Cliff

Usually popping on overrun is due either to exhaust leaks or being too lean. In your case probably the latter. You should use the PC to make the bottom end say 5% richer.

Shorting generators/motors is what you do when you want to brake so there must be more happening then just shorting.

When your bike is cold ( before first start of the day ), check the resistance of your oil and air temperature sensors. They should be the same and correspond roughly to this table - http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/temperature.htm Also check your bike's rolling resistance - are any of the disks warm?

You do realise that the 2 bars displayed top left are to help you match the breakpoints?

I'm not sure linear breakpoints are the way to go. Thats a bit unnatural. 500 - 1000 is 2x range where as 7500-8000 is less than 1/10. I think even ratios makes more sense. For instance each break is 10% more or some such. A bit like the spacing in musical notes.

I'd temporarily remove the PC just to eliminate that as an issue. There could be a little dirt in the injector. Try running some injector cleaner.

Just remember Optimiser firmware is closely tied to ECU firmware. To be safe don't use it to make changes to the ECU, just as a readout.

That hissing isn't the fuel pump is it? I would expect any leakage from the fuel line to at least make quite an odour.

Given the supposed leakage of the lighter stuff, I'm probably up to 85% nitrogen.

ok sounds good. wasn't sure if you were a kit builder or not.

If the voltage booster is working, you should see >15V at D17. If not it will be slightly less than battery.

Yes Sw1 is on for openloop. Don't forget to check that boost voltage in the ECU.

Good suggestions. Greenmonster, Is switch 3 off on your Ecu? Kickbacks, suggest you need tdc=1 or the voltage is dipping too far. Is your voltage booster on the ecu operating? Check the voltage on the right side of D17. Try a battery tender before starting to see if that improves things.

Your postings of last month indicate that you had goods starts. Go back to the map you had then. Then make small adjustments if necessary. The changes you are now mentioning are huge. Its no wonder things aren't going well. Why were you going on about the offsets recently when you haven't got past the starting phase?

That's a different scenario than just tinkering to see what it might do. I prefer the "identify the problem", "fix the problem" approach rather than the "I'll change everything to what I think they should be" approach. The latter involves too many assumptions.

No. If you don't understand it, don't touch it. 0x1600 actually tells the ECU where TDC is. In this case 0x16 is 22. TDC is on the 22nd pulse. The 00 is a fractional part. Now don't touch. The zero point for the pressure is 1024 naturally.

I don't have any intentions of going and I'm sure those who use my new forum will be leaving either. I'm just trying to provide a bit more useful for those who use MyECU. Most of the stuff in this thread is too specific. You're welcome over there btw.

One of the nicest things about MyEcu is not having to worry about the intricacies of oil temperature sensors. The tuneboy is a nice product and I've met the developer. The My15M and the tuneboy hit the streets at the same time. Had the tuneboy been earlier there probably wouldn't have been a My15M. The main pluses with MyECU is closed loop and the Optimiser. Sure the later bikes have closed loop but how does that work. Do you actually run the tuneboy and PClll together? Why?

There should have been a map in that email

Have you heard of MyEcu? See my signature

Try 143 http://www.cajinnovations.com/ECUControl143.exe.zip or http://www.cajinnovations.com/ECUControl143.exe If that help doesn't help you may need later firmware.

The offset values should be +/-% eg +5 or -5 Maximum is 7 What version of ECUController do you have and when did you get the ECU?

Hi Guys I'm trying to set up a forum for MyECU as these mega threads are pretty hard to take in. I'm new to running a forum so I'm not too sure how it is going to go. This is a big experiment for me so if it goes pair shaped it might disappear. At the moment it will require some registration steps. Please be patient. You should be able to get to the forum here - www.cajinnovations.com/yabb0 .

John, you should be able to retard the ignition if you simulate a lot of throttle. A pot will give you some adjustability. Try and pick a similar resistance to TPS. RecIgnition is currently for "ignition" type inputs. Hadn't thought of doing a version for EFI type inputs. It might be possible, code space is very tight.

It sounds like a poor earth; particularly the front fairing frame.