Dan M

Same set up on my 02, sans lock nut. I find the nylon thumb wheel stiff on the threads so no lock nut necessary. Perhaps they loosen up with age & adjustment?

Right. thanks for the wake up call Emry

I complained about hair-splitting. It seems you can't get past that. Had nothing to do with what RH wrote. I never quoted him. Your comment was about the photo. Go back and read what you wrote. I pointed out that WP's site used the same photo for fork springs no matter what the application is. If you have read and understood what I've written and not confused me with anyone else you'll find I made no reference to progressive or straight rate springs anywhere. Never gave an opinion of what to use street, track or parking lot. This whole tirade and your constant name calling, pointing at others and nitpicking does indeed remind me of other posters past & present. You sir are the one who has been belligerent. It seems to be your way.

I've complained about hair splitting which is of no value. (you were talking about the photo, remember?) I responded to being told to STFU. What is up with that? So far as hurling insults or questioning your character where do you find that? My point is sarcasm, demeaning and self promoting posts are of little value on a tech forum. Just what do you want me to say "oops, my bad, sorry I was mistaken" about? Did I print false information? Did I supply a bad link?

She likes you, she's just moody. Is there a mV scale? Is it possible that it is a 500mV range and once you go past it you are out of range? On your 20V scale you should have two digits either side of the decimal (00.00) Yes? If so you can get close at both ends of the range seeing 00.15 for 150mv closed throttle and say about 04.85V WOT. You'll never see 5V WOT. 5V is reference voltage and the resistance of the TPS brings it down a little.

edit Yes sir, I'll get right on that. Any more orders while I'm at it? If I provided a link to every post where you were hair splitting I'd get accused of blovation. For now I'll just point out that your contribution here is usually demeaning, sarcastic, self promoting or hair splitting. If you just look at the thread that hatched this one, Your posts # 34 & 42 are demeaning, 36 & 45 are sarcastic and 38 is self promoting. Not a lot of technical advice is there?

Frigging hair splitting again. WP is simply using a generic image of fork springs. Click on any bike on that site and it is the same image. Do you really think they should photograph each and every part number? Why? Reminds me of another excitable boy around the net.

Mine is an 02 with the wider 5.5" wheel. The stock tire was a 180/55. On the last tire change I went with the taller, narrower 170/60. The result is lighter steering.

OK, got that cleared up in 24 hours. What's next? Dirt bike? Chopper? 3 wheeler? Jetski?

Right. Let us know what happens.

Then yes, seems a bit high. I think you'll find though that the difference between 150mv and 382mv in terms of degrees is pretty small. As Raz said, if it runs OK, leave it alone.

GB, are you saying you measured 382mv with the throttle plates completely closed (both idle stop screws backed off so the plates are seated in the bores)? Or did you check it as set, key on engine off?

Never heard a Supertrapp on a Guzzi but they are indeed loud on other bikes as JC says. I've thought them a bit raspy sounding on multis.

The threaded rod is stationary. The white knob turns on the rod. At least on a 2002.

Don't think it will make too much difference. More weight is on the cylinder head temp sensor than the air temp sensor when calculating fuel mix.

Yea, I've heard about those German check points where they dismantle your forks and check spring rates before arresting you. Very troubling. I'm on the other side of the pond where companies like Wilbers have them available. Evidently what you are saying is they only make them for export. I'm not doing your research for you as you claim to be able to read. How about contacting Slavomir, he seems to have found them on that side of the pond. Perhaps he has superior reading skills. You know, I'm the kind of guy who'd lend a hand and ship some over if they were not available there. Oh, wait I better STFU. nevermind...

Well, some are saying progressive springs of various rates are not available "over there" (Of course Slavomir got some in the Czech Repbulic, must be some sort of vari rate black market or something) And claim that they are crap. So for those who are asking the question, I'd think links to actual suspension professionals are indeed useful. Posts like the one quoted here are not of much use though.

I thought he tried the solenoid first then changed the whole starter. It is not unheard of to have a bad one out of the box but certainly unlikely. I would think if it were tight the amp draw would be very high and cranking voltage very low.

Look here, Dave L has one posted with a Quat: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

Here you go Ben, could be the perfect solution: http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190770

Thick oil can be an issue but it would have to be pretty cold. What is in the crankcase and what is ambient temp? Your battery is good enough. If it was weak the voltage would drop below 10.2 when cranking for more than a few seconds. Less than .2 & .3 volt drop cranking on a circuit like that is not too bad either so connections are good. I just went out and checked my voltages for a comparison. My numbers were pretty much the same 12.6 KO; 12.1KOEO; 10.2C. The numbers don't add up to a very slow crank. If the battery were weak or the starter was drawing too many amps the voltage would drop more while cranking. Can there be something silly going on like paint between the ground stud and the starter case? Can you check ground on the starter case instead of at the cable? Just throwing stuff out here.

Disconnect the pipes at the head if you haven't. Loosening the head pipes from the crossover individually is easier than trying to remove the crossover with the pipes tight. Try to rock it up & down and side to side where they connect. That will help spread the pipe and loosen where it slips over. Always use rubber when connecting any exhaust part to frame. I don't know what the Stucchi mount looks like. I had to shorten the original to mount the FBF crossover on mine.

Good one. From VBR2 last year? That was the first trails competition I saw live. Yes, they can ride alright.

Motor out in 2 & 1/2 hours, not to shabby.

Personally, I wouldn't go for a open top air box or pods. (too much intake noise / vibration but that is just me) A couple of circular holes in the cover will provide plenty of additional airflow. Oh yea, I'm a paper filter guy too. Not too crazy about the K&Ns and others of their ilk. Again, Just my opinion, not trying to restart that debate. If your bike is like mine the forks are way under sprung. It is like they had a 140lb rider in mind. (I'm slightly porkier than that) The proper spring rate for your weight and some good cartridge fluid transforms it before you even start to dial in damping. On the rear, the stock shock just plain sucks IMO. An Ohlins is rather expensive and there are other options, again having it sprung for your weight is key. I chose a Wilbers and love it. It is a different bike once set up properly.