Lex

Carl, Whoever said it I thank you for posting it. I am so sick of otherwise intelligent people falling for these stupid scams. Can we add "Super White Light Bulbs" to 100 MPG carburetors, higher octane gives more power, more pre-load fixes soft springs, "magic" spark plugs and stop talking about them? There are no free lunches folks. OK, I'm grumpy. The TV adds Chrysler (that would be Mercedes Benz's junior partner to you Europeans) has been running trying to trade on the famous "Hemi" V-8's distant past racing glory (we are talking 35 to 40 years ago) made me this way. Are people really so ignorant they fall for this crap? Lex

This is another reason why I enjoy this place. My idle has been getting higher since my bike started breaking in and I eased the restrictions in its breathing. At first the left hand adjuster had an effect then it stopped working. I never thought to look for an adjuster on the right TB, I've never seen a second adjuster on a properly linked (i.e. non-BMW R259) FI system. I looked everywhere else (fast idle linkage, etc.) and never saw the (very well hidden) adjuster on the right TB. Thanks to Roberto I now have a nice, smooth 1100-1200 RPM idle. Thanks Roberto! Cheers, Lex

Just FYI, a Bar is one sea level atmosphere or 14.50377 PSI. So a 3 Bar working pressure is 43.51132 PSI for the metric changed. I highly recommend convert-me.com for this kind of stuff. Cheers, Lex

Roughing up the dip stick is a good trick. Another idea is to drill very small holes in the stick. Dry the stick, put it in and the highest hole with oil in it is the level. The holes must be very small, I used (I think, couldn't find a mark on the bit) 3/32 or about 1 MM bit and a pin vise to drill five holes in my dip stick. Just another option, Lex

I thought the Elephant Rally was a legend in Europe, nut cases getting together in January in some toasty spot in the lower Alps. I may be miss informed yet again. The Brass Monkey is (I guess) more of a down under thing. There is an expression in English "It was so cold it would freeze the balls off a brass monkey". The Kiwis (and, I think, Australians) have taken this as a challenge and have rallies called the Brass Monkey in cold places in winter. Sorry to be obscure, Lex

Jaap, I can't speak from experience about the Dual Star product (they look like a great product, just haven't used them) but heated grips are not just for "Elephant Ride/ Brass Monkey" types. Being able to wear unlined gloves and have truly warm hands on a cool day makes riding the bike safer and more fun. I can't recall for sure but I believe a friend I helped install a similar style of heater (probably the type Carl mentioned) was using jell grips and he had no problems. I'm pretty sure I will be able to speak from experience about the Dual Star grips by spring, if you know what I mean. Al, if I am reading the Dual Star site correct these heaters have two sets of elements, one for high and one for low heat. Assuming that is correct they would work with your variable resister if you connected them to the "high" element. FWIW, I never found much advantage to any more than off/ low/ high switch for heated grips but that is just my opinion. As another factor to think about, given our bikes truly crummy electrical system I'd think having the low heat/ low current draw position would be a very good thing. Again, JMO. Cheers, Lex

In the far distant past when I was racing plastic valve caps would save you a lot of time in the tech inspection line, you would be rejected before they wasted any time checking anything else. I don't know if you need to be going all that fast, if you hit a bump just as the stem comes to the bottom of the wheel the "G" forces would be pretty strong. This strikes me (and maybe only me) as an odd place to cheap out. Food for thought indeed. Cheers, Lex

I'd love to see a picture of your stand, I'm afraid I can't picture how you could move the bike without the front end. My bike keeps the front wheel on the ground unless I use the "spool" to prop it up. Lex

Max, Or, you can get it for $139 from MG Cycle V11 page. I highly recommend the stand, given the amount of bandwidth used on this site to talk about suspension it is clear I'm not the only one wants a tool to get both wheels of the ground. Cheers, Lex

Captain, As it says on the site, Moto Guzzi specifies that if the spring is less than 152 MM with the sag set the spring is too soft. If you are at 150 MM and still have two inches of sag you deffinatly need a stiffer spring. I don't have the Moto Guzzi specific knowledge to suggest a good replacement, I'm sure a good suspension shop could help with that. If you go that route I'd love to hear what they suggest and get your feedback on the results. The web site is just an embrio at this point (and will stay that way for a while as my life is about to get very busy) but one of the things I would like to add is some suggestions for set up like what vkerrigan provided with his fork changes. You have already experienced the most common symptom of too soft springs/ too much sag, the shock will bottom and "break you ass and teeth". Imagine how much fun I had the first time I took my brand new, stock Guzzi on one of my favorite tight, very bumpy roads, I spent more time with my ass in the air than on the seat. The more subtle signs are poor feel and traction from the front end as the low rear end "rakes" the front and shifts the weight to the rear. The later is a real problem as our bikes already carry too much of their weight on the rear of the bike. Al, OTOH, maybe LE just had a set of 1.05 springs laying around and it was too much trouble to order stiffer springs for my bike. Cheers, Lex

Al, only time will tell. It may have to do with how we presented ourselves and our riding style to LE. I called myself an aggressive touring rider as opposed to a full on sport rider. My riding style ( 350/ 400 two-stroke twin Yamahas and old BMWs taught smoothness if nothing else ) is touring, for me, getting off the throttle and onto the brakes are two separate actions. Fast sporting/ race track riders make the change in a single, smooth flow. If LE was setting up the bike for a more aggressive rider I'm not surprised the springs are proportionately stiffer and maybe the damping as well. vkerrigan, that sounds like a good package. I'd bet it would provide most folks with a big improvement for a (relatively) small cash outlay. You could always build on it with more work later but I suspect most folks would be happy with springs and the right oil. I'll add a plug for good (read expensive, sorry) fork oil like the Motul you used. I've done side by side comparisons (not with Motul but other high end brands) and the "ridiculously over priced" fork oil is really worth the extra cost. Don't save a few dollars and buy cheap stuff. I don't know how it works but the good brands seem to greatly reduce "stiction" while still providing the damping you want. Wild, you asked vkerrigan but I'll be rude and poke my nose in. The rear shock is also under-sprung for most riders. Since this is were the majority of the rider's weight is carried by the shock it is even more sensitive to the rider's weight than the forks spring. Again, I did the full Monty and had LE re-valve and re-spring my shock. It is now very good, I wouldn't be surprised if a well set-up Ohlins or Penske would be better but given the poor (more accurately, old fashion) design of the V11's rear suspension I'm not sure how much better. After the re-valve LE selected a 575 in/pound spring. That would be too heavy for most folks. Anybody done any work on selecting a good rear spring for normal sized riders? Yes, the Le Mans that do not have Ohlins uses the same fork/ shock combination as the V11 Sport. I have a start of a web page for setting rear sag on the V11 here: setting the V11's sag. You may find it useful. Cheers, Lex

Max, I had LE "do" my forks and, after a "re-do", I am very happy with the results. My front end is plush but well controlled. I haven't worked with Aftershocks but have heard good things about their work. I'd also suggest trying the fork spring replacement first. In my case I need the full Monty because of my size but a person closer to average could be very happy with just springs. Again, FWIW, I'd suggest fork spring replacement from anybody over 150 pounds. The springs MG uses are VERY light, something like 0.6 Kg/ Cm. The SOP replacement is (IIRC) 0.9, 50% stiffer. Mine are 1.05, only a little over 10% stiffer than the replacement and I weigh 260 pounds. That should give you some idea of how light the stock springs are. Another test, if it takes more than 20 MM of pre-load to reach the correct sag the springs are too soft. I'd bet most folks who have "fixed" the sag are running twice that. Good luck sorting it out, it is worth it, Lex

Al, I can't say I've seen it personally but from what I understand Carl is correct. There is a huge amount of energy, if it is not sent off to the plug the very small gauge wire or its insulation fails. Scary huh? Lex

I'm pretty sure the current bulb is an H4 Halogen. Do you mean HID? If so that is a great solution but very complex to implement and very expensive. HID requires two bulbs (one for low, one for high), bulky ballast resistors, etc. Each unit will cost you a few hundred dollars. Unless you want to do some pretty serious engineering I'd try to add lights that wouldn't overstress the alternator. That limits you to fairly low wattage, a pair of 35 watt light at the most. In other words, Moto Guzzi has made it very difficult to improve the lighting on our bikes, sorry. I'm a lighting addict so not being able to improve the lights on my Goose is pretty frustrating. Yours in frustration, Lex

I think we now have a two wheeled description of the term "bilng-bling". I like the flat gold of the Brembo parts, on brake parts and when it is used on wheels, very much. I wouldn't do it myself but the red valve covers are cool. But that finish, to my eye, would look much better on a Harley, if you get my drift. JMHO, Lex

dlaing, Fantastic site! Thank you very much. Since I've finished with the Spine Frame specific part of shock explanation I think the rest of my new web page will be a link to Penske's site. This is in much more detail and higher quality than anything I could come up with. My only complaint is that they used Acrobat, not my favorite format. Thanks again, Lex

Jeez Jaap, you forgot the highway pegs and chrome, chrome, chrome! We'd still have lots to talk about! Lex

Helmets may be the most personal thing in motorcycling. Arais are the most popular helmet (in the US, at least) and win all the awards and "shoot outs", to me they are like having my head in a soft jaw clamp that get tighter every 10 minutes. I've had two, both wound up being replaced shortly after I bought them, an expensive lesson for Mr. Cheapskate. So far ( I certainly haven't tried them all) only the Shoei RF's have worked for me in the long run. Even the "other" Shoei, the "X" series, doesn't fit me as well. One of the people I ride with has had exactly the opposite experience, he loves his Arais and was never happy with any Shoei. I agree with Al 100%, no helmet will work (in any way, comfort, quiet or safety) if doesn't fit. The helmet should be right on the edge of uncomfortable when new. One of the tests I use is to see if the skin on my forehead moves around when I move the helmet. If it doesn't I try the next smaller size. One other thing I've found, size isn't consistent even between model lines in one brand, you may be a Large in one line and an X-Large in another, try the next size up and down just to be sure. If you can stand the funny looks and stares from the other people in the shop, put the helmet on for a good long time before buying it. I walked around Road Rider (the Bay Area guys will know the place) for a half an hour with my current helmet before I bought it. The bottom line is that people can tell you if the helmet's face shield is scratch resistant or the graphics scuff easily and maybe even what helmet is quiet but no one can tell you what helmet will be comfortable. Only you can decide what size and brand you will like. Cheers, Lex

Mike, You wouldn't be the first person to find an aftermarket Ohlins shock set-up with too much compression damping, I've been there myself. My first impression of Ohlins shocks (back in the eighties when they were new to the US market) was very poor, sort of a Swedish Marzocchi. I put one on my bike and it rode like an empty truck and the tire was off the ground half the time in the bumps. Remember we are talking about a big guy, I can't imagine what it would have been like for a rider 100 pounds lighter. A quick re-valve and it was the equal of any shock I've ever used. Don't worry, help should near by. It does kinda' piss you off to pay premium prices for something so badly set-up and then pay more (or at least wait even longer) to have it fixed. Cheers, Lex

zebulon said: The rocket scientists at Yahoo Groups will no longer let me set the files section to allow access to non-members. I made a site on geocites and placed the page there. Suspension set-up page Northend said: My bike's damping has been completely re-valved so I can't test these settings. However, I'd really like to get the settings some people are using as add them to the page. If we can get a group of "this works for me" settings it should give a new V11 owner a good starting point. In that same vein, I know some folks have done some things like raise the fork tubes in the clamps, I'd be happy to add that kind of info as well. Thanks for the feedback, Lex

All, We seem to spend a good deal of time taking about setting the suspension, especially the rear, on our bikes. I started a web page to give some basic set-up information. I tried to start out generic and then provide spine frame specific information. Please let me know if you find it useful or (even better) if you have some constructive criticism. Please keep in mind this is just a draft, don't be too cruel. Suspension set-up page I'm going to stop here for a while, I'd like to get your feed back before I spend any more time on the page. Cheers, Lex

Al, Nice post on pre-load. Do you think it is about time for a suspension FAQ? We seem to be going over the same ground more than once. I'd be happy to provide any assistance I can and if somebody who is good with graphics could help I think we could cover the basics pretty well. JMHO, Lex

Just to add another opinion, I've been taught to use a bit less sag than seems to be the standard advice on this site. The rule of thumb, as I learned it, is 20 to 25% of total travel. That would be about an inch for our bikes. Thirty percent sounds, to me, more like a dirt bike number. They have 10 to 12" of travel to work with and need more extension for holes, drop offs and such than street bikes. I don't think this is an issue of right or wrong, just what works for a given rider. In other words, I'd try both and see what works for you. Cheers, Lex

I've been reading this thread with much interest since I know big twins need to breath deeply and the V11 air box looks very small compared to other big twins. In fact, I got so excited I made an air filter holder yesterday. First ride indicates a very nice noise (directed at the rider, not my neighbors) and a nice improvement in the seat-of-the-pants dyno. I'm also hoping I will get the same leaning of the mixture Rich commented on, my bike is on the rich side based on the plugs and poor fuel mileage. It also seems to be a bit smoother. This should get me by until I can get to Todd's House of Furniture and Fast Guzzis to get my PCIII dyno tuned, all good. My question is based on the picture on the FBF page. My plan was to make my air filter holder and upgrade to a professional model later if I was happy with the results. I figured I'd buy a nice holder and aftermarket filter when my current filter is due for replacement. I followed the link Al provided, saw the price, $80 isn't bad considering, and all seemed good. Then I looked at the picture and got worried. The filter holder in the picture on the FBF has two bolts in the rear, my air box has one bolt. Any words form the folks who know more about this issue? I don't recall this coming up from past threads on air box modification. TIA for any advice, Lex

Cap, I would highly recommend stiffer fork springs. I'm willing to bet that most of the members of this list are tired of hearing me say the same thing but I'm going to say it again. Getting the spring rate right is the first priority, once the springs are right you can look into damping. The springs MG put in our forks seems to be for a very light (lets say 125 to 140 pound) rider. I have been told they are 0.6 kg/ cm, very soft. As far as the oil (thicker or thinner) I'll accept what others have said, look into thinner oil. I had my suspension re-valved, the stock setting are so far off I couldn't see any point in working with the stock set-up. In other words, I'd put good springs in and go from there. Just keep in mind that there is more to testing than oil weight, play with the amount (level) of the oil as well. More oil gives you a stiffer "air spring" near full compression, less oil will have the opposite effect. Also, your forks have compression and rebound damping in separate legs, you can, for example, stiffen compression but not rebound by using thicker oil on the left leg. Finally, keep in mind that the adjusters on your forks (and shock) only adjust the damping up to a point, as the force trying to move the fork increases the damping holes controlled by the adjusters are overwhelmed and the "washer stack" controls damping. At this point you have to change the oil or the "stack" to make changes. For average sized people the most common spring seems to be 0.9 kg/ cm springs, the 0.95 spring your mechanic recommends is pretty close. However, I would question using OEM Yamaha springs. In general stock springs (unless the bike is equipped with very high-end suspension like WP or Ohlins) are, to be blunt, crap. They are made of poor quality metal and sack (permanently compress) relatively quickly. I think you would be much happier with aftermarket springs, e.g. Eibach. As a rule of thumb, if you need more than ~20 mm (3/4") of pre-load in your forks to get the ride height set the spring is too soft. As to the rear, I would be a bit worried about an "expert" who gave you the softer shock spring advice. I'd very strongly agree with the people saying this is the wrong way to go. The rear end feels stiff because the soft springs compress and you only have a short amount of travel before you get to the bump stops. If you make any changes to the rear I'd strongly suggest stiffer, not softer. As a basic rule of thumb, if you need more than about 10 mm (~3/8") of pre-load to get the correct ride high your spring is too soft. I have a much stiffer than stock rear spring, my bike rides very well in tour mode and keeps the rear tire on the ground and working during aggressive riding in the bumpy stuff. If you want to do suspension work I'd suggest finding a local shop that the racers in your area use. Moto International is a good shop but the advice (at least the suspension advice, I don't know about the air cleaners) you have been given is pretty questionable. If you can't find a good local shop try Race Tech or LE. Just be sure they understand how you use the bike and don't over estimate your riding skill/ style, a race track set-up will be crap on the street. I had LE re-spring and valve my bike and am very happy with the results. Other have suggested Guzzi Tech for more info, I'd specifically suggest Ed Milich's article from 9.04.01. FWIW, others have felt the need to go to go very high end, i.e. Ohlins, on their V11s. I am very happy with my modified forks and shock. I may look at a better rear shock one day but I can't see enough improvement potential in my forks to think about that but, as they say, YMMV. Cheers, Lex