Greg Field

One more page . . . and thence on to the destined 90 pages.

I'm 6' 3". I have a Ballabio (handlebars) with a LeMans fairing installed on the bike. I also have Motobits foot controls. I never feel cramped and have no knee pain, even on 750-mile days.

I'd advise you to stop talking sense, Guzzimoto, but I really want to see 40 pages. Think it's possible to make them lose their minds even more thoroughly? Let's try . . . The mass of the copper insert in the stock holder is so miniscule compared to the mass of the head that the time delay for it coming to the same temp as that of the mass (versus the tips of the fins) of the cylinder head that I doubt the lag is greater than 2 seconds, if even that. It conducts heat just as efficiently back to the head as from the head to the sensor tip. That's why they used copper, which is a very expensive material. Therefore, assuming good contact or thermo goo, the small mass of the sensor tip added on will delay it maybe another 2 seconds. It's a short-term transient difference that cannot cause a steady state fault like poor running when hot at idle. If this were what were causing it, after a few seconds, your idle would return to normal. You're baying at the base of the wrong tree.

What's your problem with my duct tape? It's a rather poor, token attempt at insulating the sensor, yes, far less insulative than the plastic of the stock sensor housing. I really should insulate it beeter. My guess is you're trying to say I should nopt insulate it at all, and that's just bassackwards. Really, I'm coming to believe you and Ratch are losing your minds over this. But at least we're now one page closer to the magic 40. Buy stocks short, soon . . .

The gauntlet has been thrown . . .

Stellar! There's 40 more BQ points.

Duct tape is doing fine. Bike runs perfectly. By all means, carry on with your quest for a manual choke on your EFI system. Perhaps you could plumb one of those little watering bottles from a hamster cage into your intake. Fill it with gas, and rig up a cable to its vent to allow an extra dribble any time you wanted it. Better yet, why not a sparate bottle and cable control for each side, so you could make a custom "Hamster Commander IV" map for each cylinder? There're dozens of ways of kludging around fixing the real problem. This thread could go on to 90 pages if you 'n Ratch really started thinking "outside the hamster cage." Enquiring hamsters, well, you know . . .

Very good! Page 37. Carry on . . .

+1 to all of that. Some coonhounds're wasting time at the base of the wrong tree . . .

Totally badass, Mille. You should be very proud.

Based on what I see here, maybe my square tires really will be a sales hit?

Why not just jumper around the temp sensor if your intention is to simulate a manual choke on your EFI bike? I remain flummoxed. Perhaps a trailer full of electronics hooked to your sensor will get you to where you'd be if you just loaded a proper map onto your PC III? Perhaps the trailer is the point? Perhaps I really am a philistine? God, help me, but I want to get to 40 pages . . .

BQ is the acronym for "Bloviation Quotient."

Page 36, anyone? And can anyone guess what number the BQ is at?

Ask and ye shall receive. I think sun spot activity needs to be fed into the equation, since I can't see another means by which the sensor can get hotter than that which it is trying to get the temp of (the head).

5 more pages. And we need to raise the BQ a few more points, too. Who'll take the stage?

Dave R. has never owned a V11. I ride one nearly every day. I'll let you infer your own answer from that. If I were to rig up a variable input to fool the ECU it would be a variable voltage input that bypasses the sensor entirely. All the sensor does is supply a voltage to tell how hot the engine is. The engine is able to run on a leaner mixture far before that silly sensor tells the ECU to lean out the mixture. Set it to the "I'm cold" voltage for easy starting and then switch it to the "I'm hot" voltage a few minutes later. That would net you the best milage. This is the only approach to what you guys are trying to accomplish that nets any sensible amount of advantage over the sensor holder (either one) with either sold tip contact or good heat-transfer goo. This would be a "round tires" approach. Can you dig it? Or must we sit through 40 more pages of bloviation?

Any of you ever run coon hounds? There is no more glorious sound on earth than a brace of them on the scent and then at the base of the tree when they've cornered one. Being imperfect creatures, dogs sometimes blow it and sit there barking at an empty tree. I believe they sense they've blown it, so the tone of their bark changes, and it becomes a quite unpleasant racket. I sense that tone here. Who knows? It's been nearly 30 years since I chased hounds through the pitch-black woods of Wisconsin. Perhaps my ears are off?

Six more pages . . .

Excellent. One page closer to financial independence . . .

The copper used in the stock holder does heat up and cool down faster than if it were aluminum.

ANdrew: Congratulations! If that breather doesn't work for any reason, the breather from the Bellagio looks to be a good solution. It tucks neatly right behind the steering head.

Have him blend a custom gas to fill the gap.

I made a typo. I meant for 18mm i.d. on the bars. Yours looks to be just under 18mm. See if TM will swap them out.

I think that type needs the TMs for 8mm inner bar diameter. Measure the plug thing.