Greg Field

The cheapest way is to get the axle, and then change out you wheel bearings to match the axle.

Enquiring minds, well, just HAVE to know . . .

If your bike has more than 7,000 miles on it, I can almost garantee that the front joint will feel stiff, no matter how many times you have or have not greased it. To judge what I'm talking about you have to remove the whole shaft, which means removing the swingarm. It will remain stiff until it's completely worn out, and which time it will feel loose. This is based on a sample of over 80 u-joints examined. Is greasing worth it? I do not know. I grease mine anyway. It is stiff as hell, so it is not worn out, at 30,000 miles.

I have the Motobits on mine and 800-mile days are no problem on my creaky knees.

OMFG, Hatchetrack can parse words better than Bill Clinton. I only help care for 100 of these bikes. I guess I'm not qualified to detect "irritations."

[quote name='savagehenry' date='Aug 8 2009, 05:47 AM' post='162424' And Greg 's bike has square wheels and a duct tape encrusted head temp sensor, so his opinion is circumspect at best! ANd despite all that it never exhibits the problem that Ratch fixed but never had. Go figure.

I've heard 'em all, on multiple bikes, as I work at the busiest Guzzi shop in the US. The best sound is from the Guzzi Ti system. A somewhat close second is the M4s. That is just my opinion, but it is not based on ignorance or a small sample.

We certainly know that to be true.

Current list price of the Guzzi spring is about $8.

There's a coupla ways to seal those joints. Give up and remove the front crossover if ya want, but you don't have to. Guzzis run better with crossovers. The more the better, within reason, and two is within reason.

The thermistor on an '04 is on the fuel-pump assembly. They're not that expensive. I have one in stock if your normal parts source does not.

Dan: Why do you always think I am speaking only to you? I was speaking to MZNYC. Have a drink. And relax. As for RLSH? I've used it in two bikes for a total of about 40,000 miles. It works great, for a while. Pretty soon, your bike will start to show a degradation in shifting, and to get back what you had, you have to change the oil. On my bikes, this happens at about 4,000-5,000 miles. I have concluded that the stuff is too expensive for those change intervals. Otherwise, I love it and think it might be a good choice for someone who doesn't put on a lot of miles.

Just fucking relax. This is not that complicated. PM me, and I can tell you all, or be at mercy of the rabble here . . .

I can email you a set of diagrams. PM me.

Strange how perceptions are. The rides I've taken lead me to percieve the Griso frame as at least an order of magnitude stiffer. Bumpy Mt. St. Helens roads perhaps emphasized the difference, because the V11 feels pretty good until you hit sizable bumps while heeled over, and then she turns all wiggly 'cause that swingarm is flexing and the rear wheel steers the bike with each flex. Ohlins can't do anything about that.

Brahman bull is right, but in a good way. I have always thought the 750-S/S3 had the look of a young and muscular Brahman, too.

VDO gauges and sender.

There was no pin stopping advancement of the needle. It went what looked like 5 psi beyond 60. The temp sender fit into the plug in the lower sump that is just to the right of the drain plug. I got it and the gauge and guage mount at egauges.com. I think the thread was 12x1.25 or something like that.

Distilled Waters: The gauges do not have to take much heat. Here's the second way I added gauges. It works better: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hl=oil+pressure

I have an Eldo and a V11. They're pretty damn close, too. I really think I can ride the Eldo faster. Could be fantasy, but I've had people on my V11 gasping trying to keep up to the Eldo. I'm fairly convinced they wouldn't be gasping if they were on a Griso.

The Griso I rode this weekend had a Givi 760 flyscreen, and I was going way over 100 mph and not feeling at all like I was going to be sucked off the back of the bike. It doesn't take much to meaningfully remove the pressure off of the rider's chest. The Givi looks good, too. If I get one, I'm going to make my own frame-mounted cross between a dolphin and dustbin fairing.

Listen to GuzziMoto. We unstick injectors all the time using a punch to deliver shock from a hammer to near the injector. I've personally revived 4 Guzzis that way. Seafoam's a start. Maybe try Techron, too, but the punch is faster. Just apply power to the injector and rap on the punch to free the sticky bastard. Or pull it off and send to a cleaner, but that'll cost you a bunch of time and money.

Heavy load. High speeds. Thousands of miles of twisties and full throttle while leaned over. It sure was fun.

When I left for the National, that tire had 1800 miles or so on it. In the past, they had always lasted 7,500 miles, so I felt pretty comfortable leaving on a 3,500-mile trip on them. The center wasn't bare until the last 50 miles or so before that pic. The left side, however was completely roasted and had been nursed 1500 miles by that point by staying off the power in left curves and by leaning it right on the straights to bias the wear to the right side. Worked like a charm but was strenuous. Had I been home, I'd've changed the tire 1,500 miles ago. I was in the middle of nowhere, though, and I do not trust anyone else to work on my bikes. Note that the plug is to fill a hole in the bare area on the left side of the tire. I must've picked up a nail in a curve. There was no wonky handling until the tire went flat. Even a brand new tire goes wonky when flat.

Use EBC FA47, just as on the other V11s. I just installed a pair in my Ballabio. They are the right ones. FOr the third time.