big J

I gotta bottle,whatcha doin tonite big boy? BTW,in the last couple of days I worked my way thoru a 40 ouncer of best Islay malt. for a while I ws nearly seein worms.Strongest whisky i evr had,cam out the back door

So exactly what does the graph illustrate? Nothing.Lines in a box,no reference to useable baseline data whatsoever. Your last paragraph is gibberish if you are using the graph as a quantifiable source.How could the engineer? responsible possibly know the torsional strength of the axle used in the Marzocchi fork,for example? Another thing,if you do not strip the damper units in the rebound leg and simply invert,pump and refill,you may have trapped air in the damper cartridge which will render any meaningful measurements and settings total nonsense.Yet I note that you do not strip them,simply invert them which means you have an unknown amount of air,fluid and sediment which you cannot possibly measure lying trapped within the damper unit. I can appreciate that you have done a bit of work on your forks,however your findings are by no means the definitive or final solution.There are as many settings as there are riders.The forks should be stripped COMPLETELY and cleaned thoroughly before any baseline settings can be forwarded with the proviso that THESE SETTINGS ARE WHAT SUIT ME ONLY. In fact,having re-read your last paragraph I would like a further clear and lucid explanation. And try to do it without being patronising or a smartarse.

That's an excellent point Dave,as the fork legs have differing functions,it should be remembered that perhaps differing oil viscosities and levels could be accomodated to suit different riding styles/requirements.

Just remember,Ratchethacks settings are right for Ratchethack only.Everyone has different needs and riding styles which would require different set ups.Dont be afraid to experiment with a different method of setting up your front end. It should be reiterated here that what works for one rider will be complete anathema to another.Find what works for YOU,not somebody else.

As I've told you already,you will never get all the oil out without completely dismantling the damper cartridges.The rebound leg,if I remember correctly has no holes at the top,so when inverted is like a cup holding all the oil.You can pump away like a cross between a porn star and an anti aircraft gun,the oil will stay where it is.The fork leg will therefore retain the majority of the old oil.It should be completely dismantled to clean it out.There's plenty of crap in there which has to come out to avoid premature wear.

Thanks Paul.The children are suspiciously absent,I wonder if they've been reading over my shoulder. E4000 is good value for the amount of time and effort these guys have put in.Better than tubeless spoked wheels for E2000! I,ve mailed them,will see what they say.

Wow,thanks Paul. I'm going to sell some of the children. Maybe all of them. Does it say how much?Or the Big Bore?

Can anybody translate the engine details?I bought an Italian/English dictionary,but it doesnt have technical terms in it. In one pic,it looks aircooled but there's a radiator on the new racebike.There's no way it would fit a V11 without some surgery,but it looks bloody good.

Christ,hard lines Foxy,thats lousy.At least you're ok.Have you tried http://Reboot guzzi spares?

Good point Raz,I've wondered that myself.The load path from the swinger would normally dictate that if the shock eye was to crack under normal fatigue patterns,it would go at the top,not the bottom. Personally,I reckon it's bad materials.Maybe the eye wasn't properly heat treated or it may be the wrong spec of ally.I dunno for sure.Possibly even poor manufacture,though the part seems well enough finished. My Sachs spat out all its oil a good while back.Fitted a Maxton unit.It's the dogs' swingers.

Yeah,good report an all,but I was expectin something a bit saucier given the title. And not one "Last Train" joke yet.

Yeah,I've seen loads of race bikes with breather catch tanks,afaik it's a requirement. I was just going to try something a bit more elegant and simple. I'm not a huge fan of using the frame as an oil condensor,especially if the bike is laid up outside for any length of time,like mines was,with potential corrosion/condensation shit dropping straight into the cases when it's run.

It's not the tranny rattling? Is the starter gear returning properly?

Yeah. Cos I want to.

To follow on and tie in with the other thread where the fella made a depth guage,why not just glue in a big lump of rubber into the manhole cover? He's got the right idea if you're worried about it,maybe just different materials? It would compress against the bottom of the filter and stop it unscrewing. Obviously it would have to be the right shore rating to avoid torsional issues,be oil resistant,have repeated compressibility tolerance and be easily replaceable

Anybody replaced the oil breather pipe from the case to the frame with a normal breather filter?

Could it be the clutch chattering? Did you try pulling the clutch lever to see if it went away? Snap!!!!!!!

This motor is for racing only? Or could it be used on the street,detuned a bit. Even 120bhp would be mad.

DAVE NO NO NO FOR GODS SAKE NO DONT DO IT Dont recommend a K&N filter There'll be 25000 word essays about how it's not good for your diesel truck engine with diagrams and graphs and everything

Jeeezus Greg,those levers! Do you have claws like a lobster?

Hey Joe,nice to see you back 1 no 2 no 3 ? 4 yes........no............maybe...........you've had a Guz,you know how it is 5 yes,tho I'm not sure about the flywheel

As per the Roper method, "til just before you fart"

$2000 for a tank?Fu(k off,that's taking the piss http://www.thetankshop.com Bugger,any of you guys got the link for Johns place? S'okay,got it.

So,we've finally got definitive figures detailing properties,profiles and materials specs,interference fits,etc,etc. Can't we just say- Tighten the filter to contact by hand. Then HORSE the fecker up tight.

True