Alex-Corsa

That is .... .....1361 members.I don't think there are so many 'active' members here.

Don't measure how they look from the side but look at them from the back side to notice differences. If there is happening that with other exausts may not be at the same height then perhaps you don't have to worry. Besides when you ride you don't look at the exausts if they are side to side OK , you listen to the sound and you enjoy the performance. Mine are not in the same height , have you noticed it?.Even though my bike hangs on the official guzzi site.

Of cource , see below. Except the fact of the temprature compestation you have to consider also that in the Dyno you don't get the same amount of air to the engine (talking about high rpm) that you get when you are doing 90-130mp/h 1.Therefore a richer mixture than in real life conditions would be OK , in a dyno concludes as too rich and therefore loss of PS, for the same reason a lean mixture would esult on the dyno (always high rpm) in a richer one perhps more close to the 'optimum AFR for power and give more PS than expected. There is A LOT going on with the temprature compestation on the ECU map (at least on mine Guzzi) as it came from the factory. Well of cource I have to explain.There are some temps at the chart that are the points with the different values. Different temps for the Air and for the oil. o lets say Air: -55,-43,-31,-19,-7,5,17....ect.ect. every 12 to 125. C' deg. Oil: The same points as above. To these points the compestation is adjusted in 2 different curves (on my chip mapping) To tell you an example it would be this. Having adjusted a nice map for the ECU I have noticed that riding on warm air temps and with an oil temp 55-80 deg ,was around the AFR I had intended , the colder it was getting the richer it was in my AFR indicator. (Innovate XD-1) so to an air temp of 15 and cold motor or in high speeds I was running way more rich (because of the big compestation value difference on the tempratures of the original (factory map)map. The funny thing is that in my chip collection ALL the 1100i ''custom'', ''upgraded'', ''you name it''chips that were out on the market were having the factory map in the temprature department. Ohh that's have to be a joke, they did so much work almost in vain..!! That chart makes a big difference oh yes , a big difference. Dunno what and how correct or wrong is the temp mapping on the V11's from factory but for sure one must check it out I am completing now the optimisation of the temprature chart. So conclusion is , after having your AFR unit installed and be able to make real life measurments of AFR on the bike , for reaching optimum AFR , then the correction of the temprature compestation of the ECU map has to be also adjusted. So hre perhaps opened another ''can of worms'' for you. but that's the facts I 've noticed so far. Personally I don't do it for the PS , I do it because I am a ''control freak'' on this and also for having a more perfect running engine.

OK to eida kai soy esteila.

Check your PM.Se poion to piges gia service?

I used a ''rain free'' spray from Hein Gericke and it worked, so far. Another trick is to wipe the visor with a peeld off potato (LMAO , yes),in -out , or with the potato peel (wet side),and wipe off any glase after it dries with a soft cloth.It is the cheapest, yet effective anti rain+antifog,(more or less) and doesn't ruin your visor NEVER, use a polishing cream for the visor you will ruin it (more or less) i open a couple of mm or more the visor always and doesnt get any fog.If it is raining too much I won't ride And lattely I avoid riding in the rain as much as possible

You have the MGS1 man , it's a volounteer wheelier. How can we say that in that video is a stage II 1200S ?O.K. it seems to wheelie quite easy, so?

And I have forgot , I use the appropriate LOCTITE for antivibration parts that have to stay in their position temporarily.

All the best for you and the bike , and most important ,get a well rest before you travel. And drive carefully home.

Nice exaust on that Griso http://www.guzzisti.it/saloni_eventi/super...s/g_01griso.jpg anyone knows more about it's engine mods.? looks like it is been fitted an MV Agusta front fairing

Perhaps you should consider this type of QuatD for a Griso. (The description says that was an used in new condition pipe titanium....new price was 499..ect.ect.)

This means , that having an extra liter of oil and external filter (that gets cooled) you won't need the oil cooler no more.? But was it also a middle sump that was made to fit with external oil filter , or this doesn't fit our newer Guzzis with the bigger surfaced(LxW) sumps

As MOTORRAD stated in their rescent 2006 ABS test the new ABS are even better than ever. Now , I have measured my Brembo oro, rotors and they are 4.1 and 4.2 mm from 5mm that is when new , should I start thinking on changing them? These are the rotors I have : http://www.guzzitech.com/Brembo-50SFRotor-Todd_E.html

This is NOT any kind of common problem. Though Guzzi have adressed the new sumps on he new models with exoternal oil filter. I never consider adding any kind of collar to the filter, that perhaps is an even worse method on doing things better . What I DO consider though is the option of adding an after market sump with external oil filter . . Besides (AFAIK) it was Duilio Agostini who invented it so it's got to be something usefull. I just have not figured out if is necesary and how the oil cooler can fit in the aftermarket sump with external oil filt..Perhaps get one with the filter coming out of the back...and further modify... ....I hate mods...but if it is for the beter , then.. Have changed my filter and was tightened good, as it seemed 3/4-1 extra turn after it was starting to be tight in, was like the last time (as seeing the machanic doing it)

And here some more of what is said in Germany about BMW's refering mostly on cars though Brauche (need) Mehr (more) Werkstatt (workshop) Bau (build-repair) Mal (this is an expression , means time, i.e. here can be said as : again) Weiter (beyond , or more)

Thanks for the usefull tip and info.

Nice post. Now, how knows the tourgue to be applied for tightening the oil filter? Or is it just "experienced" hand,tightening situation

Try this one , same with free owners manuals http://www.servicemotoguzzi.com/public/lum...index.asp?l=V11

It's on the Guzzi news site Seems that G. Guareschi took over the Italian SuperTwins championship. Well , is it of any 'worth'? what does it mean fianally.

I use pure alcohol for that, on a wet cloth (with the alcohol) and wippe off with dry cloth.I repeat proscess till is clean. But then again some other cleaner on the market like Aytoglym fast glass, and the S100 can clean that as well

And you can say that again, that's what is all about. Concerning that all which I agree , we can also state that a Griso well set up would be more torguey and powerull than a V11. Nevertheless that can be also a matter of taste. I would like to stay on the motor of the Griso and alike, having driven the Breva I could immediatelly notice the very smooth power delivery , the lack of vibrations and the more perfected gerabox.Generally it has to be a better motor than any previous oil cooled Guzzi has made, time will tell.Though personally I am happy that fianally guzzi has came up with such good motors.

I think the brakes of the V11 are enough for street riding. Further more it depends on the riders abbility to bring the potential of the brakes to the fully effectiveness. Something that 90% of the riders can't do. Testers on he Ride magazine are professionals and just give the best out of it, for sure that conclusion doesn't apply to all riders , for me it just describes the potential of the perticular braking system of the test. Braking is an art and needs practicing, I always practice this approach , which I read from Nick's Ienatsch book . Basic principle is: First squese on the brake and NOT grab , this will bring load to the front tire, and then tire will start to grip on the road, gradually apply more pressure to the lever to have an effective braking(depending the stop you may want), but it needs attention concentration and practice in order to brake correct and NOT having the front wheel locked with disasterous effects. Buy and read this book 'Sport Riding techniques' from Nick there are a lot of secrets in safe and correct riding there. Further more (and thi is not my opinion , but motorcycle magazine test riders one)the best braking on the street can be achieved from ABS systems , and the new ones found on new models surpace any braking from any driver(using non ABS brakes) especially on difficult street conditions , such as wet, or dirty roads, ect.ect.

I have heared that before, but personally I like it , it's front fairing reminishes the Gileras of the fifties ,but shows up a lean and mean mashine that is.!! A wild beauty, with 143PS road leagal. Any more photos ,?

Why is than happening in your thumbs? Did you hve an injury before.? Congrats for your ride Ryan

Thanks , that would be great, I need the eagle of 1996-99 period, like the one I posted here , but it is more detailed I think (the one is in my tank is so.) If the scan is big to post it here, then sent it to me email. a 220-300 dpi is enough