Greg Field

Ohlins USA doesn't offer anything for Guzzi. Elsewhere, they may.

Oh, I like the 18 setting. I keep it there unless it's icy.

I have Aprilia customers who ride and brake hard enough that some pad formulations fade in hard street riding on long, tight mountain roads. This is in new RSVs with Brembo brakes that are three generations improved in calipers and two generations improved in master cylinders compared to what's on a stock V11. Just because most of us don't or won't or can't make use of the brake improvements of the last 10 years doesn't mean there are others who don't or won't or can't.

Ratch: It's feel you get. I almost get a woody everytime I brake. The tips of my fingers can feel the rotor sliding through the pads. It's quite extraordinary.

It's a 15cc.

You wanna make them rotors hot, get the Brembo RCS m/c and give a squeeze . . .

Sarah Palin wants you to put some hair-on sealskin between the sensor tip and what it is supposed to be sensing. Isn't that the kind of lesson we are supposed to have learned from the last 8 years in US government? What is supposed to be is actually the opposite of what we should expect? Why on Bush's green earth would you want an accurate reading of that which you need to read? It could only lead you to conclusions that don't result in maximum profits to Halliburton and such. I have to ask: What has become of sense in this whirled? Is everyone worldwide rendered brain-dead by the Cheney-Republican machine?

He's caring for his parents in Pennsylvania. That racer had all three calipers operated off of the front master cylinder, through a proportioning valve.

Tom: There is a set of Aprilia seals available that fit that damper.

Beautiful!

Should fit just fine.

Well, I am sorry that my advice failed you. I so rarely see base gasket leaks that I try to save people time and money by not automatically replacing them. If you want one, I'll send a free base gasket.

Think how stimulating it would be for the goobermint to buy us each a new Griso . . .

Well, it was probably John Wittner who spec'd it. I'll ask him about it.

Well, it was probably John Wittner who spec'd it. I'll ask him about it.

Arek: If the leak is coming from the area around the short studs, changing the o-rings inside would be unlikely to fix it, as the o-rings for the short studs are underneath the cylinder. Is the oil showing itself only near the base gasket surface or also at the cylinder head, around the stud near the spark plug?

I've set up dozens of V11s with those sensor holders and conductive paste. They all ran great. I don't believe it's because I'm in chilly Seattle, either. Mine ran great in 100-plus-degree heat in California this summer.

I had my V11 Sport stuck like that last July in the mountains of Washington while trying to spelunk around some washed-out roads. Go riding, Doc. Do it carefully, though.

Yes, an absolutely fabulous lady. This is a real tragedy, but she's lucky enough to have Pete and Jude by her side.

If anybody needs a plate before Pete finishes more, I have some in stock.

Thanks for the compliments, all.

Gene: Call me at work Tuesday, and I can give you a couple ideas that have worked for us. I just don't have time to type it all out today.

Before you do anything, determine what type of oil is fouling your clutch. Wipe onto something clean one of the drips from the weephole on the underside of the bell housing. Sniff it. Does it smell like transmission oil or like engine oil? If it smells like transmission oil, the most likely culprit is part number GU14085900, the clutch pushrod seal. If you use the stock pieces, you will need two of them. A better seal, IMO, is the stack of o-rings the shop I work at assembles. The pushrod seal can be changed without removing the engine or transmission from the bike. Undo the swinarm spindles and roll back the swingarm and wheel for access. Then, you can flush the plates with mineral spirits by blocking the weephole below with a whittled stick or duct tape, pouring the spirits through the timing hole, starting the bike, and revving it gently while you feather in and out the clutch lever. Then drain and repeat at least once. If it's engine oil, check the big breather hose for cracks or a loose clamp. If that's all good, you're going to have to pull the engine. Change everything while you are in there. First, the gasket for the breather, GU12007600. Use sealant along with the gasket. Since the main seal has been tried before and didn't fix it, either the seal wasn't replaced properly. I'd recommend pulling the rear main bearing so you can totally properly install the seal (GU90405367, get hte real thing, which is viton) and replace the gasket (GU12001800) underneath. To do it right, you will need the puller and then the two-piece tool to seat and install the rear main seal. I can lend you mine. Use sealant on the gasket. Also, use solvent to clean the threads of the two lower mounting holes that were drilled through into the crankcase. You will need to clean the bolts, too, and then use thread sealer on those two only. Finally, clean the gap around the welch plug up by where the breather attaches. Blow it out with air, and then goop sealnt into the gap. I use JB Weld for that. Also, change out the trans input seal (GU90403548). Get the real Guzzi seal, which is a waveform type.

Extra points for a sly John Prine reference.

You should replace the springs. There are two options in springs: The stock ones (GU13084100) or the ones from the V11 Sports (04084100).