Dan M

Don't know about that Pete. I've got more than a few BMW miles under my belt. My RT steers quicker than my LeMans did when it was stock. I just did 1200 miles on a 07 R1200GS and thought that was pretty easy handling too, tall but once rolling very easy to pitch from side to side. What we are comparing the Guzzis to when calling it heavy is other modern sport bikes. In that respect they are porkers. Yea Gene, that's my Italian girl. (the curvy one ) I bought the Marvics from Yoyodyne. I'd have to look but I think I paid about $2100 for the pair. I believe the price has gone up a few hundred since then.

time permitted...

I thought I'd add something to the always volatile temperature subject. A few seemed interested in what Ratchet was (is) doing on the subject so I thought I'd show my approach to the same end. I know that several don't agree with this method, this post is to give those who are interested an easy alternative. I discussed using an air temp sensor with RH both on and off the last, now closed thread. From my experience I believe this is the best way to do it on the pre-feedback FI Guzzi motor. I finally took the time to lift my tank and do something with mine. The OE sensor comes out easily on my bike but the plastic holder feels pretty tight. I put a wrench on it but felt like if I pushed any harder it would crumble. My solution was to get the same GM spec air temp sensor I found for RH's project. I cut it down to a diameter that would allow me to cut some 12MM /1.5 threads matching the original sensor. The result is a tapered, shorter unit that snugly threads into the original plastic holder. I'll splice in the pigtail and be good to go for about $30. The pic shows the air temp sensor before and after altering it, the pigtail and the OE sensor.

Seafoam is an excellent gas additive for this. Try tapping* on the injector while the motor is running. Sometimes this will dislodge the obstruction keeping the pintle from closing. * easy, don't use a sledge hammer

You'll need to reshape the brackets holding the clutch and brake fluid reserviors slightly. Otherwise they will hit the faring support at full lock. No big deal. I'd have to measure but I think 2" center to center is about right. EDIT: it is about 2&1/2" center to center. I had no trouble with the throttle cable. With the risers tilted back a bit you get a nice combination of rise and pull back, still allowing fairing clearance.

You mean we can tell people to @#!#$# off? I've been waiting for this day!

THINGS THAT ARE DIFFICULT TO SAY WHEN DRUNK: 1. Innovative 2. Preliminary 3. Proliferation 4. Cinnamon THINGS THAT ARE VERY DIFFICULT TO SAY WHEN DRUNK: 1. Specificity 2. Anti-constitutionalistically 3. Passive-aggressive disorder 4. Transubstantiate THINGS THAT ARE DOWNRIGHT IMPOSSIBLE TO SAY WHEN DRUNK: 1. No thanks, I'm married. 2. Nope, no more booze for me! 3. Sorry, but you're not really my type. 4. No thanks, I'm not hungry. 5. Good evening, officer. Isn't it lovely out tonight? 6. Oh, I couldn't! No one wants to hear me sing karaoke. 7. I'm not interested in fighting you. 8. Thank you, but I won't make any attempt to dance, I have no coordination. I'd hate to look like a fool. 9. Where is the nearest bathroom? I refuse to pee in this parking lot or on the side of the road. 10. I must be going home now, as I have to work in the morning.

There is a certain percentage of butchers in any line of work. The larger the dealer, the better chance of getting one of these hacks working on your stuff. There are only so many conscientious ones out there and they don't all work in the same place. Sometimes it is the fault of management, over scheduling can result in an under qualified person doing the job. If you do whatever you can yourself, at least there is peace of mind that it was done with care. Something may arise that you are not equipped to do and you'll have to roll the dice on who fixes it. Some face time with the service manager may give some insight into who the good techs are and allow you to see that only they get their hands on your machine. The other plus of doing at least some of your own stuff is if you bring a more complex problem in, the "ace" will likely be assigned the job, likewise, the oil change or other easy maintenance goes to the "kid".

Others here have good advice for you. The stock springs are very soft for an average sized person. Getting your bike sprung properly for your weight as Dave suggests is your first priority. As Greg said, closed / all the way clockwise is full stiff for damping. Backing off (anti-clockwise), decreases damping. Factory settings are at most a starting point. As you add spring pressure to properly suspend the weight, you'll have to add damping to control it, especially rebound damping. Adjusting rear preload requires a spanner to "grab" the adjusting rings. It can be walked around with a brass punch once you back off the lock ring. This manner of adjustment is tedious and usually causes some cosmetic damage to the adjusters. A proper spanner is pretty inexpensive.

I have the MPH risers on my '02. Yes, they require longer hydraulic lines but everything is included in the kit. IMO they look good and put the grips in a comfortable place. One added advantage is they place the grips about 2" further apart overall. There is a noticeable increase in leverage easing steering inputs.

Great read, thanks. I've forwarded it already.

Very true. I have them on my '02 as well. IMO the Motobits foot controls are the the perfect paring to the MPH risers. They move your feet down and forward about the same amount the MPH risers move your hands up and back. Places old guys (like me) in a better, yet still sporting position.

It is a difficult bleed as the line is long and the clutch master does not displace much. You end you just moving the air back and forth in the line. I use a Phoenix Injector to push fluid from the slave bleeder back up to the master. It works great. There are other less expensive syringe type pumps to do the same job. http://www.brakebleeder.com/ Another option is a vacuum bleeder which draws fluid from the master down. http://www.compacc.com/p.cfm/c/1111014/p/544

Agreed, as a noun like you are using it. Although as Ben used it, "dampening fluid" the previous definition fits.

Of course, according to English constables Merriam & Webster, Dampen is OK in this case: dampening One entry found. Main Entry:damp·en Pronunciation:\ˈdam-pən\ Function:verb Inflected Form(s):damp·ened; damp·en·ing \ˈdamp-niŋ, ˈdam-pə-\ Date:1547 transitive verb 1 : to check or diminish the activity or vigor of : deaden 2 : to make damp 3 : damp 1c intransitive verb 1 : to become damp 2 : to become deadened or depressed — damp·en·er \-nər\ noun Just a note from the freedom of word choice coalition.

Haven't seen this type of spam before. Tis spam though.

PIAA Extreme white

I'm thinking you'd rivet in a belt buckle.

OK SH, you are 1st on the list if needed.

I did about 1200 miles on a rental GS in February. Pretty nice all day bike, Road handling is terrific and light off road was easy too. Pretty capable all around bike. Don't see the need to spend the extra for the GSA. I was actually thinking of getting rid of my RT for a new(er) GS last year but that pesky Tuono got in the way.

I'm quite surprised the English police have not drawn their weapons on you over the dampening / damping issue. I was nearly hung a couple of years ago over it. Barely escaped with my life.

Oh, look out now Ben. You have committed a sin. The thread is about to turn into an English lesson.

I'd recommend filling the tires with something with even larger molecules than Nitrogen to quell possible leaks from drill bits. Perhaps inject left over silicone from the cush drive job.

I'm with Raz. That mix works well in my tires, is available everywhere and it's free.

It would be more of a fair comparison if they used the "Diablo Strada" as that is Pirelli's S/T tire and will yield more mileage than the regular Diablo. I put about 5000 miles on the Stradas and they still looked terrific. My RT will be needing tires before the season is over and I'm likely going back to the Z6 on that bike. I switched to Conti Road Attacks for the last set. Good tire wet & dry but does not seem to have the same grip as the Metz.