment of the fuel tank, which I suppose is non-critical now that there is drainage from the right side. Actually, now that you mention it, the manifold ought to be on the right side, to preclude re-routing problems with the return-side fuel lines. THANKS!! I love this forum!!

That little manifold is going to have to be something of a work of art.... there's precious little room down there for it and the regulator. I bought a milling machine... now all I have to do is figure out how one works! My idea was to use barbed FI fittings with fuel-injection hose and crimp-on hose clamps. The good news is that this is not a pressurized line. This type of "T" arrangement was standard on my old Norton and Triumph which used one side petcock with a high stand pipe for "fuel-on" and the other side petcock with no stand-pipe for "reserve". Plus it had those tee's for feeding the twin carbs.

No, the holes and mounting flanges are not all the same. There is one larger hole into the tank (IIRC it's the level sensor), and the mounting flanges for the petcock/regulator have reverse threads on one or the other. I had to buy a second flange to fit the second petcock to the right hand side of the tank. I have not completed the conversion, but my thought is to divert the return fuel flow to the left side, through a small manifold block fitted between the tank and the original petcock, then tee the right side thank/fuel cock to the fuel line just past the left-side petcock. This sounds easier than it is because of the spine. I'll post it up if I ever get to it after getting the FIRST project done!

I just took advantage of the offer as well...... 82 left. Bought my rear tire from Alberta Cycle in Edmonton

1. The current flow through the LED is LOWER than through the incandescent so the resistance is higher. If the current flow were higher the flasher would work. 3. There is enough power available from the battery to light any number of little incandescent bulbs in parallel. This means that the one bulb isn't drawing current away from another, at least not enough to notice. Consider the headlight (huge current draw) runs in the same circuit with the tail light (much less current draw) and both light to their full capacity. Also a LED will NOT light with back-flow current. Being a light emitting DIODE, they allow current in only one direction, and produce light only in that direction. If you didn't know this about LED's.... are you certain that you observed the proper polarity when you installed the LED's in the signal light positions? Excepting the possibility of mis-installed LED's, I don't know what's wrong with your set-up. If I were a betting man, I'd suspect a poor ground somewhere........ probably in the instrument pod area. This would cause current to seek some other path to ground..... like some unsuspecting light bulb. I replaced my signal lamps with LED units and simply placed a 10ohm resistor across each of the 2 tail light's pigtails. Didn't even use them on the front. Hope this helps some....

$22.99 net of taxes..............

Thanks guys!

OK... the dount parts man couldn't tell which oil filter was the right one for my 2000 V-11 sport. The Dealer is 100 mi away so I picked up the longer one of the 2 possibilities. There are 2 numbers on the thing UFI 2328700 and MG cross 30.15.30.00 Is this the right one..... before I open things up???

This was a forestry industry response to a group of "environmentalists" called Earth First. They were protesting loggind in the interior of BC, near Golden, and all of them wore green tee-shirts with an Earth First logo, which was a pictorial planet earth with "EARTH FIRST" text arched over the picture. The local forestry workers either got a hold of a bunch of these tee-shirts or reproduced them, and then had "We'll log the other planets later" silk screened on the back, or under the logo on the front. It was a humorous, non-violent confrontation of perspectives.

Let's try to keep this discusion on some reasonable intellectual level. If you are incapable of that, please refrain from posting your trite comments.

I put LED signals on the rear of my 2000 V-11 Sport with the front ones left incandescent, and it works fine.

Congrats on the recovery!

Hey Jim, meet you at Kaslo this summer!!

I ride a black V-11 Sport that has red trim. I drive a red Porsche 928 with black trim. Both are kind of narrowly appreciated by the common folk, but very cherished by their fans. I've re-built the Marzocchi forks with Traxxion Dynamics valves, and installed a Penske shock. I think I'm done! My winter project is screwing a supercharger onto the 928. I herd around a V-10/5speed, Dodge, 3/4 ton, 4X4, short-box, Quad-cab, to pull the 5th-wheel camping RV, and/or the vehicle hauler.

Try me!

$1k