Dan M

I've got 2 Maund jobs, 'nuff said

Do not use stainless for anything under stress. I replaced mine with 6mm (steel) socket head as you mentioned and there is no clearance issue. I do like Paul's solution though.

Shit, this is bad news. I always liked his humor. It is his choice to make though. Sounds like he in no longer enjoying life. I wish him the best.

A few thoughts. Yes, the ECM is different on bikes with an O2. O2 sensors are for fine tuning the mixture. The O2 will provide no information rich or lean when "in the breeze" so to speak. On most systems, if it is not switching (which it will not if it is not in the exhaust stream) the computer should recognize it is malfunctioning and will stay out of closed loop. It will simply default to a predetermined mixture from the other inputs, and set O2 voltage in the middle (450mv) Yes, as emry stated fuel control only occurs at idle and part throttle and at steady speed. There is no fuel control when the throttle is opened wide or engine is accelerating. As Gene said it is commonplace for exhaust shops to weld in a bunghole for an O2. I'd keep it in the mix. The main thing you are likely to notice is a change in fuel economy.

Nicely kept bike. Those knee grips have a familiar profile. What are they from? When I bought my bike the PO had neglected the head pipes and one side had some surface rust. I've gotten into the habit of cleaning them up with scotchbrite pads over the winter and letting them darken over the riding season.

Lucky stiff.... ...er, so to speak.

I'm with you on the Woodford Reserve. One of the better small batch bourbons in it's range. There are quite a few good US breweries. They are just small and lesser known. Most don't export either. One of my favorite midwest brews is Bell's Kalamazoo Stout.

I think it is in keeping with tasteful Guzzi styling. I'm more of a "remove stuff" kinda guy but that emblem looks good, and not at all hood ornament like. Are those head pipes coated? They look black in the pic. How about a shot of the whole bike.

Don't know if this quickie was posted before. First time I've seen a dyno run quite like this.

You know I've tried to acquire a taste in the past but it never took. Then on my last trip to Mexico after a dinner at a nice restaurant the waiter brought a tray of after dinner drinks featuring a Cognac, Sambuca and a fancy tequila that I did not recognize. Well, with a "while in Mexico" attitude (and no nice bourbon in sight) I went for the tequila and it was exceptional. Can't remember the name for the life of me. (seems to happen on nights like that one) I could use some tips on the finer tequilas, I have a bottle of Patron Anejo in my cabinet and it doesn't seem to hold a candle to what I sampled in MX. My perception could have been skewed though. (hic) Recommendations?

Good job! And I can't tell you how relieved I am that you pinpointed it before somebody mentioned the.....dare I say it....temp sensor.

Sacrilege for a guy from Kentucky but I understand. I wasn't too far from that mix in '74.

Ahh, more theorizing. I'm wondering how it would work on a pre-feedback bike. So few inputs as it is.

In response to a non technical question on the tech board after the subject of bourbon came up, I thought I'd start something new. My absolute favorite is sometimes hard to find, that's Rockhill Farms. I also regularly enjoy Eagle Rare. When selection is limited my choice is usually Maker's Mark or Woodhill Reserve. You?

Greg, I'm starting a new thread called hooch in 24/7

Once again, I'm sorry for the poor choice of words. It is very possible I had a bourbon in front of me while typing as I usually come here in my leisure time. I should have known each word would be dissected. And I also should have known it would be brought up time after time. If you look back you'll see that this sticking point has been covered already but I'll reiterate: Please realize that my intention was range of accuracy when I stated sensitive, as we've agreed, mid range is the area of most accuracy, mid range is where the curve is on the graph. Curve on the graph is around 90-110. I guess you just want to beat this to death. As this topic has devolved into a pissing match I will now most certainly shut up. I see no further point in participating. I have not seen any more useful information here lately nor do I have any more to offer. Ask G2G about his "bait". He made the claim a couple of pages ago. Could be he's just covering his ass for bad info though.

Good one Greg.

What was incorrect? If the thermistor doesn't go open until below -40C and doesn't short until beyond 180C, is 90 not mid range? Are you just splitting hairs? You'll have to trust me on this or perhaps get a hold of someone with a scanner hook it up to a vehicle and disconnect a TPS. Check temp with it open and jump the wires and check temp shorted. You'll see that unless the computer defaults to a mid value when it sees a signal out of range, you'll see (in Fahrenheit) at least -40F open and as much as 360F shorted. This is what the computer reports on the scanner. Some manufacturers show different limits so YMMV and all of that.

No, you are again wrong. When individuals of integrity offer information it is hoped that it will be trusted. There is no attempt to mislead, only to share information. Many including myself have called what we offer theories. We've shared our experiences. Some report their own findings footnoted with YMMV. Some offer solid info on related topics with the mention of assumptions and calculations. You, by your own admission put out wrong information in order to bait others. There is quite a difference. Why anyone would ever again take your information at face value knowing this is beyond me. There are people on this forum that have far more knowledge of and experience with Moto Guzzis than myself. (Pete Roper is one to name a name) I generally take their advice and regard the information they post as accurate and trusted. So I believe the question is who to trust, not what. What I read was a inference that 90-110 was not in the middle of the range.

First off, I've read enough forum technical threads to almost automatically lose interest and pass over someone's post when erroneous or unrelated info is posted as fact. Now that you admit to purposely posting it as "bait" There is even more reason to ignore your posts as argumentative. They obviously can not be trusted and offer no constructive or accurate information. Or, this is merely your story now. As I stated recently, many here try to put their heads together to solve problems, let others know how things work and offer possible solutions for known problems. Sometimes we discuss, sometimes we disagree, that is what a forum is for. Arguing for the sake of argument, baiting people and offering known false information has no place in a technical forum. Getting back to the 90-110C range. You are assuming (wrongly) that this is the high end of the thermistors range. It is merely the high end if what the ecu monitors. As stated much earlier, there is little reason to publish numbers for or have any temp compensation way beyond engine overheat. That doesn't mean the thermistor stops changing.

From what I've read and as others have said, thermistors are most accurate in the middle of their range. The middle corresponds to the curve in the provided graphs. (we've gone over this) It has since been uncovered that most manufacturers are not so concerned with absolute accuracy as a 15% variance has been allowed by the likes of Ford. Other's including Toyota show a more vague chart but still show a variation that is quite wide. The interesting thing it if you look at some of these graphs the range of acceptable ohms is wider at cold temps, narrows in the middle, and widens again at the other end of the temp range. It is the way they operate. It seems injector pulse-width compensation from temp inputs is made in chunks. Probably as large as 10 degrees F in the normal range and wider than that at extremes. It is still by far more accurate over the range of operation than "the choke is closed when cold and opens when hot" The reason I've cited car companies is for several reasons. I have been working on them for decades and it is where I get my experience on these sensors. They have lead the way in electronic fuel injection and motorcycle injection has followed their science. They make this technical information more available than bike companies. If you don't have access to electronic manuals like Mitchell on Demand or Alldata or have technical service bulletins available as I do, go to the library and look for yourself. You may find that how stuff is designed and operates is not the same as what it means to you.

Depends on the neighborhood (or 'hood) Raz. Having the chance almost daily to study grammar from the hood, I seem to hear "are" as "is" and "is" as "be" or "go"

I see what you are saying G2G. I've been testing these types of sensors for decades and can not remember air & coolant having the same ranges ever before. They do have to both read full cold so perhaps they have the same thermistor only one is in-cased on brass and one is exposed to airflow. One thing that sticks out is on those charts is they do say "theoretical data" - Makes me wonder. I think raz is onto something when he says accurate enough. As I stated in an earlier post, some manufacturers give a 15% variance. Looking back at this lengthly thread, it appears some offer knowledge and hard numbers to substantiate theories, some offer actual experimenting and report results to substantiate theories, some offer hands on experience with these systems to substantiate theories. Others, well some others just offer argument. It is just as easy for you to grab your meter and calculator and do a comparison. What's holding you back? Like you said, 8 year olds can do it.

Sounds like fun. You're still in the midst of winter up there eh foto. I say you get crackin' and don't forget to show us pics of the control center when finished.

Foto, I remember seeing your bike at VBRII (I may even have a foto somewhere) but don't remember if you had stock exhaust. If you've made any exhaust mods a PC3 is essential.