Dan M

It's been fun rereading this thread after all this time. I don't see much reason to drill the pucks. As long as the pucks are not dried up and very hard, they will not have any effect on the splines. Dirt and lack of grease are what damage splines. The pucks should be lubricated with a lube that is designed for rubber to metal contact. My personal favorite is Sil-glyde. It is made for lubricating rubber parts in contact with metal in brake systems so it is waterproof, heat resistant and tends to stay put. High pressure grease preferrably with moly such as TS-60 is best for the splines.

Install them. I have them in mine. The only other engine mods besides fuel tuning is an exhaust crossover (FBF), aftermarket mufflers (MAP) and airbox modifications. The power increase is palpable. It will pull to the rev-limiter in 6th gear. I wanted to send my heads to Mike but never did.

I wore mine (#11) daily up until about 6 months ago. Wore it to work in my auto shop as well as riding. The abuse was never an issue. Then I dropped it on a concrete floor. I picked it up and the winding weight was spinning freely. It still works but will not self wind. I'm looking for a reliable repair too. I've replaced it as my daily wear watch with a Hamilton automatic. Still I'd love to get the MG watch repaired.

I'm still in as well.

Late to the party here. If they're going to be available, I'll commit to a black one. It would be nice to see pics of the various samples.

Another mention. Don't know if any of the info is new... https://ridermagazine.com/2021/09/10/moto-guzzi-announces-a-new-factory-museum-and-v100-mandello/?oly_enc_id=1794C9361167F7V

A friend put a pair on his FJR. It was on my recommendation since I love them on my LeMans. I have the first gen and he got the new style. He complained about a slight wobble. He went back to the installer and they rebalanced but it did not help. They then exchanged them for a pair of the earlier style and the issue was solved.

"What? No, I don't smell anything"

Caswell's Dragon Blood was their latest product at the time, maybe still is. The bright red color helps to see coverage when you apply it. I had no bubbles on either tank.

I had this issue on both my LeMans and more so on an Aprilia Tuono. Draining the Aprilia tank and leaving it open (no filler cap or pump assembly) for a couple of months brought it back to original size. I coated it with Caswell's Dragon Blood sealer and it held it's size from then on. For some reason the expansion on the Lemans tank has not been as severe so I've left it alone.

Fall ride in the Jemez.

You can easily narrow down the problem. It is unlikely both pistons are seized at the same time. Do the simple stuff first. As GuzziMoto suggested, make sure the lever isn't constantly applying a slight amount of pressure to the master. Wiggle the lever up and down, the rod going into the master should have some free play. If that is OK, while trying to push the pistons back into the bore, open the bleeder. If the pistons still won't move (and the bleeder is clear) the issue is in your caliper. If fluid comes out and they suddenly move when you open the bleeder, it would indicate the problem is ahead of the caliper. The next step would be to close the bleeder pump the brake and get the piston back out. While trying to collapse the piston loosen the line at the master. Again, if the piston retracts, you can rule out the hose. At this point you can go after the master cylinder. At the end of all of this, if you didn't swell the dust boots with WD40, get some brake cleaner and wash off all the lube you applied.The boots should be clean and dry. If they are swelled up or torn they should be replaced.

I don't get around these parts much anymore but I just read through this thread and have to say I miss the back and forth between John (ratchethack) and Dave (dlaing). Too bad things regularly got out of hand...

It's behind the bracket on the headstock. The 2002 is easy enough to see. The number before that looks like 8. That's not saying it's not 3. Sorry.. If the last 4 of your vin are higher than 4769 then I'd say it's an 8.

If you want to try and determine a cutoff date / vin# for the change, mine is an '02 - build date 07/01 - last 4 of the VIN 4769; still has flare style. If others respond with fitting style, date & vin, it can probably be narrowed down. Of course it is MG so it may have depended on which box of lines Guido reached into that day...

Maybe they did a running change in '02. Mine has the shoulder.

My '02 has the same line & fitting as your's Doc.

I have the MPH kit on my 02 LeMans. Nicely made and offer a bit of adjustment. The Williams set up you pictured looks a bit cleaner though. Have not seen them available anywhere.

I recently put the Angel GTs on my 02. Good grip wet & dry. The '02 comes with a 180. My last 2 rears have been 170s. (wider wheel than the '00) Turns in quicker with the 170 but is not as stable at speed.

One has to wonder why Moto Guzzi chose to insulate the brass sensor from the head with a plastic holder. Why didn't they screw the sensor directly into the head? For whatever reason they did it as they did and mapped it accordingly. I would agree when starting from scratch and creating a map, a direct connection to measure cylinder head temp would be best. It certainly is in a liquid cooled engine. I still don't think I'd choose a brass sensor designed to be measure liquid temp on an air cooled engine. I've seen bad readings with these sensors screwed directly into automotive cylinder heads that were low on coolant. If the brass is not submerged it is very slow to react. This mod is a very easy way to get improved fueling across the board without making major changes to the OE map. There have been many reports on this forum by those who chose to go with the direct connection of a brass sensor holder or the addition of paste with poor results. I can not recall anyone who has used the air temp sensor approach and has not been pleased with the results.

Just a couple of thoughts on this touchy subject. The replacement sensor from GM if used is the same calibration as the MG unit. That was the primary reason it was chosen. If one uses the MG unit and strips away the brass, the accuracy does not change. So there is no cheating or fooling the computer as suggested. The whole reason the bare sensor or the GM air temp sensor work better is because they react very quickly. If you look in the original thread you will see they were compared side by side. The brass unit would get hot and stay hot minutes longer than the air temp sensor. Adding conductive paste made matters worse. Running in hot stop and go traffic it would not cool down and cause the ECU to miscalculate the fuel ratio. The modified sensor does not make it run richer across the board. It merely adapts to engine temp faster. My fuel economy has actually improved. And, as Docc and others have said, hot weather, low throttle fueling is greatly improved.

Rapid clicking is low voltage at the solenoid. 12.5 should be enough to crank it. Test for a voltage drop from battery positive to starter positive and battery negative to starter ground. Do it while attempting to crank the engine. Rule out a faulty connection before you condemn the battery.

I just did this job. Mine started leaking a few years ago just before leaving on a weekend trip. The paper gasket was pushing out on the right side. I plucked out the piece of broken gasket and injected some silicone sealer in the gap. It lasted until this past summer. The replacement metal gasket should be the fix. Listen to Luhbo. Only use quality tools. Your days of rounding out fasteners will be over.

Ahhh the good old days....