txrider

One nut on my 2004 shift linkage was loose as well. About two more turns and it would have been gone. Anyone that hasn't already checked this should probably do so. There were no lock washers, no locking compound on mine so I reinstalled with blue Loctite.

belfastguzzi, was that tank kept wet for any extended time period like under a damp tarp or subjected to high pressure wash?

According to the 2004 MG service manual fluid change is to be done initially at 1000 miles and then every 12000 miles thereafter, 400cc of 10 wt fork oil. I'm used to doing this with freeboard , distance of fork oil level to top of fork but that's the way MG specs it. You're gonna love the procedure which involves full or partial disassembly of the forks for emptying the old stuff and cleanup of the internals. These are cartridge type forks and I suggest you get a manual or someone to copy the suspension section for you.

It certainly does help and thanks. Coincidently, I used a bore brush last night to clean the threads but a .45 type was all I had so turned it with good results. I made washers out of 0.020" stainless round shims to fit under the lock nuts which should keep the nuts off the aluminum porkchop. Had a time with a Dremel ( be nice to have a lathe) reducing the od but they turned out after a final pass on the drill press and drum sander.

I have a friend who used it on his F650 tires. When he broke the tire down for replacement it made a big mess in the shop. Green goo everywhere. I prefer tire plugging kits to this stuff.

Great, a lifer! If I remember correctly that's a destroyer and frigate in your history. Hats off to you for the career investment. Lots of sea duty there, I trust you were glad to get back on shore. Yes, must be something about squids and Guzzis, reason I mentioned it. Rich Maund was in as well as several others. Go figure. I can see I'm in good company.

I've been reading with interest the topics in the tech section and even did some posts but thought (rather late) I should introduce myself. I'm a retired manufacturing manager/engineer, have been an avid motorcyclist for 30 years and spend lots of time in the garage maintaining the bikes. There is a 2000 Triumph Sprint, a 2002 Aprilia Futura, a 2001 Yamaha FZ1 ( ready to sell) and my newest acquisition, a 2004 LeMans. As you can see my taste in bikes varies widely but the common theme is sport tourers, mainly European. I haven't owned a Guzzi since 1977 when I had a LeMans (which I should never have traded) so I'm new at the tweaking and tinkering on this new LeMans. Lots of reading, acquisition of Guzziology and lurking here, wildgoose and guzzitech have resulted in some knowledge acquisition. I tend to do things by the numbers, being a fuss budget, so details are important and I'm anxious to learn more. One thing I'm learning, MotoGuzzi hasn't done us any favors making tech info readily available. The service manual is of limited help so information you guys have provided here is really appreciated. Hope I can contribute some info in the future to repay for that I've received. From Texas, good to know you. Ed- I see several ex-swabbies here. I was a GunnersMate Technician 1964-1967, Naval Weapons Station, Yorktown Va.

Huh? Wasn't me as I'm too cheap to buy a digital or a scanner and so haven't posted pictures.

In my experience blister failures have as their source something under the paint prior to paint application or penetration of solvent, moisture, whatever which collects between paint layers and causes localized intercoat adhesion failure. I don't know about the paint MG used but the description is of a matt black Scura. Some flat and semi-flat coatings use a lot of flatting compound (sometimes silicone flour) which adds some porosity to that coating increasing the possibility of absorbing some damaging material. IMHO the blistering paint problem described sounds like combination of property of the finish used and poor surface prep or insufficient film thickness applied. Sorry if I sound like a know-it-all but I worked with these problems on instrument panel coatings for years. Stripping and recoating is the preferred fix.

Just what I'm about to use along with the Dow Corning M Gear additive in the rear drive.

Thanks, Carl, I'll make a record of that.

I bought a service manual when I got the LeMans thinking all the info I would need would be within those oages. Wrong! I need torque values for installing the diagonal reinforcement framework that fits behind the transmission. It has following attachments- 1. Capscrews - forward struts to both sides of engine block 2. Long crossbolt going thru transmission bottom 3. Tie in to porkchops, 2 lower and two upper l/h side. These numbers must be listed somewhere, can someone point me in the right direction? Use standard values for fastener size?

I understand. Now to move off topic just a little how much do you snug up the stub axles against the swingarm bearings? I've read several different recommendations on this.

Recommend as a first step setting static sag. Racetech has the procedure outlined here- http://www.racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm

Got it and the timing is perfect since my swingarm is off right now. I measured the pivot nuts before removal and they were not equal. I will use this on reassembly. Thanks again.

Would that be by adjusting the swingarm pivots side to side?

Great idea. I've been toying with the idea of using a laser to check rear wheel alignment but hadn't thought of this straightforward easy approach. Thanks for the tip.

This may not qualify as teflon coating but recently I had a guy build up a stroked small block chevy for my truck and he wanted to apply a coating to the pistons, valve springs, crank, the works. He was using do-it-yourself coatings so I declined after checking this with a couple of local big name builders who said they hadn't been able to keep the stuff on. There are some reputable business that do a good job of this but it takes a lot of research to find them and then it's debatable if the additional cost and necessary prep on the pistons is worthwhile in terms of benefits received.

Thanks for the info, that's what I was looking for. As of now I have Staintunes ovals and the stock crossover which explains the less than hoped for exhaust "note".

Will the stock crossover be quieter than say, a Stucchi crossover and would that steel mesh be the reason?

I ordered Bosch relays p/n 0 332 207 307 from Waytech Inc. this am for very reasonable price. Don't know if I really need to replace the Seimans but after reading all the bad stories I'm doing it before a problem develops. dlaing, would you share your source and p/n for the GEI relay?

The dipstick really is difficult to read, interesting idea on the hole drilling. I'll try that. As to proper oil level, my bike (2004) shows signs of being overfilled by the previous owner with oil in the airbox and oily residue around the breather fittings in the spine. So, what is proper oil level? Full or 1/2 full?

A tip from one of the more mechanically astute Scots over on the apriliaforum- Extend the caliper pistons before cleaning to get all the gunk out. Some question exists on brake cleaner effects on piston seals, so he uses something similar to Simple Green, diluted. Lastly, another poster has used brake cylinder assembly lube applied to the piston/seal junction to keep pistons free moving and non-sticking. Those guys ride in some pretty crappy conditions and claim this works well.

Now that's interesting stuff. CNC vertical maching mill? What possibilities!

Ratchet, thanks for the tips. I'm particularly interested in the cush drive detail. I assume this is in the wheel assembly, behind the pie plate metal cover. Wouldn't have thought there would be anything behind there but rubber wedges, I'll take a look at what you described. As for the clutch slave removal, there is a diagonal brace about 3/4" inch in the way of the assembly coming straight back for removal. Plus I expect to find a pushrod of some sort behind the slave piston in there which will have to come out for inspection and lube. Obviously I know little of what is in there but hope to find the screech source by removing the push rod. MPH Cycles has advised the noise is likely coming from the intermediate plate and I have the utmost respect for their knowledge. Just hope that maybe this time it might be more simple and easy to fix than that.