Dan M

Only if it has Pavel's front tire...on the rear.

We sure are beating this one to death. Get used to it Pavel, that is what we do here, especially during the winter. The planets were in proper alignment for all the loss of traction gremlins to conspire. Usually there is more than one reason for traction loss. Be it an aging tire, improper pressure, heavy braking, contaminated road surface or more likely, some combination of the above. The Pav man lost front grip. A quick inspection of the mechanical players like calipers, rotors, pads, wheel and steering head bearings will either condemn or more likely rule out that stuff. As we've been leaning, I still think it was just a loss of traction.

I believe guzzimoto is saying the forks turned all the way to one side referring to the steering stop as full lock. It find it easy to accept that the original poster had this condition (fork turned to the stop) after the tire locked up. Simply a matter of the tire sliding out. I also think the tire simply lost traction for reasons other than faulty brakes. edit: oops, rocker beat me to it.

I can smell wires burning from overloaded circuits now. In order to have a brake pull you have to have two (front) wheels! So untill MG makes a three or four wheeler. A brake problem will not make it pull. It may make the wheel lock, which can result in a slide to one side or the other but it will not make it pull. If this thread go much further we'll have people not using their front brakes at all. Then what is left? Oh yea, the beloved V11 rear binder. Now there's a trouble free bit of engineering. At least some weight savings can be had with the removal of the horn because the resulting rear wheel noise will render it usless anyway. Ratch, I love your "dive assist" set up. Perhaps some drag racers can make use of it. quote:(gstallons) When you apply the rear brake (with the caliper/rotor on one side) do you notice ANY pull ? Only when I'm backing up.

This could turn into a favorite thread. Seems there is a lot speculation on how things work. I have one question. If a bike is equipped with one front disc brake and it is on the left side of the wheel, will it cause the bike to pull left when braking because the rotor is on that side or right because the caliper is pushing forward on the left side of the fork? Chew on that one for awhile.

Great find John! Thanks for posting.

Sorry kecup, didn't mean to imply you didn't know how to ride. Just trying to cover all the bases here. You were looking for answers, right?

I'm thinking tire too. My bike was 3 years old with only 900 miles on it when I bought it. The original Bridgestones slid twice when braking on a reasonably good surface. Thankfully I did not go down either time but a change to fresh Pirellis solved my problem. I don't think a brake problem would be that intermittent unless something was really wrong like a loose caliper or loose wheel bearings. Then there would be other symptoms. Look for that serial # on the sidewall. Skeeve gave you the formula for checking production date. Some manufacturers use the last 4 digits for WWYY. There is something to be said about a progressive squeeze of the front brake. Smooth application allows the weight to transfer to the front wheel which should be doing most of your brake work. A quick grab (as in a panic situation) can cause a lock up if conditions are not optimum. As Ratchet said there are many conspirators that can come into play. If everything is set up properly your chances of survival greatly increase. edit: Checking rotor temp like gstallons suggested is a good indicator of even brake pressure (side to side), the temp should be close to equal. They will get much hotter than 150F with spirited riding though.

You're mistaken John. That's pork, not beef.

Me too, that is why I can post this stuff during work hours...

Just forward it to your boss. he'll understand.

Back to a pathetic attempt to view beautiful Italian women. All the S.L. you want. http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view...;sigb=1322k19qm

Could only come up with this one. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=105106

Yes, they have a shorter wheelbase.

At least a pleasurable hijack. Sophia.... an all time favorite. There were some young topless shots of her here somewhere. Was it in the beginning of Hooters? I guess I'll take on the grueling assignment of finding them. Somebody has to do it.

They are. That is what that link was about. This is an excerpt if you didn't get through it: The USTR is re-visiting what products should and should not have a tariff because apparently it is not having the desired effect of getting the EU to comply with the court order to allow USA beef to be imported to the EU. As of today – Thursday December 4th 2008 they are open to receive comments regarding what products should have the default tariff of 100% applied, as of Monday December 8th at 5pm EST they will no longer be open to comments. At the bottom of the page is a link to the site for public submissions: http://www.regulations.gov/fdmspublic/comp...=USTR-2008-0036 After "Coffee" from the Husky site posted the notice I linked to, the public comments went from 4 pages to 24 pages in two days. Monday was the last day.

sigh... The point is, if this goes through, it will all but put dealers of Euro dirt bikes and scooters in this country out of business. Sales of bikes like KTM's off road line, Husqvarna, Aprilia's off road line, GasGas, all Euro scooters will dry up. Many dealers will be hurt. Some will not survive. I was hoping fellow European motorcycle lovers would pipe up. Guess I was mistaken.

Hey Charlie, Treat it like any other vehicle. You already know the quirks that each year has from your research here. Most any of them are easy to correct. More importantly look at the condition of the bike. Has it been cared for? Has it been abused? Are there signs of it being dropped or crashed? Is the oil clean? Does it leak any fluids? While these bikes have changed from year to year, the basic bike is pretty much the same. The pros and cons from one year to the next are trade offs. Find yourself a clean, low mileage bike and enjoy. Good luck in your search.

The claim is nonsense. The spark is going to jump to the easiest spot. It likes to hit sharp edges or points. A new NGK has a nice square bottom electrode. Plenty of edge for the spark to hit and much less mass (than the E3) on the lower electrode to block the fuel mix from the spark. The spark is a single strike from the center electrode to the lower electrode. Changing the lower electrode shape doesn't change that fact. The only thing that will make a spark larger is a larger gap for it to jump.

Stay away from the fluff. Have the stock NGKs ever given you any trouble? NGK makes a high quality plug. The stock # is the correct heat range for your bike. No telling about the snake oil brand.

This is real and disturbing. Check out this write up on a husky forum. Americans should fax in comments to the number provided. Many dealers will go tits up if this comes to pass. Read here: http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1027

This is sad but quite accurate. Oh, and I'm thinking Rosie can change tires bare handed if that helps you. There is some pretty dumb TV in the states. Can you say reality or springer or court TV? Gotta say though, that woman from Romania is stunning.

Are all oils the same?

My Spectro wholesaler used to handle them. I used / sold / installed them for several years. Never a fitment or quality problem.

Noonz, Many of us have switched to Redline Shockproof in the transmission. Makes for smoother shifting. Lubricate the shifter pivot while you are at it.