Greg Field

I have long believed that Guzzi needs to dry-sump its twin, to lower the overal height of the powerplant, so they could lower it in the frame to net all kinds of benefite. Like everyone else, Guzzi ignores everything I say.

+1. I just went through the same thing, except that the only symptom was melting plastic on the fuses.

Mike: Thanks. I'm not going to worry about a little tightness. What manufacturer and part number for the crosses?

Recently, my '04 Ballabio began cooking fuses, at unpredictable intervals. One thing I noticed right away when changing the fuse was that the contacts in the fusebox for that fuse put markedly less "clamp" on the contacts of the fuse than did hte other contacts in the fusebox. The new fuse slid in and out almost without resistance, whereas the others were difficult to remove and insert. This loss of tension could've been a result of all the heat or coul've been the cause of the heat. To find out if there might be another cause, I pulled all the plastic covers under hte fusebox, so I could pull it out where I could get a good view of the wiring to the box. That revealed the real cause: Green corrosion all over the output (to battery) connector. So, I did what Docc did, cutting the stock fuse out of the circuit and plumbing in an outboard fuse. It seems to be working, but only time will tell. If it does not, I'll just replace the wires from the regulator with a new harness of good, tinned 10-gauge wire.

You'd have to pound some pretty serious divots into the Stucchi crossover to make it work with the centerstand. The Mistral works just fine with the centerstand. Centerstands are still available, or at least I know I have a few in stock.

Yes; they are.

No solution yet. Still looking for the right crosses. On mine and every other one I've examined, the caps that are installed into the yokes on the main shaft are the stiff ones at each end. Same on yours?

I got the new RCS m/c with a switchable pivot for 18 or 20. I'll try both out and see which works best for my tastes. It's a lovely piece that I just fell in love with it at Brembo tech training and had to try out. How else does one learn what works and what doesn't? Plus, I can't let hte 'prilier and duc boys have all the fun.

We shall see. I'll report it if it's shit. I just like to experiment.

Pulled out the spare shaft. I got it from a bike with 6,000 miles. It also has one set of caps at each end that're stiff. It's actually stiffer than my 24,000-mile shaft. Perhaps this is normal? In any case, I'm going to run it and see how long it lasts.

Just a data point: I pulled the rear of my V11 apart the other day. One of the rear u-joint crosses is stiff, but there's no play at the coupling. Solid as can be.

I talked to the Redline folks again today, mostly to explore the possibilities of some new products. I also talked to them again about the RLSH. They unreservedly recommedned it for Guzzi transmissions and rear drives. I asked about the "chalk" alegation, and they siad that what made shockprood "shockproof" was the moly, not anything else. When pressed about change intervals, they suggested "every other year," despite mileage. I cannot imagine them recommending such a change interval, which is against their financial interests, if they were not fully confident of the product for that use. I ordered a few more cases and will continue its use in my own bikes.

I just pulled the rear wheel to change out the tire and dug deeper, just because. There's a little weeping at the trans rear seal, so it needed replacing. That meant taking off the swingarm and rear drive. That's all easy enough and gave opportunity for detailed examination of the driveshaft and swingarm bearings. The swingarm bearings are notchy and really rough. There were no handling symptoms. Even so, they have to go. Same for the driveshaft. No symptoms, but the failure mode is typical—meaning no play in the bearings but definite stiffness in one set of caps up front and one set in the back. That's kinda disturbing, since I was pretty methodical in lubing the u-joints. I'm half thinking of running this shaft until they show symptoms, and half thinking of replacing it with another used one I have. What to do? Also up is a radial master cylinder for the front brakes and who knows what else?

I have one in stock at Moto Intl. for less than the MGC price.

Sounds like a clutch flush might be needed. Get a pint of mineral spirits. I'm out of time but will try to write up the procedure later.

I think I have a few left at MI, if you can't source them anywhere else. I'm out of the shop until Tuesday, though.

I had exactly that happen on my '04 Ballab last year in Hyder, Alaska. We had limped along a non-charging Quota from Prince George BC to Hyder and then on several day trips before heading back. On the day we left for BC, the connectors shorted out. I replaced them at the side of the road and it has been OK since. Expcept now it is starting to melt the fuses. The heat has caused the metal conductors in the fusebox to "relax" such that there isn't much tension between the conductors of the fusebox and fuse. I'll have to fix that soon.

No charge light on the late bikes. Check also the 30-amp fuse to see if it started to melt.

I think they are made of some graphite matrix stuff. Any Guzzi dealer should have them. An installation tip: Loosen all the clamps in the system, as well as the header bolts. Fit the bushings and then fit the crossover into both header pipes. Then, wrap a motorcycle tiedown around both headers. Cinch it tight, which will seat the front crossover sockets firmly into the bushings. Then wiggle everything so it can find where it wants to be. Tighten the header bolts and then all the clamps. At Moto I, we haven't seen a single leaker since we began fitting them thusly.

As I said, he's notoriously full of shit, so who knows? He says he still has it, but it's in storage somewhere so I can't grab back the carbon-fiber fairing he stole from me. He grew disillusioned with his V11 when he finally realized that it wasn't a fluke that my Eldo with cast-iron touring tires could leave his "fastest Guzzi on the West Coast" with race rubber for dead on any twisty road. Then, he bought an RC-51 and did a few track days on it. then, he sold that and now "street races" a Morphous scooter. He doesn't show his face much in places I go.

I installed a set on the V11 of former site member Enzo/Capt. Nemo. He raved about it adding gains everywhere. He is notoriously full of shit, though, so I do not know what to believe.

Just note the arrows, and install them in place of the stock pistons. Nothing to it.

THe North AMerican wing of Piaggio has been out of the kit for the late bikes for some time, but you may be able to find someone who still has stock. I have one for the early bikes in stock. The only difference is the ECU. This is of no consequence if you will be adding a PCIII.

The K&L 90-deg. stems work on V11 wheels. Got 'em on my Ballabio. Expect to pay on the order of $15 each for them. We have them at Moto Intl. if your local dealer doesn't have them.

The Sport one will rub on the tire of a LeMans. Get the LM version. If only the sport one is currently available, I can show you how to modify it to work on an LM.