Cliff

The coils are 0.7ohm so at 14V the will run to 20A. This is 2x what the FET will take continuous. So there's a maximum time before the FET current rating is exceeded and the FETs have a burst current rating. I prefer to err on the lowest setting.

Its the FET that is the weak link. I let the MyP8 driver longer because it has external boosters.

Send me a high res pic from this location (no connector in my shot) I think a lot of the newer bikes seem to have a constant load on the battery. If it is not ridden daily you should put in on a charger before starting.

You should try TDCWhileCranking=1 if you haven't already. When did you get your My15M? There have been some improvements made to improve low battery conditions. Some may apply to yours.

TDCWhileCranking= value only affects the spark. The spark will fire at TDC when this value is set to 1. Otherwise the advance is taken from the spark advance table - 0,0 (i don't think throttle affects this but I'm not sure at the moment). Kick back could also be due to too much fuel, Try reducing the prime and injdur 0,0 values by 10%

That line in the map defines the pressure sensor characteristics. The 15M uses 3 different types. All are linear. In that line you define the 2 endpoints for it - voltage,pressure.

Please note the following is specific to the Ecu type. This one is for 16m or 15M and will not work in MyP8 . Some minor editing is required. # TDC is the pulse count for TDC power stroke of cylinder 1 ( i.e. When the spark fires # CylOffs is the number of degrees between success cylinders ( 0-720) # PulsesPer is the number of pulses for the 720 degree 4 stroke cycle MyECU Cfg TDC=0x1600, CylOffs=270, PulsesPer=48, MissingPulses=3

I have a Cali running the myp8. All of the MyECU type are about 90 % common in both software and hardware. Your map above doesn't show any obvious errors. What are your 4 switch settings? As you made the ECU as a kit you also hare the possibility of a hardware fault. I'll send your email to a fellow italian in Switzerland. You can send your Ecu for him to check on his bike. That should be a lot cheaper than sending it to me.

for me every thing is leading up to the spark. So 0 degrees is TDC just after the spark. The piston starts the inlet stroke at 360 and goes to 180

The InjAdv can be tuned from the Optimiser. In the Injector menu, I think button 2 or 3 allows you to cycle between duration, advance and o2 target

InjAdv is degrees before TDC that the Inj pulse ENDS. This setting doesnt have a great deal of effect. This is why earlier MyECU just had a single entry rather than a table. 300 is just before the inlet opens and is the logical place to inject fuel. I found the bike felt crisper. 600 is well before and roughly where the OEM injects. This will give a few % better economy than the 300 as it allows more time for the fuel to vapourise.

Hello all. Believe it or not I've only just become aware of this thread. The main problem I picked up is that of documentation. This has been a weakness of mine and even in this thread I see most of you doing a better job. I also notice that this thread, in bringing you all together, has become a great resource to you. Perhaps going forward, a dedicated forum might be a good idea. Wiki was also mentioned but I'm not familiar with this. Your feedback is always welcome.

What's TUV?

Is there any variation in symptoms between the ECUs. If so the problem is most likely upstream like relays, fuses, power to ECU. If not the problem is probably downstream, injectors, fuel pump, pressure regulator etc.

You might want to pull that fuse and measure the current through it when the fuel pump is running. Should only be about 5A plus o2 heater if you have one. Whats your battery voltage? If it is dropping due to regulator malfunction it may cause the pump to draw more current.

You've got a My15M? I can't think of who you are. Send me an email and I'll help sort out any issues you might be having.

Did I miss something? What am I doing?

The idle should be 1100-1200. You're not doing the engine any favours by being lower. While moving at 70kmh or more, I would expect the oil temp to sit around 40C more than ambient. When in slow traffic or at lights, you'll be surprised how quickly the temperature will rise. 3 red traffic lights in quick succession will get you near 100C.

Could be an earthing issue.

Idle should be about 1100-1200 but don't go by the tacho it may be inaccurate.

Your symptoms sound strange. Is it a gradual failure or all of a sudden. I would reseat all the connectors you can find, especially those for the oil temp and air temp sensors. Has the fuel filter been changed recently?

I don't think I've noticed any variation on my Sport. Here's an experiment for someone - see if adjusting the bleed screw has any impact. If I'm right then screw in will give greatest suck effect and more deviation.

I would set 100 also.

It could be that the idle pressure is enough to take up the slack. That is why you don't see any more increase.

It probably due to wear in the cross linkage.