jimbemotumbo

Thanks for the info gang. Very useful. Ratchet helped me get the stock forks set up pretty well ... as well as can be expected. It's been okay, but the changes you made are really the only way to go long-term. Thanks again!

Y'all know I'm cheap. Wanted the napoleons but instead ... I bought Mirracycle mtn bike mirrors. $9 USD each. They work great and are nice and wiiiide. Look cool as hell. Yes, they shake a bit, but I need to know only if there is a cager behind me, not who drives it.

Obviously there ARE upsides to K&Ns, or UNIs, or whatever you like, as opposed to OEM paper filters. Bottom line, there is a trade-off in filtering efficiency versus air flow. You have to make the choice. If you have a motor that can benefit from increased flow, you WILL see the upsides. And there's the stickers. But Ratchet is right ... you should also be aware of the downsides. But let us not get too intrigued with this "test". It is after all only half a test and measured only once. Read the ISO requirements and you'll find they did not report a number of required tests including seal testing, workmanship, collapse and failure testing etc. Seal is especially important and is tested repeatedly over time. A 100% efficient filter with even a speck of a seal break would fall rapidly off the scale. Most aftermarket filters have much better workmanship and higher quality synthetic seals than OEM type filters. This sort of testing was apparently not done. Also, the "test" here apparently fails to adhere to ISO requirements in that all filters are tested using the same dust type. Based on the graphics, the K&N and UNI were tested with fine dust, not coarse. as stated in the text. If true, this would skew the efficiency results considerably, and probably does. You will never see a worn motor due to air filtration issues unless somebody failed to install the filter properly, or the filter seal failed and no-one noticed. Nothing new here. Whatever your choice, I wouldn't worry over it. I really doubt it matters. Changing your oil regularly has much more impact on your motors life. Oh yes! Let's start an oil thread!!!

I put alot of miles on my y2k Road King. Absolutely the finest distance road bike I have ever had. A few careful mods and I have 90 hp and 105 tq. More than adequate for 1000 mile days at the ton, with no aches or pains afterwards. 225 mile range. Only niggle is that after about 12 hours it get's kinda hot, so an oil cooler is my future. Yes, I love my goose (and Ducs, and, and, and ...), but you gotta use the right tool for the job. Can't speak much to the service and support issue though, I've never been broken down. Knock on wood. Lost a breather bolt once, but found a shop almost immediately and was on my way in a jif. HD shops are everywhere. Chevy parts often fit. Can't complain. So far I have avoided putting fringe or chrome appliances on it.

Matched set would be a plus. Also, I would like to see an optional length for those of us with lower / wider pegs. A guy can dream, can't he?

I can recommend a Maund Rx. Just call me Glad-ass.

Like GuzziRider, I ride my HD more than the goose during the winter months (a bit warmer behind the big screen). Pretty much ride year around, except for a few weeks in the deep freeze.

All things being equal, 2-1 ALWAYS produces more power than a 2-2 exhaust. The trick, as you note, is to get the math right. Some prefer the sound of dual exhaust, but dynos will prove the 2-1 to be functionally superior every time. Good luck with the fabrication. The supertrapp style exhaust should be a very good choice!

Look at my tps adjustment thread. That will fix it. Jimbemotumbo's tune

a bodging I will go.

Anyone know of a good replacement for a buggered holder? Mine is the metal kind that press fits into the back of the instruments. Looks fairly generic, but I know it couldn't possibly be that easy. Thanks!

After much research, I have finally found the REAL Guzzi tourer. Those pics posted previously were of an FJR with faux-cylinder side covers. This is the real, working prototype Guzzi has been secretly testing abroad. Note the relaxed head angle for all-day comfort, the exceptional leg position for control and stability, and the increased passenger room - a whopping 21 cu ft (hence the name Norge). The new Guzzi Tourer Yours truly, Jimbemotumbo

Still lovin my Maund seat. Thanks again Rich!

I will buy one. God knows I can't EARN one!

Not sure it matters. I just used some carb cleaner and sprayed external stuff until the gunk ran out. Wiped it down and let it dry and then hit it with my bicycle ProLube. I use that for all cables and linkages on all vehicles as it is very slippery but dries to a thin waxy type substance. really stays put ans sheds water. For the TBs, just open up the butterflys and slide a carb cleaner soaked cloth in there and clean everything up. I used some long q tips to get the crud that had built up around the butterfly pivots. That is the spot that caused the problem for me. Good luck.

Keep us posted Michael. I have more than a passing interest in this nowadays! Took my goose to the local MG shop this weekend and checked my A/F, etc on the dyno. Everything was perfect right outta the box, so to speak. They also thought it was the ECU ... glad that wasn't it!

I had that happen ... 1) Clean the linkage and spring thoroughly (sounds like you've done that) on each TB. 2) Pop off the air bits behind the TBs. Reach inside each one and clean the butterflies thoroughly. Mine were pretty gunked up when I got the bike. Once all was clean and lubed I had no more stick in the go wand.

Now that my V11s is completely perfect it is time to sell it and move on to the next Guzzi project. Specifics: 2000 V11 Sport Stucchi X-over M4 cans Rich Maund gel seat with fancy shmancy Italian flag and carbon weave vinyl Carbon fairing Riser Ballabio bars w/ gel grips Buell pegs Powdercoated wheels and such Fairly new Michelin Pilots K&N pods (photo shows old ones ... new cone pods are installed now) PC III usb w/software, cables, and maps powdercoated head guards on painted head covers New HD TPS Bosch relays 14k veglia mileage. Tank bag. Suspension completely set-up (for my 180 lb weight). Redline Shockproof in tranny & rear end. Mobile 1 in the motor. All Guzzi improvements have been made either by me or the previos owner (electrical connections, relays, valve adjustment, TPS tune, etc). Paint is perfect. Bars, pegs and gel seat make this a very comfy bike and still great fun in the twisties. This is a good chance to own a fabulous bike with all tweaks and improvements already made. The pipes sound awesome and when I dyno mapped it, the shop staff and customers were drawn to it like moths to flame. Everything works perfectly. And the tune is fresh and absolutely spot - on. No misses, surges, or backfires. I get alot of stoplight compliments on the look and sound of this bike. This runs better than any sport I've been on. Local shop manager & tech both agree. Since I can't convince them to trade me for their old 750s, I must sell. $5500 Firm. I know you can find some a bit cheaper than this, but you will not find any that run this well and without ANY problems or routine maintenance needs AT ALL! I've got more than this into it but I wanted to price it fairly for my forum friends and recoup as much as possible. It was a fun project getting this to run so well. I am in Denver / Boulder area. Happy to show the bike or help with delivery / shipment. Comes with a shop/tech manual on CD, full set of spare relays, extra oil filters, and the original exhaust. email me at motov8hotmail.com (you know the nospam trick!) or PM me. Check my ebay feedback - user: jimbemotumbo

The fewer things connected in the air or fuel flow system, the better ... IMHO My pods are direct onto the TB with no probs at all (though I do have em wired in case they loosen up). I don't worry about letting more "stuff" into the motor. Long experience with race and high mileage motors using K&Ns and similar. Never seen premature wear associated with an air filter of this type (and I'm in a very sandy and dusty area). I'm guessing the particle size is insignifcant. Everyone has an opinion though, so follow your conscience. cheers!

well said jrt

I am a glutton for the punishment that reading research papers provides. Yes, I am a sick puppy. If you can find it again, can you send me a reference to this article? God forbid there is something out there I don't know! Still waiting for someone to include outcomes in their research. Until this, we must place this topic with all the oil threads.

Nice theories, but you are all wrong on this. It is an anti-theft device, triggering the dealerships alarm when you try to sneak out the front doors.

oops, how'd THAT get in there?

My riding buddy has an XB and lusts after my V11. He says there is no comparison between the two and he's no sorry he bought the Buell. I rather like it, but can't stay on it more than 15 minutes due to spinal agony. His has the race kit. My V11 has the stucchi, cans, pods, and pcIII. The v11 is nearly as fast to about 80, and then pulls away strongly. The Buell seems a bit quicker out of the corners, but the goose handles sooo much better and can be ridden more smoothly than the XB. Maybe it's just me. Other than my tune issues (finally sorted), the goose is so much more reliablethan the XB. My poor buddy has been stranded on so many occasions he is afraid to ride alone. Although he's a bit of a careful rider, the last two wheelies cost him a new drive belt. Both times.

I do not want to start another K&N debate, but let me just add this. Years of building up high-scoot motors on cars, and nearly 30 years of motorcycle performance builds on all types of bikes, I can say that the K&N filter (used on ALL my vehicles since 1975 or so) has no impact at all on wear of critical engine bits. Many of motors have had factory crosshatching still evident on the cylinder walls at very high mileage! All have been as clean inside as a new motor, with a tad of carbon around a few intake ports. Compression on my 1980 Harley FL at 75k was still absolutely perfect, and to this has never been rebuilt or had a bearing fail (3rd owner says it is somewhere north of 90k now). Of course it leaked all contaminated oil out every 1000 miles, so maybe a poor example! My 68 Chrysler mom car had over 200k on it at last count and burns no oil, and still purrs like a kitty. These all had K&Ns since day 1 (the Chrysler since about 30k) and I have lived only in dusty KS and CO. Never a piston, ring, cylinder, or bearing problem on any vehicle. In consideration of my pal Rachet's wealth of expertise, yes, the K&N type filter flows more of everything, air, dirt, and vespas. However, I must disagree on the tests. I've read the tests too, and make my living off critical reviews of scientific research reports (yawn). I can say these filter "tests" are interesting, and even perhaps suggestive, but they are not scientifically sound. The tests merely measure obvious things like flow and initial filtration. None of the filter tests I've seen have considered the effect of passing more "stuff" into the motor. Another thing the tests failed to do was test the filters after a healthy build up of dirt on the outside. This significantly adds to the filtration effectiveness. I know allowing anything into the motor sounds bad, but all filters do just that. Based on my long experience with these filters, my guess is that the allowed particle size, over the first few hundred miles (until the dirt gets built up a bit) is inconsequential given frequent oil changes like most enthusiasts do. Since I am a fanatic about changing oil, I feel this has more to do with my K&N success than anything. Not a scientific fact, but certainly a reasonably good "proof of concept". To each his own. As for mirrors, I use mountain bike bar ends. $10 each. They look cool. Yes, they shake alot, but I just need to see that a car is behind me ... not who is driving it.