big J

Oh, no fer gawds sake dont, I bet he wont sleep a wink tonight. Nogbad, I bet it will be the best shifting bike ever made by the hand of man. Well, no worse than it was before. Maybe a wee bit reluctant sometimes. It's new parts,and third gear was always stiff anyway. Those extra neutrals will improve your shifting technique. Buy some steel toecap boots. And shares in Slick 50.And a C90, just in case. And the AA. Look up "Gear Cutters" in the phone book and eep the number handy, you never know. But I bet it's fine.

Wait til Sunday, boys. So, who's going to be second this week? My money's on Colin.[What little there is left.]

Well done.you mad fool. Welcome to the twilight world of the terminally bewildered.

This wouldn't be the world famous "edge guard" would it? If so, there's a 4 page thread about it. Try to pay attention at the back,please.

Spoke to Richard at Maxton today, custom made shock for my weight/type of use will cost £480. Dear, but considering I'd been quoted £200 to rebuild the Sachs by another specialist or £695 for an Ohlins, I'm pretty pleased. Apparently thre was a Guzzi racing at the TT this year and Maxton did the suspension for it, fitted one of their shocks and resprung and revalved the Ohlins forks to suit the rider. Does anyone have any info, was it a v11 or an MGS?

If you need seals or bearings, try a local bearing factor first. The seals are usually a generic type seal probably used in something else, same goes for bearings. These guys are generally much cheaper than bike shops. Where do you think most bike shops get theirs? Yup.

BFG Were you a spectator at the races '74 or '75? Saw my first race in '76 at Knockhill in Scotland and I'm still knocked out by it. Seeing them old bikes again fair takes me back, Kangol leathers, Premier helmets and all that stuff- magic.

Got home tonight,back end was feeling a bit loose so I thought I'd blow up the tyre,but didnt get round to it.Jo went out to water the garden, and called me outside- pool of oil under the bike-WTF? Investigation led to finding that the rear damper is bolloxed. Bugger. Quite fancy an Ohlins, but the wallet had a rare old laugh at that notion. So, Maxton it is. Ron Maxton suspension is used by many of the road racers, the units are custom made to suit rider weight, type of use,etc. You can have as much or as little adjustability as you like. I dont know how to do one of those link things, but if you go for www.maxtonsuspension.co.uk you should get it.

Hylomar should be applied with a paintbrush, one about 3/8" dia. Cut the bristles so that they're about 1/2 inch long, squeeze a wee bit onto the brush[like toothpaste] and stipple it onto the mating face.When it goes fluffy, it's right. Needless to say, dont use too much, a very light coating is sufficient. For a repair like Belfasts, I've used Sikaflex with good results, tho the area to be repaired has to be clean and dry before application. Or do like a good few race shops do and use B&Q bathroom sealant as gasket sealant.No, I'm not kidding-it's very good.

I've got Bering gloves that cope with everything fom snow to torrential rain, warm hands all the time and no leaks. Recommended.

I say,old bean, us Glesga boys are noted for our culture, debonaire style,wit and haute couture. Our sense of humour is simply a tad more robust than the other chaps. The myth of the mad Glaswegian is one instilled in us by our finishing school mistresses to add an air of mild over exuberance to overcome our natural shyness so that strangers are immediately put at ease in our company. That, or rendered unconscious.

I've reread this thread,and can find no criticism anywhere. As far as I can see, you have had nothing but offers of help and well meaning advice. A little gentle leg pulling is not criticism.

Sorry, rechecked my notes, 18deg constant, 22deg momentary delection

Good stuff, but I'd imagine joint deflection would be a limiting factor. Anybody know what the maximum angle is? From my time building off road racing buggies, 18degrees was about the maximum a normal joint could take before premature failure.

Usually milky oil would suggest emulsification caused by the oil not geting hot enough, but from what I've read in the forum, the moly additive causes the same effect.

GPS? You've got a good tongue in your head, if you're lost,use it. Meet the locals and have a wee adventure. Personally, I'd prefer never to have to rely on "technology".

Possibly a dumb question, but there's no chance this is fuel related? Does the computer have a way of shutting down the ecu if it detects too lean a mixture? Alternatively, if the reg/rec senses overcharge from generator, could this shut it down? Just a couple of stabs in the dark, I'm afraid.

Ok guys, how the hell do you keep your bikes so clean? We went to the Erin rally, everyones bike looks great,all shiny and new. I check out the pics on the forum, lovely shiny bikes. Before the rally, I washed mine and cleaned it for two hours and it still looked like I just rode across a field. I give up.

Cant see what difference it would make, I plan to remove mine when I give the bike a tidy up over winter. I suppose there is a small chance that joint could break up, but this should be spotted during routine maintainance. I cant see the shaft comin apart on full travel.

Interesting,so the Ohlins is 26mm longer than the stock sachs and has 10mm longer stroke. Are the Ohins kitted bikes fitted with different mounting points on the frame/ swingarm? Will fitting an Ohlins shock to a sachs equipped one jack up the back end?

Fair play to you Hog, you're demonstrating the same determined, stubborn, sheer bloody mindedness to fix the thing that Guzzi owners are famed for"it's an old fashioned air cooled twin, I'll get it going, now hand me that hammer and chisel, Ethel, and read the bit about diaster adjustment again." Personally, and not to doubt for a moment your prowess with a spanner, I'd go right back to basics first. Valves, TPS, sync tbs. Are you using gauges to synchronise the tbs? If so, have they been calibrated? Have you done a compression test? Are things like the HT leads, coil wires etc ok. Work to the KISS principle, and if you swap over anything right to left, do it one piece at a time and check. It almost sounds like this is going to be one of those problems, that when solved everyone goes "of course, I was just going to ask if you'd checked that". Keep plugging away at it, you'll get it!

Yep, right enough. One of the geat things about this forum is the accumulation of shared experience. I posted a while back that on a late night run back from Scotland, I "yellow lined" the old girl for about 25 miles, she was going like gangbusters that night. Next evening,washing her down, the valve came off in the sponge Fair woke me up, that one. It looked like corrosion did it in at the base. I believe Nogbad and Belfast had similar experiences. I'd say to anyone who still has those alloy( shitanium-Nogbad) valves, change them for steel ones, particularly if the bike has seen heavy road salt, as I believe mine had. BFG did the socks match,tho? Never trust a dealer with matching socks.

If you've got a knackered wrist,some of these V11's vibrate a bit. It might help to sandwich rubber washers between steel when fitting the risers. I think I read this somewhere on the forum, but I cant find it.

Readings should be taken from the top and bottom pins on the TPS and should be read with the ignition switched on and the kill switch in the "run" position. With the cold start mechanism disconnected from the right hand throttle body, and the connecting bar removed it should read 140mV. Reconnect cold start and bar, it should read 375mV for a stock set up or 525mV if you've got a Power Commander, adjusted by the 2.5mm grub screw on the left throttle body. This is a highly truncated version, check the "setting TPS, synchronising, etc" info in the forum. These settings are of course optimum factory type settings, in realitythey can be all over the place. Is the bike running ok? If it is,dont mess with it, get down on your knees and thank the Luigi that built it that you got a good one.