richard100t

Am I the only one here that thinks the stock stalks & blinkers do not flow with the bikes lines? I've recently replaced front & rear signals when I put in the fender eliminator kit & I love the smaller led blinkers. To each his own I suppose.

Well I was worried about it before I read your post. So I removed the rear wheel, checked the bearing, cleaned & greased everything & reassembled I'm pretty sure you're right & that it was just the old grease breaking down & thinning out. It never hurts to clean & regrease things Besides that old grease was making one hell of a mess :!:

Theres some black grease leaking out on the rear drive side. It looks like its coming out from around the washer thats between the bearing & the swingarm. Is this because of the extremely hot weather lately, or maybe I was just a little too liberal with the grease last time I had the wheel off? Thats been a few thousand miles though & I dont remember it doing this before. Could it be the bearing is going bad? I'm going to go out & investigate further. Anyone else notice this on their bike?

I just used some cheapo $15 set of aftermarket signals I bought at a local bike shop. Sorry I dont have a camera right now so no pics.

I have the FBF eliminator kit on my bike. It was an easy bolt on thing that works well. I used aftermarket smaller turn signals though. If you ride in the rain much though you'll need to put a plate in the hole under the tail. Thats no big deal though, I never ride in the rain so I dont worry about it. Btw it makes the bike look 100% better.

I was recently wondering if the heads could be removed & jet coated like the exhaust pipes. Since I havent seen it done yet there must be a reason why it cant be done. That would really look great if it were possible.

Now you know we're dying to see some pictures of your new bike with that race can!

I think the MGS01 is already a classic & will hold its value. Trouble is, there just arent enough of them to get excited about. If you looked at ebay recently two Rosso Mandello's sold for over $7000 each. The RM's are definitely holding up well lately.

The only trouble now is that overnight someone seems to have replaced my forks with broomhandles. Suppose thats what happens when you upgrade, other parts start to feel inferior, where previously I was quite happy. Does Maxton make forks? I've only heard of the rear shock from Maxton. I wouldnt mind replacing my broomsticks someday & I dont want to pay through the nose for Ohlins & have to worry about the fork seals.

I can personally attest to the fact a v11 can run "out" of gas with over a gallon still in it. It happened to me one time & that was enough for me. Now I fill it up around or before 130 miles on the tripmeter. I was scratching my head trying to figure out why my bike wouldnt run when there was clearly still gas in the tank As soon as I put gas in it, the bike ran fine though so thats what it was. I think I had about 155 miles on the tripmeter when it ran "dry".

This months Cycle World has a pretty favorable article about the new Norge. Maybe they will actually send one to the u.s. someday! lol

Doesnt the Tenni have the single plate clutch like the Scura & Rm?

I believe there was a picture of a custom rm paint job in the photo's section at one time. I dont know if its still there or not. Fwiw there is a very good way to do that color & somebody here knows how. I have seen it.

You should let your bike sit overnight before you check the valves. Metal expands when it gets hot & contracts as it cools.

I agree with Slug! I dont think most of those stunt bikes have a very long life before they get wrecked or the transmission/engine gets blown from abuse. I'm really surprised that people will spend so much money on a bike & treat it that way. The wheelies probably dont hurt the bikes much but some of those other stunts cant be good.

Ooohh yes its plenty hot here today! It does run a little better when its cooler out. No surprise there. I think I've got it back to an ideal state of tune...for now lol

Ok I have a bit of a mea culpa here My tb's were a little off! That & the rear tire needed a little air too. I fixed both things & the bike runs much better now It still idles a little slow for my taste but that I can live with. I guess it was just the tb's were a little off & that made the bike cough a little.

I'd really like to get one of those large fairings for my bike. Are they making the large ones for a v11 sport?

I know the v11 probably does this, but I'd like to tune as much of it out as I can.

Ok my bikes tb's are properly adjusted, the valves are to world spec, the plugs are clean & gapped. Thats what is right, & when the engine is cool the bike runs great. When the engine gets warmed up or hot after awhile the bike coughs at low rpm to idle speed. Sometimes it will stall in nuetral at a light when it hot also. It doesnt really do it after 4k rpm at all. I'm not sure if its a tps thing or something else Any advice on where to look & what to adjust?

Yes just try to keep it away from anything too hot

I think Huberts point Ratchet, is that whichever bike you are going to ride you still must stay within your limits. One bike may give a better ride than the other but its almost never the bikes fault when you hit the pavement. I dont think anyone would dispute that a properly setup will perform better. Its like trying to blame the gun in a shooting.

Keep an eye on Ebay. They have a Daytona up for auction there about once every three months or so. If you want an MGS I hope you have deep pockets. There have been a few of those floating around Ebay in Europe & Britain. Plus keep looking here, people occasionally do sell their stuff & post it here first.

How much did the new twin plate clutch cost? Us fellow single platers want to know

When the bike is in gear & you say it wont move, is that with the clutch lever pulled in? I cant move my bike while its in gear unless the clutch is pulled in. Maybe I just need to eat my Wheaties! If it wont move with the clutch pulled in I'd say its either the clutch or the cable/linkage between the clutch lever & the clutch. Its easy to tell if the engine is seized, just pull the alternator cover off & turn the motor from the alternator nut. Either put it in nuetral or better yet put the rear wheel in the air. If the motor wont turn from the alternator nut in nuetral then something is terribly wrong! If you can turn the rear wheel with the bike in gear from the alternator nut then it may be a cable type of problem & not the clutch. I'm not a mechanic