Greg Field

I THINK I still have one of those kits in stock at Moto Intl.

The quick, easy way is to get Ballabio risers and whatever bar you want. Other risers may work, or they may not, depending on their dimensions.

IME, they can look normal, and then you take a 300-mile ride and cords are showing when you get back. THe D.Stradas are the same tire but with the tread extending further toward centerline and cost 15-20 percent less. It's an easy choice for me. Add a Corsa III or Rosso front, and it's a winning combo for 8,000 miles or so.

It's a materials compatibility issue. The cast-iron tappets didn't play well with the steel camshaft. I remember when local guru Bob Nolan was building his hydro-lifter Eldorado in the late 1990s he ran into a similar issue that was only cured when he hard-chromed the tappets. My friend Easy is still flogging the hell out of that bike.

Wallis: Welcome back.

That road looks like good fun.

We're not open today. I'll check when I get into work tomorrow.

Is it swelling outward toward the sides as well as in length?

The factory rearsets are obtainable. I have a set on the shelf at Moto Intl. They are super nice. I've been pondering the purchase myself.

My favorite is the D. Strada, since they tend to be cheaper than a Z6 or Roadsmart or P. Road 2 but wear just as well and handle really well and are plenty stiff in the sidewall for 500-lb bikes and stick plenty well for 75-hp bikes. I pair them with a front that is 2-3 steps stickier, such as a D. Rosso or D. Corsa III, which gives me an extry margin of stick at the front should I need it for cornering or emergency braking in a corner, and I just accept that front and rear tires will need changing at the same mileage. For me, this is typically 8,000 miles.

This thread is more about weasel alignment than wheel alignment.

Thanks. I fantasize about fitting lighter wheels. Money prevents it, though.

We speak different languages. What you accused me of was deleting posts. What I denied was deleting posts. Prove it or retract it. Or keep slinking off in ignominy. Remember, you have the archive posts to prove that I deleted posts. Prove it.

Prove it or retract the cowardly accusation. I'm not denying I said anything about the laser method. I'm denying that I deleted that or any other post. Prove it or apologize. Or slink off into ignominy and near-perfect irrelevance.

I think I hear the sound of ignominious slinking . . .

Isn't it wired that way already?

Eggzackery.

It's where you drill that makes the difference. There are different leverage ratios at work along the length of the wedges, and also the thickness of the material changes in two planes along the length.

I would not even know how to delete a post. Prove your cowardly accusation, or slink off in your customary ignominy.

When nothing else can swell, you latch onto your tank . . . er so enquiring minds . . . swell . . .

I am categorically denying that I've ever deleted a single post. Period. End of story.

Are you accusing me of deleting a post? If not, WTF are you saying. For once, say it directly and succinctly, rather than babbling like a demented goat.

I also question whether alcohol could do this, but something appears to be going on. I've never seen a tank on which this has happened, but folks here and elsewhere have testified to it often enough that I can't really doubt that something is happening.

Commendatore: Had alcohol-laden fuels been made commonplace in your area before the swelling occurred?

Those of you who believe in this durometer nonsense should take a long, hard look at the design of those wedges, and if you know your stuff you will see that they were designed to act as a progressive spring, rendering the modulus less important than you believe it to be.