Dan M

Yea, what was I thinking? Overdue for fluid change, notchy shifting, I'm sure it is clean as a whistle in there. Guzzi boxes never have metal paste in the bottom do they Greg. Come to think of it, I've never seen or heard of a dirty shifter pivot causing shifting issues either. Must have been a dream. By all means don't take the extra 15 minutes needed to get the cover off. Have a drink instead, then you can make belligerent replies to posts.

Beautiful Rosso. The first V11 I rode was a Rosso and I was hooked. I quick 3 or 4 mile blast and I had to have one of my own.

Checking the wiring diagram (that is a V11 diagram) it looks to be a mechanical switch. Of course it is an eyetalyun diagram so some interpretation is needed. It shows three mechanical switches for warning lights, one for oil pressure, one for neutral and one for oil level. Since there is no oil level warning lamp I'll assume they meant fuel level. Anyway, the thing probably got stuck after it dried out. You can remove it and clean it with carb spray or it probably will loosen up on it's own. (another job for Seafoam!) From the diagram it closes to ground and complete the circuit, illuminating the light. You may want to lift the tank and make sure the wire is not pinched grounding the circuit. One more thing, an LED takes very little current to illuminate. I wonder if enough ground it getting to it through the sensor to illuminate it. You can verify by checking the circuit with a test light and see if it lights that. Edit: When are you going to post pics of the new paint?

If I may add, take the time to remove the transmission side cover and clean out the accumulated metal paste from the bottom and the gear selector mechanism. Clean and lube your shifter pivot too.

Changing the ECU is not always the best choice. I'm not knocking the product but the added flexibility will hamper most owners / tuners without the proper skills and equipment. The PC's capability to alter injector pulse-width (that's outputs, not inputs, by the way) at a given throttle angle and RPM solves a known problem. As you inferred, many issues are due to lean conditions caused by federally mandated emission standards. If your goal is proper fueling and a PC allows you to make a correction then what is the trouble? Hubert says so many down sides. What are they? Isn't A/F ratio the issue here? I guess what I am not understanding or agreeing with is if you have a way to optimize your fuel mixture, how is it inferior to any other means? The goal is optimum mix isn't it?

Elaborate please.

Who knows how many different units were sourced over the years by M/M. Most TPSs are sealed units but if you have one that is slotted, cleaning is a good thing. Running off of a 5V reference it doesn't take much dirt to cause glitches in the sweep. My PN is PF3C/00 1221BE

Yep, had several over the years but I seem to have moved on to bikes with "character" (don't know if that is good or bad) BTW, good new avatar SH.

Yes, seems many of us are masochists.

Remember, you need good connections to open the injector. Poor, corroded connections will result in an injector that does not open. If you think it is open when it shouldn't be look for the trigger wire to be rubbed through and touching a ground (or do you say earth in BC? ) source somewhere.

Try to isolate the trouble. You are on the right track. Now, is it flooding or merely not lighting the fuel. The injectors are powered up when the key is on and the ECU pulses ground to them. It is possible that there are individual drivers and I'd have to see a diagram but I'm thinking there is only one driver in the ecu for both injectors and they gang fire. If a driver fails it usually goes open and you get no fuel. A short to ground would most likely be permanent and the inj would just pour constantly. There is a possibility of the signal (ground) wire for that injector shorting to ground at times causing one cylinder to flood but it seems unlikely. As Ratchet noted, it is unlikely that the PC is causing only one side to act up. By the same token I believe it is unlikely for the ECU to do it, especially intermittently. Possible on both counts but unlikely. Take the PC out of the picture just to see. In an earlier thread it was discussed that the ecu dumps rich for the first 3000 revolutions after start up hot or cold. (Just under 3 minutes at idle.) This could present more of a problem on a hot engine as the extra fuel is not necessary and may cause it to flood if the mix was too rich to begin with. A couple of cheap simple tools may help you to narrow it down. A tool truck or well stocked auto parts store should have an injector test lamp AKA noid light. This plugs in place of the injector and you can see the pulses. Then you can compare side to side. Not as good as a lab scope but you get the idea. Also a spark tester that plugs in-line between the spark plug and wire will indicate if you are losing spark from the coil. Is your problem primarily at idle? Can it be as simple as idle mix is way rich and fouls plugs at idle? Can there be a large vacuum leak on that cylinder causing the misfire and resulting unburned fuel to pass at idle? - just throwing stuff out there to be considered.

Here's another thought. Find an independent auto shop that has a MotorVac machine. Talk to the owner and see if he'll run it on your bike. The system has two modes one with the motor off and one with the motor running. A typical job gets both but the fact that your bike is air cooled, idling it for 30 minutes is out of the question without some major fans, so he should only run it in the static mode. Anyway, the system will flush solvent through the lines and injectors under pressure for as long as the guy wants to set the timer for. 30 minutes is a normal cycle. The thing works really well. I have been using this system for more than 10 years and currently have two of these machines in my shop. The only trick for you is to find someone willing to hook it up to your bike. http://www.motorvac.com/products/CarbonCleanMCS245.html just another worth

Back in post 9 you thought the Seafoam was helping. Why not give it another tank full with a strong mix (whole can for a full tank) and see if it clears up completely? These companies that "recondition" injectors do nothing more than check that they have electircal integrity, make sure the return spring is not faulty and clean them. No new parts. If your spring was broken it would leak constantly. What you are describing is a classic sticky injector that nearly always is caused by deposits on the shaft or pintle. The fact that these reconditioners sell literally thousands of these cleaned units and stand behind them should tell you something about deposits being the culprit. How many miles are on your bike?

Multiple udder pinching. Talk about the unexpected. Is that a Spanish cow? And Pete, fancy a swollen udder eh? eh? Say no more, say no more. Is your cow a goer? eh? eh?

The fuel comes from the valve on the left side of the bike and goes to the pump. Then to the injectors and then to the regulator and back into the tank. It is constantly flowing in a loop with the portion between the pump and regulator under pressure for the injectors to use. Way more fuel loops back to the tank than goes through the injectors. Depending on how long you ran the bike you may have just pushed the cleaner back into the tank. If it were straight cleaner in the lines and injectors, I doubt the bike would start or run. I have no idea the effect the chosen chemical has on the inside of yout tank, if any.

Guido was probably carbed up from pasta the night before and a bit buzzed from a doppio espresso that morning before he assembled your fork. Or maybe he was just pissed at Sylvia.

The jam nut (blue) is just tight. They both come apart the same. Back off your dampng adjusting screw when going back together.

Maybe but cleaning the soot from the garage after the fire may be more trouble than the clean injector is worth The Seafoam can says "DANGER: FLAMMABLE" :!:

Taking them out and cycling them is even better if he is so inclined. It that is the case I'd use a stronger solvent like carburetor cleaner. Seafoam and Techron work best with warm (operating temp) parts. If you are going to energize them manually, pulse the power to them, don't just apply 12V & ground and pin them open. Another option is to remove the fuel lines at the injectors and fill the injectors with carb spray and let it soak overnight. Put the lines back on and run the motor. It will be a little difficult to start at first until the solvent is replaced by gas but it is an effective way without having to remove the injectors.

Have you looked at the maps here? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020

How many miles or tanks of gas with the Seafoam? The injector is a simple solenoid. If it is electrically good (not shorted or open both cold and hot), the only thing to make it stick is varnish. Running enough solvent through it will undoubtedly get it loosened up and working again. It sounds like you are having some success cleaning it, keep at it a little longer before spending on another. As others have echoed my comments in post #4, tapping helps but usually that will free one stuck closed. It sounds like your main issue is debris holding it open.

+1 on the brown rope plugs. Better than a patch as the hole is sealed all the way through so there is no ply degradation from water rusting the belt. The only time they won't work is if the injury is too big. I prefer CO2 just for size limitations. I carry a kit in each bike with 3 cartridges. Two will inflate a tire enough to limp to a gas station. Edit: On the earlier issue of not knowing when to change a tire without center grooves, it is time for the tire pictured

Good catch Bruce and interesting info. I can verify they (at least mine) dump rich on start up. I always thought it was odd and didn't know it was programmed into it for every start. First time on a gas analyzer I thought I had a drippy injector that would load it up after a short shut down. Perhaps on Skip's bike there is simply too much air bleed at idle or, as suggested before, a vacuum leak. Skip, have you tried to add fuel to that cylinder to see if it clears up?

Yet I must add that dead pop stars like tight oil filters don't move so the clamp is unnecessary.

I'm hoping she is your first mate.