Dan M

Too much air and it will not "self bleed" - The air will be at the top of the circuit though so usually if you compress the caliper pistons it will shove the air into the reservoir. Another approach is to apply light pressure to the brake lever to create positive pressure in the fitting for the moment you have it loose. Fluid will come out but air will not go in. (use rags or paper towels as others suggested and work fast). If you need both hands to loosen the bolt and position the banjo, put a couple of rubber bands around the grip / lever to apply slight pressure while you do your thing. Always thought they were called banjo because they looked like a banjo.

Few things are better than passing Harleys and have them fade in your mirrors in the twisties. It must have been heavily modified to hang with you on any stretch of road. Maybe your front derailleur won't hit the big cog.

Send Rich Maund your seat. Ask him to shave it down and narrow it toward the front. A half inch or so height and an inch width will make a big difference. He is offering a deal right now, check the last post here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10430

Is this the right place for an argument?

Don't worry about the .2 watt. Not sure about the lc bulb. If it is a push in (no metal base) the part number is 194. Metal base, bayonet style should be an E19.

Yup, always true here.

Protest or party?

What is the ambient temperature? Does it happen even before the engine is warmed up?

Pinpoint the hissing and you'll find the problem. Sounds like a vacuum leak. As Hubert suggested maybe the rubber manifolds are loose or cracked.

+1 - Looks like racing to me. I wouldn't say he "plowed into him"

Not to hijack this debate. What / when did you race in AHRMA? Do you know Bob Goodpastor?

Ok, OK, from one grey beard to another, the stocker is pretty straight. When I installed MPH's risers, the kit came with a new hose to compensate for the extra inch and a half. I'm thinking if you can get a little more out of the original it will be pretty tight. And please, don't use the H word around here. I find it offensive.

I have the CRG lane splitters on my Tuono. The quality is great but the image in the convex lens is too small for my aging eyes.

Didn't think it was not the regulator to begin with. If you need to prove it apply vacuum (15"Hg or more) to the regulator port when running. Pressure should drop by 5-10 psi. If it does there is not another restriction causing high pressure and your gauge is probably not accurate. Start looking elsewhere. Make sure you are checking for richness after several minutes of running on a warmed up motor. They run rich even on a hot start for the first 3000 revolutions. Have you read your plugs after a reasonable stretch at steady throttle above 3000 RPM? (shut motor off instantly without idling then read the plugs)If they are indeed sooty open the vacuum nipples at the manifold right after shutting off and see if there is raw fuel dripping indicating a sticking injector. Check ohm values of the temp sensor in the head. Back probe temp sensor circuit at the computer to check integrity of wiring. (resistance = cold = rich) Also check the temp sensor in the air box. What is TPS voltage at idle?

Agreed. Especially the naked one. Probably pretty torquey at 1400cc too. It may have a hell of a wobble at speed with that offset rear hub. Is it just me or is the rear hub not centered on the wheel?

As Jason said check your tires too. A flat centered rear tire can cause a, a w, a wo, a wob, a wobble. There, I said it.

Nice looking Goose Jason.

This is spot on and good advice. The resistance from a poor connection is the beginning of the end for many relays. Tweaking the socket and a spritz of contact cleaner / oxidation remover (Wurth Contact OL is what I keep on the shelf) makes for a nice connection. Another trick if you can't get to the female socket terminals is to tweak the relay itself. A slight twist (5-10 degrees) on each spade helps put pressure against the terminals once plugged in.

This is like de'ja'vu all over again. (post 14)

Rotating is not a problem so long as it doesn't leak. And no, nothing hooked up to the nipple.

Perhaps a roper slopper will help. You are right, no phew wipe the brow icon. Just use the "all is well again in guzzidom" one:

What Tom said. Sounds like the signature V11 rear brake groan.

Check for oil in your air box. If not I'd guess valve guide seals. Oil runs down the guides after shut down. FWIU the factory guides are machined from a solid block of Parmesan and don't last long.

I don't think I've ever seen a regulator that was much out of range on pressure. When they fail they usually leak out of the vacuum port. Since the V11 does not use the vacuum port and the diaphragm does not move, it is unlikely to have it fail. Is it rich at idle or all the time? At idle you can adjust. You may have a problem with your temp sensor or leaky injector if it is indeed too rich at other times. A search on either topic will net you several hours of lively reading

Incredible story Gino. What a great experience.