Dan M

+1 Like all the others have said. Good deal. If it is as clean as it looks in the pic and rides OK, go for it. I'd never part with my '02 for $4000.

That's interesting, What are the sales numbers of those makes? Seems likely Guzzi numbers are dismal, as least here.

Great link BFG. Best ride report I've read.

Like that guy on the bicycle, only more so.

Outstanding stuff

Thanks Tom

Can't say I'm familiar with the product. Does have that 19th century sound to it. I can offer the "Mississippi Delta Cathead Biscuit" Pretty sure they don't aid digestion. burp http://www.deltablues.net/biscuit.html I hear Mississippi holds the title for most obese people.

Seems like Moto Guzzi Loaf would be more appropriate

This is it in a nutshell. I believe it can not measure as fast. The sensor is designed to be bathed in moving liquid. Sitting stagnant in air or paste hinders fast response.

What I couldn't understand was your fragmented, poorly constructed run on sentences that make little sense. I'm kind of sorry you even tried too. It was indeed a sorry attempt. If you have a Guzzi sensor with a Guzzi holder you are certainly measuring air temp unless you added something to the mix. If you are addressing me, you will need to show me where I modified output value on any sensor in any thread. The new sensor has the same range as the old. When was I laughing at them? Can you show me? If you didn't get the reason for the thread, I stated why I started it in my last post. Evidently your reading skills match your writing.

First off, I don't even understand what you were trying to convey in the highlighted words. Yes the BMW device is there to trick the computer. Beyond that, there are a couple of errors here. I am not tricking the computer. I am suppling it with a faster to respond sensor mounted the way the factory did. That is all. No resistors. No heat sinks. No altering of the signal. No adding paste. Mounting it the way it was designed. What you are overlooking is this: No matter what the head temp is, if you look at the data, the brass sensor is a about 2 minutes slower to respond. This has been the idea from the beginning. In the last, now closed thread, you said you wanted to see data. Well, I provided it. It was not my intention to restart this debate. I just started this thread because I found it interesting how much fur is ruffled by this subject regardless of brand loyalty or country of origin. Bye now.

I mounted mine as the factory did. The modification assumes a factory style mount. I found earlier creating a direct path was problematic for my bike. Please do the much more accurate test and report your findings. I'm not sure it is relevant as, at least on my bike, there is rarely boiling water or ice water inside the holder, at least not on the same day. BTW, It is an air temp sensor. As the factory mounts it, it is sensing air so I chose air to test with.

I like Roy's approach of finding what works well and seeing where you are after the optimum setting if found. Keeps it clean and doesn't cloud your judgment by knowing the numbers during the ride. Like most adjustments, all bikes are a bit different but it would be interesting if there is a good number for most bikes that alters from current standards. Nice going Roy.

None while resting Greg, just like inside the holder.

That is what the BMW thread was about. Look to it for your answers. What we did before was replace the brass coolant temp sensor with a plastic air temp sensor since we are reading the air temp inside the factory sensor holder. Remember? No fooling, just faster more accurate readings using the factory designed sensor holder. Don't want to start another rehashing of the issue but in the old thread GM asked for data to prove the theory. I did some side by side testing a few months ago but other than PMing it to the interested I figured no sense in posting. Since you are prodding, this is what I came up with: This was done on a bench, sensor probes and thermometer grouped together, not touching each other, suspended in air. Heat was by a blow drier as a heat gun was way too hot for this use. Start temp 76F - OE sensor 2.70Kohm / GM sensor 2.61Kohm Apply heat 15 seconds - OE 1.99Kohm / GM .54 Kohm - instant reaction on the GM Remove heat and observe, 30 second mark OE still dropping to 1.60Kohm / GM rising to .89 Kohm Reapply heat this time for 30 seconds. (Thermometer leveled off at 182F) - OE .80 / GM .45 Heat removed, 15 seconds later OE still dropping to .78 / GM recovering to .81 15 more seconds of cooling, OE has stabilized and recovered to .80 / GM up to .87 15 more - OE .87 / GM 1.00 15 more - OE .95 / GM 1.13 15 more - OE .95 / GM 1.17 15 more - OE 1.00 / GM 1.21 15 more - OE 1.01 / GM 1.27 Wait one minute - OE 1.14 / GM 1.45 another minute - OE 1.26 / GM 1.60 another minute - OE 1.35 / GM 1.77 Summary: As thought, the air temp sensor reacts instantly to applied heat and levels out as soon as heat is removed. The OE sensor continues to lose ohms for 15 - 30 seconds after heat is removed before starting to climb. The air temp sensor also cools more quickly than the brass unit but not as quick as I expected. Air sensor movement is smooth, brass unit moves in chunks. You see, a coolant sensor in air is very slow. Cover your Inquiry?

You know I thought of that but couldn't find a spot for that bulky thermostat. Another HVAC guy? Can't swing a dead cat 'round here without hitting one.

Makes me proud

Is cool. Certainly a place to waste time.

I just rowed through 37 pages of theory, argument, back stabbing, side taking, blovating, name calling, profession bashing, he saids, she saids, moderating, heritage questioning and maybe even a member banning. The subject? Are you ready? A device that alters air temperature signal to the ECM (this time for BMWs) . http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-...uct-review.html thankfully I'm not a member there... oh the temptation... I'm just sayn'

Great stuff BFG.

I recall there being talk of many 03 bikes actually being left over 02 spec bikes. What is the production date? A MG parts guy like Greg could catalog the upper clamps and see if there was a change.

AFAIK the forks are the same.

(there was no "I'm with Ben") While the manufacturer will tend to be cautious with break-in procedure, the "ride it like you stole it" approach to break-in is pretty stupid. All these "experts" seem to know more than the engineers who designed the motor. We landed on the moon?

Her shoes vs my bikes. Always worked for me.

The CR is the better looking one to me. Super deal at $6K. If you're inclined to keep it, I'd guess it will appreciate in value. One year of production, can't be too many out there. Congrats & good luck.