Greg Field

Optimate III? If so, it'll work fine w/ an Odyssey. Unplug the cord and then plug in again to give it another cycle.

I have a functional spare non-Ohlins shock you could use until your Ohlins is replaced.

To get to the relief valve, the particle would have to go through the filter first. I'm guessing you weren't told everything about what they found in there . . .

Just a minor addition: There were disc-brake Eldo Calis made for model year 1975. I have seen build dates of as late as March 1975. All of these I have seen were police bikes.

I work at a Guzzi dealership. We've seen very few issues. Most are annoying but not really serious things like leaky dashes on B11s and Norges. We've got some with up to 50,000 miles on them so far, mostly from commuting in-city, and the owners are totally happy with them. It's easy to modify things so that B11 and Norge centerstands no longer touch down. If you like good suspension, the Griso is the best choice.

Anyone have a used MRA they want to part with? Thanks!

Here's my approach to heated grips on V11s: 1) V11s have minimal excess electrical capacity, so efficiency is key. 2) Because efficiency is key, you should not even consider any system that uses a resistor to effect the "low" setting. Why? Because such systems use basically the same amount of power on "low" as on "hi" settings. More sophisticated heaters have two circuits built in to each grip—one for hi and one for low. These consume less power on the low setting, which you will likely use most often 3) Another efficiency consideration is differential heating of left and right grips. The foil-type heaters, when mounted directly to the steel of the left bar waste a lot of energy heating the handlebar (the throttle-side element is thermally insulated from the handlebar by the throttle tube). The cheapest foil grips have identical elements for both sides, which means your left hand will get less heat than the right, if mounted conventionally. More sophisticated foil heaters have differential elements such that the clutch side puts out more heat, which also means it consumes more electricity. 4) Yet another efficiency consideration is getting the most heat to your fingers for each watt consumed. The closer the heating elements are to your skin, the more heat you will net per watt consumed. Based on all this, I think the best system for the watt-challenged Guzzis is to use foil-type heaters designed for ATVs and to mount them on top of the grips. The ATV grips have separate built-in hi/lo circuits and put out the same amount of heat to both grip heaters. I mount them over my rubber grips and then cover them with a foam over-wrap (for the guys who like fatter grips) or with shrink-tubing (for those who like thinner grips). If the person wants the best way to control the grips, I hook them up through an electronic controller (the type that varies heat by varying the duty cycle, not through variable resistance). This way, I just hook the controller to the hi circuit, and leave the lo circuit unwired. This controller allows dialing the right amount of heat and using no more scarce power than necessary to produce that heat. For guys who do not wnat to spend the extra money for the heat controller, I just wire in the hi/lo switch.

Here's my approach to heated grips on V11s: 1) V11s have minimal excess electrical capacity, so efficiency is key. 2) Because efficiency is key, you should not even consider any system that uses a resistor to effect the "low" setting. Why? Because such systems use basically the same amount of power on "low" as on "hi" settings. More sophisticated heaters have two circuits built in to each grip—one for hi and one for low. These consume less power on the low setting, which you will likely use most often 3) Another efficiency consideration is differential heating of left and right grips. The foil-type heaters, when mounted directly to the steel of the left bar waste a lot of energy heating the handlebar (the throttle-side element is thermally insulated from the handlebar by the throttle tube). The cheapest foil grips have identical elements for both sides, which means your left hand will get less heat than the right, if mounted conventionally. More sophisticated foil heaters have differential elements such that the clutch side puts out more heat, which also means it consumes more electricity. 4) Yet another efficiency consideration is getting the most heat to your fingers for each watt consumed. The closer the heating elements are to your skin, the more heat you will net per watt consumed. Based on all this, I think the best system for the watt-challenged Guzzis is to use foil-type heaters designed for ATVs and to mount them on top of the grips. The ATV grips have separate built-in hi/lo circuits and put out the same amount of heat to both grip heaters. I mount them over my rubber grips and then cover them with a foam over-wrap (for the guys who like fatter grips) or with shrink-tubing (for those who like thinner grips). If the person wants the best way to control the grips, I hook them up through an electronic controller (the type that varies heat by varying the duty cycle, not through variable resistance). This way, I just hook the controller to the hi circuit, and leave the lo circuit unwired. This controller allows dialing the right amount of heat and using no more scarce power than necessary to produce that heat. For guys who do not wnat to spend the extra money for the heat controller, I just wire in the hi/lo switch.

What was the mechanical cause of the oiling failure? Sounds like it had to be a complete failure, which could be caused by only very few things, such as a sheared pump drive, unscrewed filter, or ?. Did this same dealership perform the service prior to the failure?

Here's how we established here that there was moly in RLSH. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hl=strawberries Some folks here thought that pink color was ground-up strawberries or something. You should use either a moly additive, such as Power Punch, or a lube that already contains moly.

It never gets really hot here in Seattle. The hottest day I remember here in 14 years was 97-degrees F. A very warm summer day is in the mid-80s F. Here's what I have seen as typical for oil temps on a calibrated thermostaic dipstick on my V11 Ballabio on a day in the 80s F. (all after the machine is fully warmed up): Steady state cruising on the freeway: 100-105 C. Running really hard through the twisties: 125 C. Heavy traffic stop-and-go: 140 C. 140 C. is way too hot for yak fat. It's iffy even with top-shelf synths if the oil stays at those temps for long. Even the best oil is cheap compared to, say, a crankshaft. Save the yak fat for your lawnmower . . .

I think the Ohlins on the '01-03 RSVR, except for those on the Edwards and Haga (which have radial calipers), will work. I'll measure a set today at work. (At least I think we have one of those in for repair.)

Are your mirrors like CRGs? If so, it's possible to mount both the weights and the CRGs. THis is what I did on my Ballabio. I used the heavier weights we (Moto Intl.) sell as a kit, though you could just as easily use the stock weights.

It's very similar to the fender from an '04 and later RSV (that Coppa has been upgraded with radial brakes) with Ohlins, such as the 04-06 Factory or any of the 07 and later machines. For your bike, with non-radial calipers, you need the fender from an 00-03 Mille R. That fender is shown on my bike.

You can mount your current fairing more rearward and so that it swings with the bars. It works and looks better that way, IMO. This requires moving the headlight back to swing with the bars, too, in which case you could use any of the fairings on that site. To do this, you will need to make or buy some headlight brackets.

Lafranconi Competitiones.

I rode a customer's bike for a week or so in effort to help diagnose a handling problem. It was an intermittent problem that didn't seem to occur until at least 20 minutes in to a ride. Sometimes, it would start to feel like the rear tire was going flat, and then stop. I even pulled over a couple times because I was sure the tire was going flat. Sometimes it would begin a low-amplitude weave and then stop and then begin again, seemingly at random. The problem was an intermittently wonky steering damper. It was an Ohlins, too, on a Cafe SPort.

Worn splines on the trans input hub or the i.d. of the flywheel, or a warped intermediate plate, can cause these symptoms.

I do not have them on my V11. It's on the bench, getting a Lemans fairing grafted on. Before that, it had CRGs.

If you want the Ti pipes, I can get you a set.

Or try the mirrors from the 1200 Sport/Aprilia SXV. THey're cheap, look good and work well for most people on the V11s. I'm even using them on my Eldorado.

At Moto Intl., we offer a set that are heavier and do a better job . . . or we may have the stock ones, depending on what year and model your bike is.

Not really. The imbalances in breathing often change with rpm, so it's a moving target that you'll never get balanced everywhere without port work aimed at doing so.

IMO, attempts to balance at 3,000 rpm are a waste of time, unless you do it on a dyno, with the engine under load. Sitting in neutral, on the bench, the throttle is cracked what, 1/16th open to maintain 3,000 rpm? Far less, anyway, than it would be if the engine were under load. Also, once the throttles are opened much, breathing variation between the two heads is what causes the imbalance, not the throttle plates, unless the plates are way, way out, which they won't be if you first get the synch right.

Sounds pretty normal. That said, check for burrs on the rocker or a bushing that isn't fully pressed home.