Dan M

Who expected it? How do you translate "never a wobble" into expecting a wobble? Looks like this thread is wobbling hopelessly out of control. I guess as long as no deaths can be attributed to the dangerous thread it won't be closed.

Right. It is a stop for the selector. Some years were not adjustable, just a post there.

The Tuono is indeed very quick steering however there is a long sweeping turn that I take regularly on the V11 between 95 & 100mph. It feels like it is on the proverbial rails. Over the same stretch of road at speed on the Tuono I have to constantly correct my line. Never a wobble on either but the quick steering of the T makes it feel less planted.

EFI entered the transportation world for pollution reasons. Manufacturers were forced to develop it to meet ever tightening emission standards. The benefit now is it works so much better when the technology is sorted and it is getting better and better all the time. They can't make it tunable for road use though. Government wants it "tamper proof" - Remember caps on the adjusting screws of carburetors? Now they are doing it electronically.

fabulous image

I think your first idea of a ground is probably a good one Zdog. Power or ground, seems weird that the speedo light is not affected. I agree with Murray that other stuff should be out at the same time if a relay is at fault. Get a volt meter and check for a voltage drop on both the power side and the ground side of the tach light circuit when the problem is occurring to narrow it down.

Sorry for your loss Miki. Like you said, anything could happen to anyone at anytime. I respect your decision to take a break from riding. You must do what is right for you. Hopefully at some point in the future you'll catch the riding bug again and return to our sport. Good luck to you.

I've had my RT since '04. Your comment on boring is pretty much right on. The bike functions very well. Handles better than a big bike should, has good weather protection and is quite comfortable. Hard to feel passionate about it like the MG though. In February I rented an '07 R1200GS and put 1200 miles on it doing Baja. Excellent handling on the road and off for such a big bike. Much livelier motor than the earlier 1150. If & when I change my RT I'll probably go to a GS. Still somewhat uninspired but just plain works very well.

You are exactly right about the lane operators. Seems it is their only power on the planet so they use it. Good timing getting the supervisor who understands not everything has to be in the box. Revving it will speed things up but also build quite a bit more heat. Now go & enjoy your new steed.

Evidently you don't understand much. Nobody ever said it can't work. If you comprehend what you read you'll see that the point that has been made (a number of times) is if you have lean issues at part throttle in hot weather, the extra mass exacerbates the problem and the retro fit helps that issue. Some people, regardless of if they understand a principal can not stop themselves from stirring the shit. You are well on your way to getting another thread closed if that is your goal. Pitiful life that is.

I still love my watch and wear it regularly. Thanks for that. Stop back from time to time. Most of us are gluttons for punishment so we will be here for awhile longer Good luck to you.

Yep, razor sharp bunch there all right.

There shouldn't be enough fuel at the throttle plate pivot to leak regardless of seal condition. Make sure it is not coming from where the throttle body connects to the rubber manifold. Sometimes the rubber cracks and sometimes the clamp is merely loose. Occasionally these injectors dribble excessive fuel if they are dirty and don't close properly. A similar topic was over-discussed here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14826 The injector is on the back side of the throttle body. It is the part with the electrical plug attached to it. What is the mileage / condition of your bike? Had it been sitting? What fuel do you use? Don't worry about your pipe. They are stainless steel and clean up nicely with an abrasive pad like Scotchbrite.

I PM'd you before I saw Ratchet's post. Rather than start the whole crap storm over, reply off thread if you have any interest.

Well, since we're talking emissions, CO will stay higher longer with the slow reacting OE sensor set up. Once fully warmed up though, the maintained higher and slow to respond temp reading and associated leanness will cause hydrocarbons (the other EPA measured gas) to soar. Just another reason that a fast accurate way to read head temp is important.

Yes, Gordon is a good guy and ships quickly. Parts service from both MPH and Moto is also reliable.

I recently found out about the 3 minute fuel dump. It was discussed here on another thread. Actually it is the first 3000 revolutions after start up cold or hot. (about 3 minutes @ idle ) Since they only test at idle you can lean it out via the air bleeds on the T-Bodys. 5.50% CO is a pretty generous standard. I've set mine to between 2&3% maintaining good HCs and a nice steady idle.

Sounds like a great ride. Very few bikes better on high speed sweepers than a V11.

Good catch by jrt. I didn't even consider the dealer may have overfilled it and it is dumping into the breather. Makes perfect sense. Good place to look. And yes it will get worse once the air box has a bit in it. Yes there is a lot of controversy about the high tech operation of reading the oil level, but if you sit on the bike to hold it fairly level and wipe the stick and screw it in then pull it and check it you will see if you are in the ball park. If it is over the full line by much you will burp some out when riding.

I'm sure they vary some even from the same manufacturer. The issue is how tightly it is wound when working. Laying them side by side, I noticed the arm on the cannon spring had a slightly different angle. The more the spring has to wind up when shifting, the tighter it is on the pawl. I don't remember which direction, upshift or downshift winds it tighter (I'm thinking downshift if visualizing properly ) but it is stressed more in one direction. I found that if you bend the arm of the spring slightly to reduce the tension, it does not grab the pawl any longer during normal operation. All the spring does is locate the shift hooks against the mechanism. Without it the lever just falls away, hence the no shift condition with a broken spring. Carefully bend it enough so there is only light pressure on the arm / hook and it will be under much less stress which should increase life substantially.

Yes, that clutch uses brake fluid. I doubt that is your leak. The total capacity can't leave puddles that size more than about once. You would have other symptoms too like no clutch disengagement. It is likely motor oil. Petroleum gear lube has a stronger odor than motor oil. Synthetic is usually red. Your first approach of clean and look is best.

It is the other way around. The Road Attack are supposed to be longer wearing than the Sport Attack. I'm running Road Attacks on my RT. The performance is good but they are showing wear earlier than expected. The rear is starting to flatten in the center after about 3000 miles. The Diablo Stradas were terrific on the V11, absolutely no regrets. When I changed wheels I went to the sportier Diablos. Adhesion is great but I have not put enough miles on them to gauge wear.

Right, I'm not a fan of any Slick 50 product. Didn't know it was still on the market. Good old white lithium grease works well for linkage.

Now it is getting complicated. The adjuster under the acorn should be fine if: A) it shifted OK before and, you have not screwed around with it. Unless it is loose it can't "go out of adjustment" I wouldn't start messing with adjustments if all was working properly before. Clean, slick lube works wonders inside and tight well lubed linkage does the job outside. Cover that first. If it is not fixed, then start with other stuff. You don't want to create a problem.

Actually, getting roasted for giving constructive advice pisses me off. There is nothing about my suggestion that deserves a "fucking relax" from Greg or is "rabble" I tend to do jobs thoroughly. If he doesn't agree he should say so. The "fucking relax" is uncalled for.