Greg Field

It will fit. The springs're different length, sometimes, but that shouldn't matter. It's the ECU programming that' different between the kits. The early kit is for through 2002 models in Europe and through mid-2003 in US.

If that doesn't work, email me at parts (at) motointernational.com with the VIN number. We can run it for you.

Best to get it all from someone who took same off their bike. The Coppa headlight is the same size as the LeMans headlight. I think the adjuster is different, though.

The larger Ducati reg/rect is fairly inexpensive. If I get time, I may hook one up and see if it pumps up output at all. If the Ducati reg does pump out more than the N-D, it would be fairly easy to change to it or one of the aftermarket ones to again the extra 20w.

So far as I know, all US V11 models from late 2003 (with front crossover) through the end have the N-D regulator. I do not know if these make a lower output, but it is possible. Guzzi literature brags about the alternator system on the Cal Vintage being uprated to 350 watts. Perhaps that's because starting with the Vintage, the Cali models got the alternator/reg combo used on the Breva 750s and Nevada IEs, which is the Ducati alternator with a larger, black regulator? Oddly, though the parts books all show the Breva 750s all having this latter Ducati regulator, I have seen plenty of Brevas with the N-D regulator.

Ryland: I have never heard of a failed ND reg/rect on a V11. I abused the hell out of mine this summer on the Alaska trip, and it still works perfectly. Bob: Odysseys sometimes will take a "set" when used long-term with a trickle charger. Discharge it fairly well and then whack it with a 6- to 10-amp rate for an hour. That often resotres their full cranking power. If you do not have one of these chargers, drop the battery at the shop and I can whack it.

Here's the dyno charts for my '04 Ballabio: This is for a bike with an airbox modded per Phil A.'s earlier pattern, Mistral corssover, and Mistral cans. It also has the front crossover. No torque dip and still has decent top end.

Ryland: The Cafe Sport would have the smallish Nippon-Denso reg/rect. The Breva 750, Nevada IE, and Cal Vintage had the larger, black-ish Ducati reg./rect.

I think it's a 10mm crush washer under the switch, but that's just from memorey. Try tightening it a 10th of a turn.

If you just need the lens, it's also available from Guzzi. I can get the part number when I go back to work tomorrow. As for the lever, the aftermarket ones work OK (sometimes the inner piece needs some filing to make it fit right). They do not match any of the three different colors used on the various V11 levers. The aftermarket ones are a dark gray to dark silver, depending on batch. The adjusters are sometimes silver and sometimes gold. The shop I work at (Moto Intl.) sells the aftermarket levers for on the order of $20 and the real Brembo ones for on the order of $70 (versus the $120 Guzzi gets for them). Another good option is to upgrade to CRG or Pazzo levers. You want the large-pivot levers.

That is my recollection. I replaced my spring about a year ago, and I didn't have any special tools.

Remove the shock from the bike. Clean the threads for the pre-load collars and lube them with light oil. Fit one end in a vice and clamp it. Use a spring pre-load wrench to undo the collars.

A 2001 could be either. If a Rosso Mandello, it came with a single-plate clutch. If not a Rosso, it came with a dual-plate clutch. What it has now I could not tell you. Yes it will rattle when you pull in the lever.

They've used at least three different regulators over the years. First, the silver Ducati. Second, the dark gray Nippon-Denso. Now the black and much larger Ducati. The last of these seems not to fail and costs abut half what the others cost. Connector changes required to us it with the earlier versions of the alternator, and you lose function of the charge light.

Read and follow the instructions in this masterpiece: http://www.mindspring.com/~wayne.orwig/SpeedoFix.pdf

There are no pegs on that one. You have to pry off the ring. Do that, and have a look. It sometimes is something simple. If you need a specific part, I may have a donor with that part still operable.

Yes, those are the right part numbers. We do have them.

You can get sticker kit 01923340, which has those decals. It costs about $150 US. Not sure what it would cost in the UK. If your local dealer can't get it, I cna order it for you. It is in stock at Moto Guzzi US.

TM: Just a clarification: We do not use Rotella T at MI. At least I have never seen it there. For the V11s, we generallly use a semi-synth Motul 15w-50. This is pretty good oil. It is only semi-syth, but the synth in it is the best type, polyolester. Inm y own bike, I usually blend my own from Redline and another full synth (as opposed to a "fake" synth, which is hydro-cracked mineral oil that is marketed in the US as synthetic, such as syntech or Rotella T) that is also rated SG. I am an odd duck, though. I see a lot of the insides of engines, and this has convinced me that oil is cheap, even at the $15 a quart the manufacturers charge for their best stuff. This winter, I'm running a blend of three quarts 10w-60 and one quart of Redline 10-40. Grease: I use redline. I pumped grease through to drive out most of what was in there, rotated the shaft a few times, and pumped more out. Kind of a "grease change, I guess. Compatibility becomes less of an issue then. DId you get the shop manual on CD or paper? I can get you the Ballabio/Cafe supplement.

I like that homecooked crossover, and I would like to do a direct comparison between the Mistral and Stucchi on the dyno. It'd cost some money to do this that I don't really want to spend right now, both for dyno time and for the crossover itself. I put on a set of MG Ti mufflers yesterday, and that seems to have given it more pull from 5500 rpm on up, plus that unbeatable sound. It's picked up a hiccup at part throttle from 2,000-3,000 rpm, though, so I'll eventually try a re-map. Perhaps by then I'll be in a position to try the Stucchi, too. Actually, I did a personal audition of all the crossovers once on my own "butt dyno," riding my bike on the same day with the stock, Mistral, and Succhi crossovers, and found I liked the really smooth low and mid-range power of the Mistral more than I liked the top-end rush of the Stucchi. I commute on this bike in fairly heavy traffic most days. For that, the Mistral is far more satisfying. It pulls cleanly from 1500 rpm anytime I ask it to. I could live with the Stucchi, though. But that would mean I'd have to take off the centerstand, and I would miss that more than I miss the 3-5 hp at 8,000 rpm that I'm giving up. Life is all about compromises. I do not believe the Mistral cost me any power compared to the stock crossover. It feels like it has more power everywhere, especially between 1500 and 5500 rpm. I believe it may have cost some top-end power compared to what it would make if I had the Stucchi fitted, though. I seldom ride at 7,500 rpm, though. I'm happy to have nearly 80 hp from 5500 rpm on and absolutely no torque dip. What it feels like it needs most now is port work and more cam. I think it would also benefit form measuring clearances and seeing if I can up the c/r and tighten the squish. I'm doing all this on my Eldo right now. After that's done, maybe I'll play with the V11 engine some to see what's possible. One guy told me of some intriguing work he's involved in. They cut divots in the i.d. of the ports, like those on a golf ball, and the work so far suggests real gains can be had. I may try that.

I have a Gerbing's jacket liner. When cranked full-on, with the headlight on, the system voltage falls to 12.5. During the day, I keep the headlight in the park position (I have the Euro switch). I'm working on a way to fit a larger alternator, like the one I fitted to my Eldo.

1. Never. I'll look at it each time I remove the pan, but there's never anything on it. 2. Any good gear oil. We use Maxima 80/90 at Moto Intl., unless someone wants better, in which case we put in Redline Shockproof Heavy 3. The moly is for the bevelbox only. It's not snake oil. We use PowerPunch at Moto Intl. If you put Shockproof in, you do not need additional moly because that oil is chock full of moly. If you're looking for a source, we sell it and ship parts all over the world daily. A lifetime supply is about $10. 4. Use a synth grease that is compatible with other greases. I use Redline's grease in mine. You will almost certainly need an adjustable tip for your grease gun to grease the front cross. 5. If there's stuff on the screen, I look for the problem first (cracked air filter, breaking parts) that is allowing big chunks of stuff into my sump. Then, after the motor rebuild, I blow the screen off with compressed air. 6. With a rag and solvent. If you want to find inconsistencies or errors in the service manual, you needn't look far. The page that shows how to adjust damping on your Ohlins forks is wrong. The page that recommends 5w-40 oil is pulled straight out of the Cali PI manual (they didn't even change the header or footer), and thus the 5w-50 recommendation is also likely wrong. You'll find more accurate info here than there . . .

Adding to what Skeeve said, it's free power while allowing those who are so inclined to keep in place a paper filter. Plus, it's kinda fun . . . and helpful on the occasions where we are at WOT trying to pass that 14th-in-a-row semi in the only passing lane for the next 23 miles.

The eagle is, I think, the same as on the Norge. If so, it's not a decal; it's a 3-D badge.