Dan M

It seems like I remember reading the early (short frame) sports had worse handlebar vibration than the later models. Maybe some heavier bar end weights will help.

When my riding buddy was battling cancer a few years ago I bought him the set of both LWD and LWA. It is a great series to watch when you can't ride. Since then I watched an early episode of LWD with my wife. She got hooked too. I ended up buying the series for myself as well.

Cool idea Jaap & nicely done. An Italian beer label like Peroni would be fitting although you already put the time in on the Heineken. I'd be in for one.

Chuck, Good one hooking up a brother.

Moto International used to sell a kit by Motobits. Includes shifter and brake pedal. Moves the pegs down and forward. Good foot position and nicely made. Not sure if they are still available.

If you are still looking for cylinder head guards, Rossopuro still stocks a few V11 models. http://www.rossopuroitalia.it/index.asp?Prd_PrdType_ID=1&Bike_ID=1

Nice! Much difference in performance?

That's not the way how this system, this spring works. Hubert You are right, looking again at current set up, the spring probably does not extend very much during the shift action. It is there just to keep pressure on the shift pawl so it doesn't fall away. The heavy spring will cause extra drag when returning to center after shifting though.

Nicely done JB. I like the simplicity of the fix. Looks like a permanent one. The spring appears to be a bit heavy. A lighter spring would likely ease shift effort.

I found that the way the spring is shaped, it winds tightly around the shaft during shift action. Once it is wound tight, the stress is at one spot near the end of the bend, where it typically breaks. If you bend the new spring slightly to relieve some of the tension, it will not wind as tightly against the shaft. The spring does not need to have a lot of tension against the arm. It is just there to keep the arm in place against the shift mechanism.

I've had AXIS (iron) on my LeMans for a number of years now. They do rust if it rains but clean up quickly after a few stops. With the stock pads, initial bite is not as strong but once hot, feel & modulation under heavy braking is excellent. I'd recommend.

I have a Tuono and a LeMans. If performance is the yardstick then the Aprilia gets the nod. Faster, lighter and handles better. If comfort and all around feel are what you want then it's the Guzzi. You can compare the two to Italian women. The Ape being a slim athlete and the Goose more mature and curvy. Either can be stubborn with a bad temper though....

I think important. AF1 has been drying out affected Aprilia tanks and exchanging them with customers. They say a few weeks open and empty and the tanks return to their original size. Sounds like a good winter project.

All external linkage look ok. Thanks docc If all external linkage is moving and it feels like nothing internally is engaging it is likely a broken pawl spring. Although I didn't know the 04 model was still prone to this. A pretty easy fix once the starter and transmission cover are removed if you are one to try it yourself. Much has been written about this failure here. Do a search.

I would think it unlikely a major manufacturer like Mobil1 would reformulate without label changes for anybody. If it doesn't say something like "this oil specially blended for Wallmart" it is the same stuff. Too much liability. Usually if a major manufacturer packages oil for a private brand it is the same spec with the private brand label. Valvoline does this directly for independent auto shops and dealers. They have a parallel bulk oil line called Ultramax. Comes out of the same tank as the Valvoline branded oil but is less expensive because there is no company advertising or promotion involved.

I keep the CarQuest 85348 (WIX made - 51348 equivalent) on hand - it measures 3.40" My bike currently has a UFI installed and is due for a change. If no one gives the spec, I'll measure it and post when I change oil. I have to think 1/4" is not an issue.

I have Diablos on my V11 now and they have been great. Before that I had Diablo Stradas and liked them as well. Early this year I installed Angels on my Tuono. They are also very good tires, great feel and terrific wet traction. Perfect for all around use. I would not hesitate to put Angels on the V11 for the next set. The only negative thing I've read about Pilot 3s is there is a spongy feel on initial turn in. Maybe it is due to all the sipes on the front tire. Reportedly it gets better with wear but maybe the rider is just getting used to it. Go for the Angles.

I believe there are a few factors. Different metro areas have different fuel blends and many change blends seasonally. Like today, ten years ago gas pumps were tagged "may contain up to 10% ethanol". In reality, before 2006 blends in most places had less than 10% A lower percentage had little effect on composites. Since 2006 the oil industry has been leaned on to get the amount of ethanol up to a full 10%. The warning stickers still read the same but the actual percentage is higher. At that level, we are seeing more problems. On a similar note, E15 is becoming a reality. The pumps will be tagged as such and motorists will be warned not to us it in pre 2007 vehicles but EPA is granting partial waviers for use in 2001 and newer. In the partial waiver it lists all motorcycles as "should not use". EPA on E15: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/additive/e15/#use

The effects of ethanol are not just speculation. Industry professionals agree it attacks plastics and fiberglass. It is pretty well documented by ASE. Manufacturers that use composite fuel tanks that have been deforming have blamed ethanol content. The boat industry is also having issues. Evenrude has a pretty good explanation here: http://www.evinrude-parts.com/boat_ethanol_danger_precaution.html The engines can run just fine on 10% ethanol. The problem with the stuff is it's long term effect on composites and once composits start to degrade what it does to the rest of the fuel system. More actual Ethanol info here: http://www.worldofmolecules.com/fuels/ethanol.htm And here by Toyota showing permeation of E10 on various plastics: http://www.arb.ca.gov/fuels/gasoline/carfg3/toyota_prstn.pdf

I did an interchange. Here's a couple more: A/C Delco PF53 Car Quest 85348(premium) / R85348(economy)- both made by WIX HIC CF3614 Very common filter.

Just an FYI. I've had Mike's pistons in my bike for several years now. My bike never pings. There is a noticeable power increase in the 5000-8000 RPM range. They are drop in. If you hone, just a quick, light ball hone as a clean up. You don't want to go through the coating. Recommended mod.

Finally a good use for the "enlarge image" button.

Now I have, but to be honest, I don't get your point. I have a really nice G/F who let's me do the M/C thing as much as I want/need. My point only is that I hate those artificial romantic story lines, that don't belong in those films. They always have to appeal to the other half, hence the romantic angle. It is a great racing movie. I have it and its contemporary, LeMans in my collection. Grand Prix is the better of the two.

The ultimate touring Guzzi? http://www.guzzioverland.co.uk/

If the power line has circuitry to reduce voltage that is likely your draw. I have an older Garmin Streetpilot that is hooked up directly and there is just B+/- right to the unit. No draw when switched off or disconnected. 3mA is pretty small. Would take quite a long time to run down a good battery.