guido

So the logical process is to get the cable and read the codes. Then take it from there. As to whether the demand sensor can be repaired or not, this from the service manual about p. 125: "Operation / Operating principle The two throttle cables (opening and closing) actuate on a scroll mounted on a shaft which is sent back to its home position by a return spring. On the shaft covers there are 2 double track potentiometers (4 control tracks) by means of which the torque demand is read (and checked). The 4 potentiometers are tinned and magnetically controlled (contactless); they cannot be overhauled nor replaced" So that appears to be a definite NO! So, as a typical South African, I will try~!@ ;-) And most likely f. up something in the process!! ;-( LOL

I think it is an early one the VIN number is ZGULVA0260M111443. Demand sensor is the same as the throttle position censor, TPS? What goes wrong and can it be repaired or new unit.? I don't think he has had any recalls done. I remember I had to sort his key switch out. Totally burned out. They wanted about 500Dollars for a new one. I bought a metal barrel for a Toyota and modified his for a tenth of the cost. And it is far better quality!

Sir, thank you. I will get studying. Looks promising!

I have a friend with California 1400. It is showing urgent service and going into limp mode. I can see that you can connect to diagnostic programs, but I haven't got the cable. We have currently got no dealers. Would someone please let me know the connection between the three pin connector going into the bike harness, and the connection to the OBD plug. IOW which points connect where. Would be much appreciated!

I would have a look at the "bracket, welded to the frame" what is it doing there? and, should you maybe cut it off? If it is performing any function, what is it. Otherwise get it off. And repair it properly.

There is a problem on the side towards the top of the timing cover. It is most likely caused by hot oil being flung off the chain and hitting that particular spot repeatedly. Tightening does not usually help, once the process has started, and a new gasket might not last much longer than the original. The best solution is to use a silicone sealer that will withstand oils. It should be applied to dry/clean surfaces and in moderation. That has, so far, proved durable on mine. But choose a good quality product, while many might do, I have had good experiences with a product from Victor Reinz called REINSOZIL www.reinz.com/datasheet. Withstands water, oil and petrol.

I think it is clear to anyone, that these boxes are not totally reliable, on the contrary. It is a very nice working gearbox, when it works, but it often does not. If it had been that great, or that reliable, Moto Guzzi would certainly have used it for more than one model. The previous gearbox is still in use!! The V11 box has been dumped. So even Moto Guzzi themselves realize that the box is a dodo. As for a malfunctioning clutch, of course it affects the box! If the clutch plates do not separate completely, then there will still be some drive(torque)on the input shaft, and shifting will be affected, negatively. I think most of us would have experienced this ,either in a car or on a bike. This is common knowledge. You can, of course do perfect shifts without using the clutch, but that requires a sympathetic throttle and a knack for what is going on. These clutchless shifts work best with no load, but are almost impossible to perform if you don't hit the right conditions of speed, revs and load.

My Breva was fitted with Metzelers front and rear from the factory. I can just say that they have been brilliant, quite possibly the best tyres I have ever had. I would never have thought of buying them, usually thinking Michelin or Pirelli. But they are seriously good!

Thanks Jason for the input,No junk on drainplug, pulled and inspected cover Thanks, Michael I would seriously consider to take the "fearbox" to pieces and inspect it. Pay particular attention to the shift rings. I have had one break cleanly, on a box out of recall numbers. I doubt this is the problem, though. However the box is problematic in some cases and it is a problem which could cost you dearly if unlucky. And no amount of driver skills can mitigate a blocked box! I am not driving any V11 sport without leathers. I have the scars to prove it!

I have never had any problems with the handling of my Breva. however, I have never loaded it with a lot of luggage. If you bottom out on the springs/shocks, I seriously think something is wrong. Maybe spring, damper problem? Otherwise overloading, maybe a diet would be on the cards?? Seriously, the Breva is the best handling of all my Guzzis, by quite a margin. And surely not soft!

Go easy on the stuff you are smoking Pete. I said that the effect would not be great, I stand by that. If you want to argue, do so. If you think the failure is caused by the misalignment, fine. I don't.

As for the damage visible in the picture, I am not sure that it is caused by a seized bearing, it looks more like bending/impact to me. But let's see what is still hidden. Also I don't like the colour of your oil, but that may be Redline, which I don't know. If your lower secondary shaft is intact, I am still hunting for one of those. Complete shaft. As for your alignments on the shaft, that small movement will be of very little consequence, I would have thought. There can be two issues I can see, balance and angular movement. Being out one spline will not affect it seriously. Let us know what you find.

The funny thing is that the one box, the first, was under re-call. It had about 1100km on it when the accident occured. The lock up had nothing to do with the re-call though, it was a fusion of a gear to the shaft. The fault was only dectecable as I took the box apart. The last failure was indeed a broken shift ring! but on a box long out of re-call!! As for the reputation of the boxes, I am not saying that each box will necessarily break. I actually think only a few incidences of this are taking place, but how many might have taken place without being recognized as such? My experience migt be unique, but I doubt it. Whichever way we look at it, it should never happen. It has never happened to any of my other Guzzis, and I drive them more often. I think there is a problem. I think Moto Guzzi thinks the same. Of all the boxes I have tried, these are the most accurate, the most silent during shift and the most precise. If all was well, why introduce the new box as on the Breva, which is MARKEDLY inferior to the V11 in all respects mentioned above. There can only be one good reason, the V11 box is flawed. As for driving the V11, you have a very small chance of someting going wrong, but you have that whether you like it or not. And there is nothing you can do, even as the best driver in the world, if the box locks up on you, you are in the hands of the gods.

I had a similar incident a couple of years ago. Brand new bike and the rear wheel locked up. Turned out that one of the gears on the secondary lower shaft had locked itself to the shaft momentarily, and as I changed down from 6 to 5th it locked up. Only found out a while later as the gearbox was taken to pieces to replace the recall shift ring. There is a post somewhere on this. Initially I thought it was a tank slapper. Luckily I survived and apart from the wounds my ego suffered most! Recently I had a broken shift ring on my other V11, one third simply parted company and fell to the bottom of the box. This time it didn't lock up, because the piece could fall safely to the bottom. These fearboxes (!) are dangerous, no doubt about it. And the help from Moto Guzi. Nada! Nix. Nothing. I still drive Guzzis, and I have for many years. And I like the V11, however you take your life in your hands when driving this particular model from a potential failure you can do NOTHING about. No warning, no remedy, pure luck! I don't think it is worth it.

I can't tell you for sure, but the bike has 18000 km on it. I have done about 6000 of these, but it is propable that it could have done a bit more, most likely less than 20000km. The gearbox oil I can't recall having changed, and it was full. It smells like a diff oil and looks tat way too. I would assume it is the required grade, as the bike was a unit from the local dealer, and was never sold before I acquired it. The question is now how can I make sure that I will not have a third gearbox problem? Short of stopping using the bike?