BrianG

I did this swap on my 2000 Sport. Both functions were vastly improved. It will now stay at any selected fast-idle setting, and the seat latch works smooth..... YMMV

I was looking to put them in the collector. Didn't look at the head pipes! Are they supposed to be there in a 2000 V-11 Sport?

I just purchased a LM-1 and LMA-3 from Innovate Motorsports. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/index.html Together, it's a wideband A/F meter and 5 function sensor logger. I bought it to tune the supercharger that I screwewd to my EFI car, and I want to use it to programme my PC-III. I'd prefer to use a bumg for the O2 sensor, rather than the tail-pipe sniffer attachment because it's more accurate, and I can just leave it installed as I drive around and log various operating conditions.

Does anyone know what material the stock V-11 Sport exhaust system is made from? I wonder because of the gold-tone of it. I want to weld a O2 sensor bung into the stock collector and don't want to mess it up if it's actually stainless steel or something............

I love the Metzler M1's! Great tread-life and decently sticky with good feedback.. Tried a set of Pirelli Diablo's but while they were really sticky, they lasted

I had them pit in Max's new cartridge valve pack and 1.05 springs, in my 2000 V-11 Sport. This made a night and day difference in the ride. I have a Penske shock, with 500lb spring sitting in the garage awaiting installation. I hope for another order-of-magnitude change in the ride from this, too!

I noticed a significant difference, but that was becasue my compression damper was totally shot. Any significant bump made the forks top out, and that was UGLY. I had Mike do my VFR with F3 internals and new springs, and my 900RR with a revalve and springs. Both also got the penske shock treatment. I'd have to say that each bike he's done has come back feeling like a new machine. I have the Penske for the V-11 as well, but haven't put it on yet. I'll post up here once that part is done.

That's about the same strategy and same cost as Traxxion Dynamics did for me over here, across the pond.

I bought my PC III from Todd and got the custom map for my mods from him. I had the opportunity to put the bike on a dyno, and discovered that while the custom map was mostly OK, there was a section that was off-the-scale lean. I spoke to Todd about it and he said that there's nothing to replace a good dyno-session for building a bike-specific custom map.

I just replaced the Metzler M1's with Dumlop 209 GPA's..... WOW!

Do let us know how that drain install goes. I've heard that the upside-down cartridge fork won't drain from the bottom, but that doesn't make a lot of sense to me, either!

Pretend it's a Brit bike. They didn't have neutral indicators, back in the day. Come to think of it, neither did Jap crap.... And you could start them with the kickstand down........... in any gear........... wow..... we sure got stupid since then!

HELP!! Can someone interpret all of these silly heiroglyphics on the fuse-block cover??? 2000 V-11 Sport In particular, what is the forward-most fuse for?

The next question would be "So what?" Is there some upper limit that one would watch for? A point at which one would shut down and wait for cooling? Or is this Oil Temp thing simply a case of morbid curiosity?

Does anyone know, off hand, the diameter of the transmission drain plug hole. I need to pick up a new crush washer and I'm not near the bike.

This 2000 V-11 Sport is my second Guzzi, following a 1986 LeMans, back in the day. I do not recall noticing this on the LeMans, but the 6 speed gearbox seems to have a "lurch" to it when shifting, sometimes. It is as if the act of shifting is completed only after releasing the shifter pedal. Plus the damned thing leaks onto the exhaust cross-over.... but that's not news!

Sounds pretty normal to me.............. You could put it on the dyno and program in a 15:1 section through your typical cruising RPM at partial throttle, but you might expect a bit of a flat spot there at WOT. When I messed with my PCIII on the dyno, I didn't see the FULL-RICH (12:1) @ WOT that I've come to expect from a multi-dimensional EFI map.

Could be worse....... you could have to see if you can live on what you've saved!

Indeed, absolute numbers are pretty meaningless, unless you are comparing various tests on the same dyno machine. The most valuable thing about the dyno is the ability to apply a controlled load, all the way to maximum output, repeatedly and consistently. It's that capability, plus the A/F information that makes tuning so much easier. I bought a LM-1, wide band A/F meter, which is great, but it's hard to gather all the info on a moving vehicle, especially for max-exertion paasses. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php

Drilled Airbox 6 holes X 1.25" diameter K&N air filter Mistral's That's all, folks!!

FYI.... The straight-rate springs we used, as supplied by Traxxion Dynamics, were FZ1 spec. So, physically, they are the right size. I cannot comment on the OEM spring's rate in our application.

Quite right on the draining technique. I don't even leave it sit over night. Just pump it out really well, upside down. Leave it upside down while pumping out the other one, and then go back to refill and re-assemble the first one. I have a "tool" for compressing the spring/spacer that facilites the placement of the collet. It's too simple to explain, but I could post a pic if anyone's interested. It still takes 2 people to do it, but the wife can be #2. (although NEVER tell her I said that!!)

I wonder what "BOLT" you are referring to? If you mean the "NUT" on the damper rod, you are assembling the spring/damper-rod/fork cap improperly. This may well be presumptuous, but here goes anyway. The Nut is simply a Jamb-nut to fix the fork cap on the damper rod. You should back off the nut, way down the threads of the rod and spin on the fork cap. Then run the nut up flush to the bottom of the cap. You can then remove the cap and slip the spring over the damper rod. I fix the brake caliper bracket of the fork leg into a vice (with soft jaws) and then attach a piece of tie-wire to the damper rod above the nut. I slip the spring over the damper rod and attach a bungee cord from the loose end of the wire to the ceiling, to keep the rod extended. I then compress the spring below the damper rod nut, and slip in the retainer/collett. Then I remove the wire and spin on the fork cap. Then I use wrenches to jamb the nut agains the cap. Hope this helps somebody out there, and didn't offend anyone with the presumption.

The two significant issues in fork-spring determination is Free sag and Loaded sag. Ideally, Free sag is in the 10-15% of full stroke range, while Loaded sag is in the 25-30% range. The value picked within this range is the first contributor to suspension compliance. The trouble with too much preload, in the pursuit of proper Loaded sag, is that it will decrease the Free sag number as well. Too little Free sag results in the fork prematurely "Topping Out" during rebound motion. Coil-bind generally isn't an issue in a street bike fork. Mostly, this discussion has considered the Compression side of the fork/damper cycle, but the rebound side is equally important in a high-performance environment, and that's where pre-load fits into the picture.

Then, check the second-last fuse in the fuse box. If it is NOT intact you will notice that the instrument back-lighting is gone, as well. Replace the fuse and try it, since you might have inadvertently shorted the wire during your tinkering. If it blows the fuse again, a short persists. I had this issue after some minor tail work and luckily thought to read the Guzzi Tech archives "just in case". Turns out that the back-light bulb socket in the instruments frequently self-destruct, leaving the live wire against the housing.... ergo dead short-circuit. Rather than start at the fuse and follow the wire from there I went straight to the instrument pod and those backlights. BINGO! What could have been a multi-hour goose chase became just a few minutes of work. Hope this helps!